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What's the general concensus on the largest tire size acceptable for general duty, towing, hauling, etc? 33"/285? 35"/315? Assume that gear ratio will be matched to tire size increase. Am considering aggressive all-terrain or light mud-terrain radials.
My truck has 265's now on 16" rims and 3.55 gears; but I want to increase the size to at least 285's and 4.10/4.30 ratio, which will require a very slight lift to maintain the wheel well clearance I have now.
I don't use my truck a lot, but it tows a 20-28ft boat, snowmobiles, 7x16 enclosed trailer, atv's, general duty I would say.
I have 37's now and it towed my 18ft boat fine. When I upgraded to a 26ft boat, that wasn't very fun to tow at highway speeds. I am waiting for new rims and tires to come in, going with 35's this time around.
If you are looking to maintain the E rated tires, Nitto is one of very few that make them in a 315 size.
I considered that but I have an 8 inch lift which would look funny with 33inch tires.
I plan on taking a few leaves out of the front to bring it down an inch or two, but for now it is staying at 8.
The E rated tires generally hold 65psi and thus will flex less and make for a more stable towing platform.
I run 235/85s on the front, and 285/75s on the rear to have a decent mix of cargo capacity, mileage and controllability. Wider tires up front will follow ruts and take more persistent correction to keep them in a straight line. The pizza cutters just roll with it.
I run 235/85s on the front, and 285/75s on the rear to have a decent mix of cargo capacity, mileage and controllability. Wider tires up front will follow ruts and take more persistent correction to keep them in a straight line. The pizza cutters just roll with it.
Is your tire rotation plan just left to right and vice-versa?
Tire rotations aren't 100% needed unless your vehicle has uneven wear issues. You may be able to get a few thousand more miles if you rotate, but on a dedicated hauling vehicle it's pretty pointless. The tires will typically dryrot long before the tread wears out.
I run 35's with 3.73s on my truck. It does just fine with the DP Tuner. I've towed our 5th wheel through the Rockies and all over Texas and it has never skipped a beat.
Unfortunately my truck is missing what it takes to use a tuning module....the diesel engine...ha ha. I guess I don't need bigger tires...they just look cool! I'd love to do a rev.shackle kit and 315's, but then gears would be more of a must and people would complain even more how hard it is to step into my truck!
Tire rotations aren't 100% needed unless your vehicle has uneven wear issues. You may be able to get a few thousand more miles if you rotate, but on a dedicated hauling vehicle it's pretty pointless. The tires will typically dryrot long before the tread wears out.
That's exactlly why I dont' bother with rotations on the motorhome. I replaced all 6 tires on it this year, the front ones before I left for my 11k mile 8 week trip. The old ones were dated 1996 and were badlly cracked in the tread and side wall, I still waited for them to get bald tho before replacing. And bald they were lol.
4 cheap back tires, Hercules only lasted 5 years before being bald all 4 of 'em!
I always figured that every inch of extra tire height drops your towing ability 3-5%. So those 40" swampers make a truck about half as strong as it was with stock tires. But it looks cool...
Haha they DO look cool! The way I figure it, a taller sidewall just by nature creates more flex. I drive a lot for work, and the guys I see doing any serious hauling with 3/4 or 1 ton trucks never have monsterous tires. I know there are a lot of guys that tow with 37" tires and do just fine, but to do it the RIGHT way, there's a lift, alignment, re-gear, etc...and that unfortunately is not in my budget.
Yeah I think the sidewall has a lot to do with it too. I looked at going to 20" rims and 35" E rated tires by Toyo, but they were way to expensive compared to 17" tires.
I don't get it. The outside diameter is the same, just the sidewall size is different. I would think the 20" should be cheaper because it has a smaller sidewall and therefore less rubber.
Shorter the sidewall is, thicker it must be. That`s why low pro tires are more expensive than normal tires. They use more rubber to make low profile tires than they do with normal tires.
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