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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 08:41 PM
  #46  
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zx250
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Are you running in 4wd? If not, then you know your problem is on this side of the pump. Did you bypass the reservoir yet. still think thats your problem.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 10:57 PM
  #47  
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From: Payson, AZ
John and Pete,

Here is a PDF I put together with diagrams of the climate control vacuum system for manual A/C.

If you need something similar for the automatic climate control let me know.

Hope this helps with trouble shooting.
 
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Vacuum System Manual AC.pdf (271.4 KB, 145 views)
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 02:15 PM
  #48  
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Do know if anyone else got theirs fixed, but I fixed mine today. Turns out that valve that went to the hubs leaked. I bypassed it since I installed manual lockouts. I actually bought a hand vac pumpand checked every line and the res. all checked out.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 08:31 PM
  #49  
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My truck (1999 F250 7.3L) started doing this very thing over the weekend. I've checked a number of lines and cannot find vacuum anywhere so I'm thinking the vacuum pump has gone out. That being said, it will still shift into 4H/4L like usual. I've got the pump out, going to check the junkyard first and then go from there.

Would the ESOF still work if the pump was bad? The hubs are in auto and I can here the click with each shift into 4H from 2WD. The shift to 4L happens like usual also.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 08:46 PM
  #50  
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When yo still had it in the truck with the key turned over could you hear the pump running?
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 08:57 PM
  #51  
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redjeb
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I haven't heard the pump running in about a week but I didn't need the heater or vent since the last I heard it run. From the bat I was curious but since the ESOF worked I assumed the pump was working. I did have to replace the lines running to the hubs from the last ninety in the line as they were so dry rotted one had actually broken off (I recently bought the truck used and had been meaning to swap them).
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 09:05 PM
  #52  
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Are you positive that it is working? The light on the gauge cluster isnt something i went by before i got my warn locks. If you didnt hear it going then it is probable shot. To make sure mine engaged id get in the snow or on the ice and giverhell with my hear out the window to make sure it engaged, redneck i know
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 09:36 PM
  #53  
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I can hear the "click" and then it illuminates. It is definitely going into 4L, I can tell just by driving down the road--the lower shifts, etc. I will have to wait until tomorrow to verify the front tires will spin, I live in southern Arizona so I'm short on snow but long on sand. Plus the dash is sorta in pieces while I was chasing vacuum lines.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 09:41 PM
  #54  
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I had the same issue i could hear it go into 4L but when it came to 4H it was a different story. im betting its not working. Weve got enough snow here in Michigan you should come grab a truck bed full lol
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 07:05 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
The only thing you won't have underhood is the PHVS and related hub vac line.

Behind the glove box you will see a vacuum pot with a rod running vertically down below it. That rod moves the blend door.
Try selecting different venting options and see if rod moves.
The black pot behind the glove box dose not controll the blend door, it controlls the vent, floor and defrost position. Just to the right is a step motor (I think thats what it's called) that controlls the blend door. I know that because I could not get any heat and found the blend door was not working because the motor was shot.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 07:55 PM
  #56  
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I picked up a pump today from the local junk yard and put it in. Sure enough it fired up the minute I turned the key and started to draw a vacuum on the system. And then kept going. And going. And going. I ended up starting the truck and letting it run for a few minutes figuring maybe it was just taking a long time to draw a good vacuum on the whole system but the pump never quite stopped.

I disconnected the hose from the pump to the reservoir and sealed it with my finger and it stopped right away. I then disconnected the same hose but the end on the reservoir side and sealed it--stopped right away. When I connected the hose that comes out of the reservoir and feeds the rest of the system and sealed it with my finger the pump never shut off. I guess I have a busted reservoir too, now I have to figure out how to get it out of there so I can look it over or replace it...
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 08:37 PM
  #57  
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Im waiting for a warmer day to go threw mine, its been stupid cold here
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 09:45 PM
  #58  
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PaysonPSD
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Originally Posted by ltl_jrw
The black pot behind the glove box dose not controll the blend door, it controlls the vent, floor and defrost position. Just to the right is a step motor (I think thats what it's called) that controlls the blend door. I know that because I could not get any heat and found the blend door was not working because the motor was shot.
You're right, I screwed that up. Now I remember watching that rod move up and down as I switched from panel to floor to defrost, etc... That is quite obvious in the PDF I posted.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 09:50 PM
  #59  
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Looks like it's not the reservoir. After an hour and a half of trying to not burn myself on the drop light (I've got to get one of the new LED drop lights) I traced the leak to what I believe is called the blend door actuator (I wanted to post a picture but am failing at the upload process, it opens the recirc door under the passenger-side dash when the A/C is on max). If I take the vacuum line off of it and plug it with my finger the pump stops and does not come back on. If I connect the line to the actuator the pump runs for 22-25 seconds and shuts off, then starts again after 12-14 seconds and will just repeat this cycle. I can hear the air leaking through it when I hold it up to my ear after the pump shuts off. Tomorrow hold another trip to the junk yard I suppose...
 
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 04:59 PM
  #60  
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Thanks to the local junk yard I was able to replace the vacuum control motor for the air inlet door and that sealed up the leak. So one salvaged vacuum pump and one salvaged vaccum control motor and the system's working 4.0. If only I could get my door ajar sensors to be 100% reliable I'd be pleased...
 
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