for those with an intercooler...
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
I guess the idi's might run a bunch cooler. With my 97 calicode powerstroke, it's pretty easy to hit 1200 when you're making the motor work. But then again, i have my truck chipped and piped... fair enough to say that we're both right? I have my experience and apparently yours is different, which definitely happens. I actually have been thinking about getting an idi so i can learn more about them too. And i have actually load tested a diesel motor and shot the turbo with an ir temp sensor and seen the turbo housing over 1100°. So they can and do get way smoking hot when you work the motor
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Elk City, OK
If we arn't saposed to put the pyro after the turbo, how come most of the semi manufactures put it in the exhaust elbow coming out of the turbo. Oreo is right, when you are talking about 1200 degress you are on the exhaust side of the turbo, the intake side of the turbo is much cooler temps even at 20 psi of boost.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,615
Likes: 0
From: Hagerstown, Md
I guess the idi's might run a bunch cooler. With my 97 calicode powerstroke, it's pretty easy to hit 1200 when you're making the motor work. But then again, i have my truck chipped and piped... fair enough to say that we're both right? I have my experience and apparently yours is different, which definitely happens.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Just so you know,
That is a 4.0 liter straight 6 turbocharged gasoline engine on the dyno.
Glowing red, going to yellow ....more that 1200 degrees.
http://911research.wtc7.net/cache/wt...s/metcolor.htm
If I had to guess, that turbo exhaust housing looks salmon, 1500 degrees.
The center of the exhaust manifold right before the turbo exhaust inlet, looks like light yellow going toward white to me, 1900+ degrees.
In fact I would put the first couple feet of the exhaust pipe after the turbo at close to 1300 degrees.
Can you make a turbo glow on an IDI, yes it is easier than you think.
That is a 4.0 liter straight 6 turbocharged gasoline engine on the dyno.
Glowing red, going to yellow ....more that 1200 degrees.
http://911research.wtc7.net/cache/wt...s/metcolor.htm
If I had to guess, that turbo exhaust housing looks salmon, 1500 degrees.
The center of the exhaust manifold right before the turbo exhaust inlet, looks like light yellow going toward white to me, 1900+ degrees.
In fact I would put the first couple feet of the exhaust pipe after the turbo at close to 1300 degrees.
Can you make a turbo glow on an IDI, yes it is easier than you think.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,615
Likes: 0
From: Hagerstown, Md
thats right its set up kinda like the hypermax turbo for ours (i believe thats the turbo set up anyway) still never the less its less pipe the exhaust goes through and stays hotter
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
From: Bear, DE
correct me if I'm wrong, I know I don't know everything... egt's in a gas motor top out around what... 600 deg.? And judging by your sig, im guessing that 5.0 is the mustang you're talking about that's turbo'd... so you have a 302CID motor to fill with air at a boost of 13 lbs with a turbo running at about half the temp that a diesel turbo runs. So you put an ebay cooler on a motor that's 2/3 the size, that operates at half the temperature, and a little lower pressure, and that's justification to throw it in my face?
The purpose of an intercooler, my friend, is to cool the intake air that has been heated by the turbo. The intercooler has to do this efficiently or else you will have your 15 psi of boost in the pre-cooler (hot) pipe, but the boost will drop way down on the after cooler (cold) pipe side because the cooler can't effectively flow that kind of air volume. A 7.3, need I remind you, is a 444CID motor, that's alot of space to fill for that dinky turbo. It is already pushing itself pretty hard to pull 15 psi once you turn your motor up, and then you take a crap intercooler and bog it down more. So, you save a couple bucks up front in not paying for the correct cooler, push your turbo too hard ALL of the time, either A: don't have proper boost at the intake manifold, or B: aren't properly cooling the intake air, so you basically put a wet rag into your intake system in hopes that it will boost your performance.
I'm sure that a little cheap-o cooler works fine on your stang because either you bought one that was big enough to accommodate your intake flow demand, or you bought a turbo that was alot bigger than you needed and you're actually overboosting on your hot pipe to compensate for the coolers inefficiency. I am also not saying that you have to go out and buy some one off or high dollar turbonetics or ATS cooler. I do all of my projects on a budget, I'm not rich. Ask James, I showed him how to build a proper intake for like $5 to replace the one that someone else told him was a good idea, guess what, it cured his problem. I'm not trying to have someone else talk him into buying something that's going to impede his truck instead of help it. You have to consider alot of factors when you're doing something like building an intake or sizing an intercooler, or filter, or building an exhaust, or anything!! flowrates have to either match or exceed what the motor is asking for, otherwise you're just setting yourself up for failure or mediocrity. I haven't steered you wrong yet, have I J?
The purpose of an intercooler, my friend, is to cool the intake air that has been heated by the turbo. The intercooler has to do this efficiently or else you will have your 15 psi of boost in the pre-cooler (hot) pipe, but the boost will drop way down on the after cooler (cold) pipe side because the cooler can't effectively flow that kind of air volume. A 7.3, need I remind you, is a 444CID motor, that's alot of space to fill for that dinky turbo. It is already pushing itself pretty hard to pull 15 psi once you turn your motor up, and then you take a crap intercooler and bog it down more. So, you save a couple bucks up front in not paying for the correct cooler, push your turbo too hard ALL of the time, either A: don't have proper boost at the intake manifold, or B: aren't properly cooling the intake air, so you basically put a wet rag into your intake system in hopes that it will boost your performance.
I'm sure that a little cheap-o cooler works fine on your stang because either you bought one that was big enough to accommodate your intake flow demand, or you bought a turbo that was alot bigger than you needed and you're actually overboosting on your hot pipe to compensate for the coolers inefficiency. I am also not saying that you have to go out and buy some one off or high dollar turbonetics or ATS cooler. I do all of my projects on a budget, I'm not rich. Ask James, I showed him how to build a proper intake for like $5 to replace the one that someone else told him was a good idea, guess what, it cured his problem. I'm not trying to have someone else talk him into buying something that's going to impede his truck instead of help it. You have to consider alot of factors when you're doing something like building an intake or sizing an intercooler, or filter, or building an exhaust, or anything!! flowrates have to either match or exceed what the motor is asking for, otherwise you're just setting yourself up for failure or mediocrity. I haven't steered you wrong yet, have I J?
Well, this 408CI (6.7L) car runs a 101mm turbo at 20psi, made over 800whp. His intake temp's are 105 degree's at the intake before it hits the motor on a 60 degree day. Oh, his intercooler was $200 from Ebay.
YouTube - Jace 408w 101mm 2spd glide turbo mustang pumpgas dyno day
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
If we arn't saposed to put the pyro after the turbo, how come most of the semi manufactures put it in the exhaust elbow coming out of the turbo. Oreo is right, when you are talking about 1200 degress you are on the exhaust side of the turbo, the intake side of the turbo is much cooler temps even at 20 psi of boost.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
sorta the hypermax is a pulse turbocharger system in which the turbo has 2 ports on the exhaust inlet whiler the psd has one inlet at the exhaust side the uppipes are bolted to a merge pipe before the turbo
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
Just so you know,
That is a 4.0 liter straight 6 turbocharged gasoline engine on the dyno.
Glowing red, going to yellow ....more that 1200 degrees.
Metal Temperature by Color
If I had to guess, that turbo exhaust housing looks salmon, 1500 degrees.
The center of the exhaust manifold right before the turbo exhaust inlet, looks like light yellow going toward white to me, 1900+ degrees.
In fact I would put the first couple feet of the exhaust pipe after the turbo at close to 1300 degrees.
Can you make a turbo glow on an IDI, yes it is easier than you think.
That is a 4.0 liter straight 6 turbocharged gasoline engine on the dyno.
Glowing red, going to yellow ....more that 1200 degrees.
Metal Temperature by Color
If I had to guess, that turbo exhaust housing looks salmon, 1500 degrees.
The center of the exhaust manifold right before the turbo exhaust inlet, looks like light yellow going toward white to me, 1900+ degrees.
In fact I would put the first couple feet of the exhaust pipe after the turbo at close to 1300 degrees.
Can you make a turbo glow on an IDI, yes it is easier than you think.