Ok the truck is not mine it belongs to my company. The owner asked me to look at this before he stepped into the mechanic's shop. Im paid a salary so If I can figure this out he saves big money. Truck popped the P1316 code, I read about the UVCH. And started turning wrenchs, Got both valve covers off and installed shims and pushed the wire harness all the way up. On the Drivers side the wire harness clip was broken so I bought a whole new harness and installed with the shim. Truck runs a bit better still shakes and still has a p1316 code. I've heard the gasket can rub and need to be replaced. But that was from our very pissed off mechanic. who feels slighted about me stealing his work. Anyway IDM tests good so Im out of options other then the gasket change. Anyone found other issues for this code. Truck runs rough and shakes at about 45mph in O/D. I would like to give this one more crack myself. Maybe if I get it fixed I can ask for a raise or a bonus lol.

Thanks,
Unreal

 

Might check the harness going over the drivers side valve cover for chaffing.

 

Forgot to say the truck I'm working on is a 2001 f350 7.3

 

Is there an SES light with the shake? My shudder at 40ish was cured with injector replacement.

 

What are you using to check the codes? Can you watch perdel (rotational velocity) or run a CCT?

Does it feel more like a miss in the engine or like the truck is pretending to be a paint shaker? If you've still got the valve covers off, start the truck up (plug the 42 pin connector back in first) and watch all the injectors for oil being spit out. The injector not spitting oil the same as the others is likely your problem.

If you've got a paint shaker, ohm all the injectors and find out which one reads just a little different than the others. That would be a sign of a bad injector solenoid that caused the IDM to shut down the entire bank.

 

So will a bad injector solinoid cause the p1316? That is the only code showing. Also it feels excatully like when my 6.0 throws a injector. But there is no smoke. Like with the 6.0 injector failure. Bucks at 45-55mph only in OD. And has lower power with a small shake at lower speeds. Around 65mph you don't feel any shake just lower power.

 

Btw useing a edge insight cs for code reading.

 

Yes a bad solenoid or unplugged injector will throw that code. Usually a bad solenoid will shut down the entire bank so it's running only on 4 cylinders that are out of time. That's not what you're describing. It sounds more like you've dropped one injector.

Pull the valve covers and double check to make sure the injectors are all plugged in and there's not a short or broken wire. Watching the oil discharge from each injector should tell you which one is the problem. Once you've identified that, and if you can't find anything else wrong, pick up some Alliant or Ford injector o-rings and swap the "bad" injector with the one next to it to see if the problem stays in the same hole or follows the injector.

We can walk you through an injector swap if needed.

 

I agree with everything that Chris is saying to do. It's real easy to knock one of the electrical connectors loose on the injector solenoids when putting the valve covers back on. Of course if that was the problem then you would have an SES light on the dash.

These engines will run pretty smooth on 7 injectors but you will notice a loss of power and the engine will shake/miss when accelerating from 45-60 mph and then smooth out again. I know the thought of taking the valve covers off again sounds like a lot of trouble but it really does get pretty easy after you've done it once. If you watch the oil discharge like Chris is suggesting, that will help narrow down the possibilities.

 

SES light is on and has been on since before I opened up the valve covers.

 

Is there a way to test each injector like with a multimeter to determine which side the dead one is on? Useing the other side of the vavle cover plug? Sorry about the double postings but this phone doesn't let me edit.

 

You can check the wiring and condition of the solenoid with an ohm meter, but that will only test the electrical side of the injector.

There's a flat 9 pin connector near the inboard center of each head. Unplug that and you'll see 9 flat pins inside there. The forward two and rear two pins are for glow plugs. Ignore those. Place the black lead of your meter on the very center pin and check the resistance (ohm reading) for the 3rd, 4th, 6th, & 7th pin. Readings below 5 ohms indicate good injector wiring usually. Often times we see readings around 3.6 or so, but a reading that is just 0.5 ohms off from the others can indicate a problem with the solenoid. Consistency is the key to the readings. Write down each one and report back and we'll figure out where to go from there.