This is what I have written up for the procedure. Not sure if this is what you wanted, if not please say so ....

Installation:
Clean and inspect the EGR cooler supply port housing O-ring seals. Install new O-ring seals if necessary.
Lubricate the inside of the new oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose with clean engine coolant and slide it onto the EGR cooler tube far enough so it will not interfere with the installation of the EGR cooler supply port.
Make sure the dual index marks (flat edge) on the hose are facing up.
Lubricate the EGR cooler housing cover supply port O-ring seals with clean engine coolant and position the EGR cooler supply port housing cover on the engine. After positioning the EGR cooler supply port housing cover, install the 2 bolts.
NOTE: Use a commercially available Torx bit, such as Matco® BTX30B, or equivalent, and a torque adapter to tighten the EGR cooler supply port housing cover bolts. Calculate the correct torque wrench setting for the following torque. Refer to the Torque Wrench Adapter Formulas in the Appendix. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Slide the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose onto the EGR cooler housing cover (supply port) and rotate it 90 degrees (1/4-turn) until it locks in place.
Install the CAC intake pipe and tighten the clamps. Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
Fill and bleed the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.

 

I actually read that earlier. I am trying to get the supply port off. I got the covet off and can't figure out how to get it off the engine

 

Sorry - IIRC cheezit says you can stick a screwdriver through the hose and twist it and pull it off.

 

The port twist off?

 

I got it. It pops up. The big o ring holding it was kinda hard.

 

I practiced twisting the hose on that port to get a feel of what it felt like and the correct position of the hose on it. When I got mine back on, my two white marks are visible when I look down at the hose now. Put clean coolant on the o-ring on the side that goes onto the EGR cooler connection will help slide it back just far enough to put the part back on the oil cooler and slide the hose forward onto the oil cooler, then twist to lock.

 

I am batting 1000 on misreading your posts. Sorry, glad you got it.

 

Yea! It runs! How many miles / time should I put on this thing to make sure the air is out of the fuel and oil lines?

 

Some say 50 miles. Others say you should do a series of hard accelerations to 50 mph (IIRC) - say 5 or so. I know Ford has a standard procedure for it, but can't recall. If someone doesn't answer soon, I will try to find it.

Glad you got it going!!

If you have any tips to add (pointers that you wish someone had provided to you but didn't), then please post them!

 

Tomorrow I am gonna drive it like I stole It. I would like to know if there is a trick for getting the plastic intake tube back on the manifold. It was a real pain.

 

I still have the same exact problem

 

Keep in mind that it will take quite a bit of cranking at first to get the air out of the HPO system.

Did you re-do the air leak test?