Alternator advice?
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Posting Guru
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DCPower guy said no fuse in that link
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
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Gear, do you think I should tack in a 175 fuse to start and if it pops go up to 200?
Like Bis mentioned I think I'm wondering why a 250 fuse would be bad if they make a 250amp alternator or this truck. Sorry if this is a dumb question.
Like Bis mentioned I think I'm wondering why a 250 fuse would be bad if they make a 250amp alternator or this truck. Sorry if this is a dumb question.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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If the alternator is only capable of 175 amps, under what circumstances would a current exceed that?
Current can flow both ways, from alternator to battery / starter solenoid, or from battery to the alternator cable.
The other circumstance is a short from the battery past the fuse, to the alternator cable.
If the fuse don't pop, you will probably have a fire.
See if it pops before you opt for 200.
When you are doing 2x factor amps, you have drastically raise the energy flow potential through the system, and with it, the risk of a fire from a short.
Current can flow both ways, from alternator to battery / starter solenoid, or from battery to the alternator cable.
The other circumstance is a short from the battery past the fuse, to the alternator cable.
If the fuse don't pop, you will probably have a fire.
See if it pops before you opt for 200.
When you are doing 2x factor amps, you have drastically raise the energy flow potential through the system, and with it, the risk of a fire from a short.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
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If the alternator is only capable of 175 amps, under what circumstances would a current exceed that?
Current can flow both ways, from alternator to battery / starter solenoid, or from battery to the alternator cable.
The other circumstance is a short from the battery past the fuse, to the alternator cable.
If the fuse don't pop, you will probably have a fire.
See if it pops before you opt for 200.
When you are doing 2x factor amps, you have drastically raise the energy flow potential through the system, and with it, the risk of a fire from a short.
Current can flow both ways, from alternator to battery / starter solenoid, or from battery to the alternator cable.
The other circumstance is a short from the battery past the fuse, to the alternator cable.
If the fuse don't pop, you will probably have a fire.
See if it pops before you opt for 200.
When you are doing 2x factor amps, you have drastically raise the energy flow potential through the system, and with it, the risk of a fire from a short.
OK, I'll run a 175 fuse I bet it'll be OK. But I'll carry a few spares and a 200 just in case. Thanks Gear
still plays with trucks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,743
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From: Twin Falls Idaho
dragging up an old thread here. I've got some questions. I'll set the stage here: 02 F550 no big stereo or any other odd loads, does have an 300 watt inverter to run the lap top if desired. Pulls a 37ft 5th wheel alot. 6 volt AGM batts in the RV, charged by 600 watts solar panels or regular converter.
my 02 F550 is eating alternators. Batteries were replaced in Feb of 2010. I replaced the first alternator on April of 2010. then Sept 2010, then March 2011, then July 2011 and now the damn Batt light is flickering again!
all of these were Napa lifetime rebuilds. even upgraded to a "better" one in March.
the output wire is evidently getting hot cause its black. I've replaced the ring end with a heavy copper lug and it still turns black. Will running another output wire help stop this? and if I do run a new output do I run a new wire to each battery? a fuse for each wire? If I run extra/upgraded ground wires do I need to run one from the alt case to both batteries? and lastly do I need to upgrade to a larger alt? something like the DC 185 or similar?
Thanks for the input
Barney
my 02 F550 is eating alternators. Batteries were replaced in Feb of 2010. I replaced the first alternator on April of 2010. then Sept 2010, then March 2011, then July 2011 and now the damn Batt light is flickering again!
all of these were Napa lifetime rebuilds. even upgraded to a "better" one in March.
the output wire is evidently getting hot cause its black. I've replaced the ring end with a heavy copper lug and it still turns black. Will running another output wire help stop this? and if I do run a new output do I run a new wire to each battery? a fuse for each wire? If I run extra/upgraded ground wires do I need to run one from the alt case to both batteries? and lastly do I need to upgrade to a larger alt? something like the DC 185 or similar?
Thanks for the input
Barney
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,072
Likes: 243
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
I just got a DCPower 190amp alt with the one wire upgrade and its been good so far only a couple weeks
but can tell its built better it also had a smaller pulley on it
heres some pics in this thread
but hol;w thread worth a read
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10773648
you may want the DCPower 250amp if you going to run alot on it
havent heard of anyone having any issues with them
and it was a direct bolt on plus no core to send so you keep your old alt as abackup
but can tell its built better it also had a smaller pulley on it
heres some pics in this thread
but hol;w thread worth a read
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10773648
you may want the DCPower 250amp if you going to run alot on it
havent heard of anyone having any issues with them
and it was a direct bolt on plus no core to send so you keep your old alt as abackup
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