Heater problem

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Jan 16, 2011 | 04:24 PM

#16

F250_

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From: North of Greenville

I'll try one more time... does it make sense that my situation (2wd vehicle with no 4wd ESOF equipment), that I would most likely find the problem behind the glove box?

Jan 16, 2011 | 04:26 PM

#17

JOHN2001

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From: Temperance, MI

Alright that settles it, thanks fellas, ill let you know what the turn out is

Jan 16, 2011 | 04:27 PM

#18

zx250

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From: Concord NC

Yes Pete, it does, but it also can be anywhere from the pump, reservoir, lines to and from and behind the dash.

Jan 16, 2011 | 04:30 PM

#19

PaysonPSD

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From: Payson, AZ

Quote:

Originally Posted by F250_

I'll try one more time... does it make sense that my situation (2wd vehicle with no 4wd ESOF equipment), that I would most likely find the problem behind the glove box?

The only thing you won't have underhood is the PHVS and related hub vac line.

Behind the glove box you will see a vacuum pot with a rod running vertically down below it. That rod moves the blend door.
Try selecting different venting options and see if rod moves.

Jan 16, 2011 | 04:43 PM

#20

F250_

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From: North of Greenville

Thanks, guys. I guess I have to chase this dodwn, but I'm going to start at the lines I put in with the Ranger heater valve mod... seems to be the most likely places where my problem might exist. I know that the vacuum pump is kicking on because that's always my signal to take off whenever I start the engine cold.

Jan 16, 2011 | 05:08 PM

#21

JOHN2001

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From: Temperance, MI

i disconnected the line running from my pump to the reservoir and the pump stopped and would turn on for half a second every two seconds, so it is my ESOF?

Jan 16, 2011 | 05:11 PM

#22

zx250

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From: Concord NC

Sounds like you have more than one leak or a bad pump. Unplug the line going to the soleniod right beside the pump and do the same and see what happens. Might try both at the same time and see what happens.

Jan 16, 2011 | 05:25 PM

#23

JOHN2001

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From: Temperance, MI

Tried that too the only line that makes it stop is the one running from the reservoir to the pump. It would turn back on because of a bad seal around my finger, lol.

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Jan 16, 2011 | 05:29 PM

#24

zx250

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From: Concord NC

Ok, plug it back up and move to the line coming out of the resy and see if you get the same results, if so, move on down to the next fitting and so on.

Jan 16, 2011 | 05:47 PM

#25

JOHN2001

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From: Temperance, MI

I did just this and still the same out come

Jan 16, 2011 | 05:52 PM

#26

zx250

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From: Concord NC

So, when you plugged the line coming out of the resi, the pump stopped running? if so, the leak is further down line. follow lines to next junction and check there.

Jan 16, 2011 | 07:02 PM

#27

JOHN2001

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From: Temperance, MI

I disconnected the short line off the vacuum pump running to the reservoir on the pump side and pluged it with my finger and it stopped. I went down further and no luck, i will try tomorrow when there is more light outside, thanks

Jan 17, 2011 | 03:19 PM

#28

DJMORETON

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I have an 07 6 litre diesel, had the same problem, not completely fixed but you should have constant vacuum going to the heater and pulse vac to the hubs for 4 wd. does your 4wd work ?

Jan 17, 2011 | 04:34 PM

#29

DJMORETON

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I have an 07 6 litre diesel, had the same problem, not completely fixed but you should have constant vacuum going to the heater and pulse vac to the hubs for 4 wd. does your 4wd work ?

Jan 17, 2011 | 05:19 PM

#30

JOHN2001

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From: Temperance, MI

Yes my 4WD does work, not all of the time some times i have to play with the switch and it only goes in for sure every time when the hubs are locked and not on auto. I was hoping to resolve this problem tonight but i forgot my wife has to work and she took the truck, she thinks its hers, and sticks me with a turd of a car (Caliber).

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