Replacement Hub Assembly

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Dec 3, 2010 | 10:36 AM

#46

redford

FTE Leadership Emeritus

Joined: Sep 2000

Posts: 23,174

Likes: 1,678

From: Stephensville WI

Quote:

Originally Posted by milleroutdoors

I tried the cheap route, and after 2 weeks of "no ship" called Ed and had them the next day. Can't say enough about his customer service, his beer selection is a little weak, but he has great service.

What!?

How can that be, especially in the PNW, were you can't drive 1/2 mile without running into an espresso stand or a microbrewery?

Dec 3, 2010 | 03:11 PM

#47

kipdog

Freshman User

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 30

Likes: 0

From: effingham county

Yep it's true, $164 ebay, did not come with the attach studs though, went dealer bolts cost 30, rip off.

Dec 4, 2010 | 01:23 AM

#48

Thunderduckie

Senior User

Joined: May 2009

Posts: 116

Likes: 0

Quote:

Originally Posted by RKern

Thanks thunderduckie. You saved me from having to do the research as it is just a matter of time at 187,000 miles before I have to replace the driver's side. The warranty is noteworthy. My brother in law works for Oreilys and he said they are not carrying the more expensive one at this time. I do not know if that is true or if they are in the process of changing vendors.

Not sure where you live, but here in KC Oreilys carried the Timken bearrings for $340. I've always been told that Timken is a great product, but they only have a one year warranty. NAPA was the only place I could find that had the 3 year deal. Comes with the yellow o-ring already installed 4 studs and even new plastic clips to reattach the ABS wire to the inner fender and frame rail. It also has a thick o-ring on the outter protion of the hub that you have to remove before you can install your locking hub. It says that it comes prepacked and ready to bolt up but I went ahead and applied a good amount of high temp grease just to be safe. If you have never done your ball joints or had the hub off of the truck in those 186000 miles, get yourself a gorilla or an impact!

Dec 5, 2010 | 08:48 AM

#49

dagren99

Posting Guru

Joined: Dec 2004

Posts: 1,102

Likes: 3

From: Virginia - SW (Riner)

Bought a pair from Napa about 2 months ago - so far so good. One thing the napa guy said when I got mine: "there are 2 different mfg that napa uses for these - you can tell the difference - by looking at the finish - smooth finish = timken (made here) rough finish = ? Mfg probably mex or china = cheap" He said they are both the same price & pn but the difference in appearance is stark - he searched several local napa stores and got me 2 that looked just like the ones I took off @99k
It's been about 10k since I swapped them- only time will tell if he was right

Dec 6, 2010 | 10:59 PM

#50

SpringerPop

Hotshot

Joined: Jan 2002

Posts: 17,988

Likes: 207

From: La La Land

Quote:

Originally Posted by twags6

Timken makes the main bearing in the assembly, not the whole assembly itself.

Though I am not absolutely sure, I believe that this is incorrect.

My 515020 came in a Timken box, without a hint of some other company's machine work having been added.

Pop

Dec 7, 2010 | 08:08 AM

#51

RKern

Senior User

Joined: Jul 2004

Posts: 322

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[quote=Thunderduckie;9639589]Not sure where you live, but here in KC Oreilys carried the Timken bearrings for $340.

I live about 65 miles west of KC, however the past year we have spent a lot of time at the KUMED cancer center.

I've always been told that Timken is a great product, but they only have a one year warranty.

I have no problem with Timken what so ever and neither do many parts houses. I have brother in law that works for Oreilys in your area. I also have two uncles that own their own NAPA stores north and west of your area.

2. NAPA was the only place I could find that had the 3 year deal. Comes with the yellow o-ring already installed 4 studs.

The studs may cost $30 in todays market.

3. 186000 miles, get yourself a gorilla or an impact!

I did the ball joints already, mine were not bad but my brothers truck which spends more time feeding cattle and getting used were a bitch. We used the 3/4 drive Ingersoll on them. That was pre chemo.