It seems that my idle is to low? Its just below 700 when the valve cover states 675. When im at an idle in park or drive, there is a steady vibrate that comes and goes about every second. One of my injectors has a slight leak, but when I hit the throttle at all the vibrate goes away. Also have a constant light cloud of grey/black at idle. Goes away with light throttle. Air filter is brand new. Could this just be my idle speed?

 

Black smoke is unburnt fuel. That injector with the leak is a problem. I would check your Injection Pump. If you have a tired injection pump it will give your engine problems at idle then it will get worse if you do not address it.

 

Grey smoke is the timing of the injectors, its off which makes the fuel not atomize correctly which causes the grey smoke out the exhaust pipe.

 

That leaking injector looks the bugger. Where exactly is the leak?
If the leak is from the metal nut on the injection line, then that's an issue I've expereinced also. If the line isn't tight, the fuel can't build enough pressure to "pop" the injector. I had the engine running, but with a slight miss at idle. But rev it up, the thing was awesome. Yep, had a loose injector line at the IP. Tighten that up, the thing runs like a champ.
I've also seen an injector that was loose in the head and had some fuel leaking at the base...flling the injector hole. Loosen the injector line with a 5/8" wrench, tighten the injector with a 1" wrench.
Of course that was with about 5 minutes run-time on the fresh return line kit so i didn't have any re-sealing issues. Try your best not to disturb your return lines too much.

 

Return line is where the leak is. Not enough of a leak to make a pool of diesel, but just enough to make it wet. My IP is original. I've just went with the saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it" for the IP. Now then again I am pretty sure my timing is off. I think I have to just bite the bullet and get new fuel system.

 

Replace the IP, and have it timed. The return lines are a known problem with these engines, get a fuel line return kit and replace them, your return lines are sucking air into the lines.

 

Ok thanks for the help, I know about which injectors/return lines are good but how about a IP? Is the auto zone one good enough? Or is there a certain place to buy from?

 

Pensacola diesel has rebuilt ones and I have heard good things about them.

 

Before you drop over $400 on an IP, run a double dose of Power Service (either white or grey bottle, don't remember which does what) through for a couple tanks.
Leaking return lines will not cause a stumble or miss. They do suck air when leaking, but it won't make the truck run rough. It'll just "open" the fuel system and lose prime, when the fuel goes back to the tanks and you have to crank, crank, crank, crank, and crank some more to get the fuel back. Or, if you're like F250HDXLT...your e-pump does it in like a split-second. Yep, his starter doesn't work overtime when reprimng the fuel system.
How many miles are on the truck and fuel system?
I'm still saying run a few tanks with additive to see if it helps. I mean it's still cheaper than a $400 IP and $200 worth of injectors and an Injector intall kit for another $30-40 give or take and another $100 to have a fuel injection shop time it for you. I say $20 worth od additive is a better start than $750-$800 for the fuel system. Oh, and those prices are just for direct replacements...no upgrade parts there.
7.3 L Ford Diesel Fuel Injectors Fuel Pumps Accessories
Luckily, this shop has a store in the next town over from me and I've used their Injection pump, 8 brand new Delphi replacement injectors, return line kits, a hard injection line, and fuel filters for my Dad's 7.3 Stroke. He hasn't needed fuel system parts yet at 170k miles, but when he does we'll get them from this fuel shop. Fabulous parts.

 

I'm thinking one of the injectors is acting up, likely opens at a lower pressure and thus adds more fuel in the cylinder than needed? Start looseing the injector lines one at a time, see if one changes the idle for better

 

the odd vibration is more than likely exhaust related. Make sure all the bolts and hangers are snug, youd be surprised at how much noise and vibration a simple loose nut can cause.

 

I will try lookin at exhaust and run the additive, then try the crack the injectors. Thanks for the ideas on how to save money!

 

i had such a bad idle with one of my exhaust setups it literally shook bolts loose on other parts of the truck, the vibration was horrible. When i rehung the exhaust on factory hangers, it completely went away. The other day my idle produced more buzz than normal and i found that one of the hangers rubber pieces had slipped off, amazing how just a bit of exhaust problem can cause so much noise.

 

My exhaust is held in to the truck in three spots only - at the engine to each of the manifolds, and at the muffler with a giant clamp that goes around the muffler and bolts to solid the frame with IIRC a 5/8" Grade-8 bolt. Truck does not have a tailpipe over the axle, exhaust ends after the muffler. I really get no funky vibrations at idle, well at least nothing that cannot be contributed to my mismatched injectors. Before that, when I still had the tailpipe connected (no muffler at the time), there was a hanger for the intermediate pipe at about the front bed crossmember, and then there was the factory tailpipe hanger at the frame out back - vibrations weren't any lesser with that setup, even tho both hangers were rubber so they didn't transfer like the steel muffler clamp does...