Reccomendations for an engine brake?
I am of the opinion that the "engine brake" in just a way more refined transmission shifting program for the tow haul mode. All I can tell is I have to lock out every gear down to 2nd or 1st and let the truck rpm away.
I am in tow haul mode but I just don't seem to get any noticeable help from the " engine brake".
I have a couple hundred thousand miles driving around with a manually activated exhaust brake (or turbo brake if you prefer) and when you turned that thing on you could feel it and hear it and no doubt at all about what was going on. You could modulate your speed by engaging and disengaging as you rolled down a hill. I used it all the time even in the city whenever I was slowing down.
Which brings me back to this one. I drive 100 miles everyday over a mountain so I get a lot practice time on it and in 3500 miles I think I still need more practice because I'm pretty sure I only got it to engage about a handful of times when I wanted it to.
I've tried different durations of "taps" on the brakes. I've tried harder and softer taps. The bottom line is that I still haven't found the recipe to get that thing to come on when I want it to come on and to let go when I want it to let go.
A button is in order here, IMO. Then this truck would be perfect. Well that and and a DEF gauge and a bottle holder in the door.
The power control modules are manipulating the turbo vanes, the transmission shift program and, by nature of being in the tow/haul mode keeping the converter locked. With out a locked converter the braking is much less effective. And elevated engine speed is going to be normal.
A true exhaust brake works by "blocking" off the exhaust - no exhaust out - engine has to slow down
A "jake brake" works by opening the exhaust valves near the top of the up stroke. This effectively is using the engine up stroke for slowing but by releasing the pressure at the top of the stroke the compressed air is not acting like a spring forcing the piston back down,
A Telma retarder works using stators, rotors and electricity and no friction, a frictionless slowing system.
Of the 4 types here the factory system uses equipment already on the vehicle, just using a modified turbo and programming.
Of the 4 the Telma's work the best overall, IMO.
I would take a Telma equipped vehicle over any other braking system.
I drive a 70k+ pound ladder truck for my job and that truck stops better then any of the engines at half the weight.
Obviously haven't had the opportunity to try one yet (2011 Ford), but in my 06 GMC with just "cruise grade braking" the system worked fairly well with my 18K trailer.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Banks makes two versions of exhaust brakes, a true in the exhaust system brake and a computer controlled brake, which manipulates the turbo, trans etc.
I had one on my GMC. I also had a lot of problems with it and ended up removing it. But - when it was working it worked extremely well, and the braking level is user controlled, either by the amount of force or speed limiting.
You can set it for say 45 mph on a 10-12% grade hill and the truck would not go over 45!
The system had warning such as in level 3 the braking can be harsh without a trailer load. Harsh - is correct, without a trailer, at max braking , it would actually chirp the tires trying to slow down, and you better not have a loose cup of coffee

So if Banks comes out with programming for the 2011's there would be your option of user controlled braking.
I have a couple hundred thousand miles driving around with a manually activated exhaust brake (or turbo brake if you prefer) and when you turned that thing on you could feel it and hear it and no doubt at all about what was going on. You could modulate your speed by engaging and disengaging as you rolled down a hill. I used it all the time even in the city whenever I was slowing down.
Which brings me back to this one. I drive 100 miles everyday over a mountain so I get a lot practice time on it and in 3500 miles I think I still need more practice because I'm pretty sure I only got it to engage about a handful of times when I wanted it to.
A button is in order here, IMO. Then this truck would be perfect. Well that and and a DEF gauge and a bottle holder in the door.
That is my exact same problem. I to have had pickup with a flapper style exhaust brake and let me tell you there is a HUGE difference in that style vs the one on the 6.7. But I will say over my 6.4 the tow haul mode is 1000% better.
No matter what combo I try nothing happens. I am better off most of the time ram rodding the shifter into first or second depending on the type of load I have on. very very rare that there is nothing lower than 6500 lbs, most of the time lots more.
I can tap the brakes all I want nothing happens except maybe downshifting a gear, but as soon as it gets a chance it up shifts again. So as a result I have learned to either lock out all the upper gears from 2nd up or just go to manual mode and let her wing.
I've tried different durations of "taps" on the brakes. I've tried harder and softer taps. The bottom line is that I still haven't found the recipe to get that thing to come on when I want it to come on and to let go when I want it to let go.
For those that seem to have a functioning "engine brake" don't get peeved at those of us who can't get it to work. What type of grades are you seeing it work on? As for me I see nothing from 6% up, most all of my towing involves 6% or higher and Teton Pass in Jackson Wy is 10% for a few miles.








