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Replacement Hub Assembly

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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 08:39 AM
  #31  
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Trust me $12 is cheap insurance. The one thing I do not know if the ones from ed come with the studs and nuts. He might chime in here and let us know. Also to anybody doing this I would use the oem if you can afford to wait for the part from Seattle which is where ed is.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 08:52 AM
  #32  
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Amazon.com: Timken 515021 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly: Automotive

Installed a pair of these over the weekend. Got free shipping by signing up for their amazon prime promotion. They did come with studs and o-rings.

On a side note. For those of us without ABS sensors, how are we supposed to grease these bearings? Both these and the hubs that were on my truck did not have a hole for the sensor.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 02:15 PM
  #33  
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so some trucks didnt have abs from the factory? if so what ones?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 09:38 AM
  #34  
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here is the part number for the studs


F81Z1107AA
 
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 10:56 AM
  #35  
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As for greasing the nub bearings, I never did and mine lasted to 96000 (well at least one side, other side still going) I will have to ask my mechanic if he has ever greased them on other trucks ( I know he never did on mine, all he has to do is inspect it)
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:13 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by partsguyed.com
here is the part number for the studs


F81Z1107AA
Thanks Ed, I'll be calling in in a week or so to get the hubs and any other necessary parts. I'm also wanting to talk to you about a price on rotors. Thanks to all who responded, as always great information. I may be posting a few more questions as I get my new girl taken care of.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 09:56 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 99F-350CrewCab
Amazon.com: Timken 515021 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly: Automotive

Installed a pair of these over the weekend. Got free shipping by signing up for their amazon prime promotion. They did come with studs and o-rings.

On a side note. For those of us without ABS sensors, how are we supposed to grease these bearings? Both these and the hubs that were on my truck did not have a hole for the sensor.

If I didn't have the ABS sensor, and I needed to replace the Hubs I would order the ones with the sensor hole and spare sensors to plug up the holes.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:02 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by driximus
If I didn't have the ABS sensor, and I needed to replace the Hubs I would order the ones with the sensor hole and spare sensors to plug up the holes.
You'd have to get new rotors to do that. The abs hubs stick out a little further then the non abs ones so the rotor wouldn't be centered properly if you mixed and matched.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 12:35 AM
  #39  
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So, I took everyone's advice and bought the OE bearring which included the studs and pre-seated O-ring from NAPA for $344 plus tax. Tore the drivers side down this morning, did the swap (suprisingly easy task), put it all back together and did a test drive. The squealing sound was still there but not as bad as before. Tore down the passenger side to discover that it too was bad. I didn't have another $400 for parts so I compared the two old bearrings, found the old drivers side to be in better shape and slapped it onto the passenger side. No more sqeaul but I know it's just a matter of time. When I spin the wheel I can here the flattend needle bearrings dropping in the bearring race.
Something else I discovered was that the passenger side locking hub has a very slight but noticeable drag when spun. I looked in the forums but missed anything about rebuilding versus replacing the locking hubs. Anyone got any info on that?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 09:52 AM
  #40  
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I ordered a Timken hub/bearing from Rock Auto It was about $225 shipped(ABS hubs), came with the studs, o-ring and was a lot cheaper than the $370+ from a local auto parts store. Took about 3 days to show up on my doorstep.
Not sure what the difference is between the Timken and OEM, but for me the cost savings alone was worth it.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 08:17 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Ford79
I ordered a Timken hub/bearing from Rock Auto It was about $225 shipped(ABS hubs), came with the studs, o-ring and was a lot cheaper than the $370+ from a local auto parts store. Took about 3 days to show up on my doorstep.
Not sure what the difference is between the Timken and OEM, but for me the cost savings alone was worth it.
I used the OEM bearring from NAPA for 2 reasons; quality and warranty. The Timken bearrings in my area are a little more than $380 and carry only a one year warranty. The OEM from NAPA was $340 and has a 3 year warranty. Do these warranties vary from state to state? Just curious.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:46 PM
  #42  
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I am just curious. You were able to get OEM from Napa? The reason I ask is if this is possible I had no idea. Hub bearing assemblies, water pumps, and to some degree starters seem to be better if they are OEM, which I thought was only available from Ford or binder. Binder is an antiquated farmers term for International Harvester.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 05:27 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by RKern
I am just curious. You were able to get OEM from Napa? The reason I ask is if this is possible I had no idea. Hub bearing assemblies, water pumps, and to some degree starters seem to be better if they are OEM, which I thought was only available from Ford or binder. Binder is an antiquated farmers term for International Harvester.
I mis-spoke when I used the term OEM. When I asked the guy at NAPA he told me that it was in fact an OEM bearring. I did some research today in my spare time and found that the bearring is NOT an OEM bearring but that NAPA considers it to be because of the high standars in manufacturing. It also carries a better warranty than the part from Ford.
Here's a link to the part.

Store Locator | NAPA Online
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 09:38 AM
  #44  
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just replaced mine, went the cheap ebay route (2) hubs for $164. Seemed to be heavy duty with 8 lug studs no front abs 99 f250 v10. It was pretty straight fwd inner nuts are a little tight but nothing a breaker bar would not solve.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 10:20 AM
  #45  
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Thanks thunderduckie. You saved me from having to do the research as it is just a matter of time at 187,000 miles before I have to replace the driver's side. The warranty is noteworthy. My brother in law works for Oreilys and he said they are not carrying the more expensive one at this time. I do not know if that is true or if they are in the process of changing vendors.
 
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