rotella T SAE30 has the ZDDP package already in it, and is recommended by melling for engine break in oil.

we usually do the cam break in, then change the oil...drive 100 miles and change again...just to wash anything out of the motor that might have worked its way in ther in the garage (after all we dont build them in "clean" rooms). Also with a flat tappet cam there will be some metal shavings from things getting wore in.

 

Ford 6 cylinder inline engines Cylinder head bolts / fasteners

 

I have heard that for 2010 zinc has been removed from all oils, but I have not been able to confirm this, so for peace of mind I am using the supplements.

 

That is it. It just pushes into the keyway in the end of the cam and holds the cam gear in place. Without that the came gear would just spin freely on the end on the camshaft. I imagine it is a pretty common piece you could find but I am not totally sure one that! But by doing that it would save you the hassel of trying to get that fiber gear off if you do have one and avoiding possibly breaking the thrust plate!

 

Wow Jim! That sight's got it all in this department. That almost needs to be made a sticky.

Thank you for posting that.

Headbolts, oilpan bolts, cam bolts, woodruff keys...
That should help a lot.

About $25 to have fresh parts and not have to worry about pulling that fiber gear off.

 

Would someone be able to tell me the difference between these two? And if I need the more expensive one?

Fel-Pro TCS45044 - Timing Cover Gasket Set 1981 Ford Bronco | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Fel-Pro TCS45278 - Timing Cover Gasket Set 1981 Ford Bronco | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

The cheap one should work just fine if you have your own RTV for the corners.
There is one more piece the stock cam had inside the thrust plate, and that's a small spacer/washer thing. It's not critical, it just allows them to press everything together in one shot with a press rather than a bolt. If you just press the hub of the timing gear flush with the end of the cam, that is where it needs to be. Any tighter and you will not have enough clearance to the thrust plate and it will cause issues.

 

Sorry, but I have to disagree with Fordsix. I also buy the more expensive one. The only difference is the one ring and tube of sealant. The ring in the photo is actually a sleeve that slips over the back of the v. dampener to create a tighter seal for a v. dampener with untold miles on it. It is a cheap insurance policy. Use it. Grease BOTH side of the seal before inserting v.d. Apply sealant/silicone to keeper channel AND crank where v.d. slides on.

I don't remember is you have pre 84 block. If you do, then you have to use v.d. to hold cover centered on crank. It is a major pain. Or maybe my cover is warped or something. I hope you have the post 84 with the pin guides.

The ring behind the cam gear: pay attention to which side faces the block. One edge is beveled, and faces the block, IIRC. Check your manual.

Any machine shop should have access to a set of cam bearings if you can't get them at the local a.parts, or Summit. Omg, have you ever seen a set of King bearings? Next time I'm using them. They are shiny like polished aluminum! So they must be good, right?

 

Since you've got all the hard parts out, why not upgrade to the one piece rubber gasket? It's just a oilpan grind and an engine jack up away....
Seriously-consider it if you haven't done it already. Nothing worse than getting it buttoned up and having it leak.

 

Just found, downloaded, and printed Comp's online instruction booklet for installing cams. It's about 12 pages long and is quite in depth. Plus, about every other page it says 'any doubts or questions, call!' I like that.

I think I'll go with the timing cover kit that comes with the extra pieces. If it's there for a reason, I might as well put it in while I have it all apart. Is it something that goes on before I put the timing gear on?

Last time I looked, I believe the casting numbers for my block said it was a '76. I imagine that's when it was last 'updated', not necessarily when it was made. So, it most likely will be a pain just like yours. I remember reading your frustrations on that.

Lastly, I think getting a one piece oil pan gasket would be a great idea. Problem at the moment is just money. The gasket's about $20 - $25, and if I had it off that far, I'd want to put an oil pump on it, which is about $50 since I think I'd want to go with the higher volume, and the extra $70ish would put the project back a month or so longer into the cold of winter. BTDT I'm thinking I'll fully tackle that in the summer when I pull the head for a P&P. A fantastic idea though, because even though I've changed it twice, that 4 piece gasket has never fully kept it from leaking.

 

I think I'll go with the timing cover kit that comes with the extra pieces. If it's there for a reason, I might as well put it in while I have it all apart. Is it something that goes on before I put the timing gear on?Nope, the only difference between the two kits is the sleeve that goes on the back of the v. dampener which slides into the t. cover oil seal. Untold miles of a seal riding in the same spot can create an imperceptible groove. The sleeve eliminates the groove.

Last time I looked, I believe the casting numbers for my block said it was a '76. I imagine that's when it was last 'updated', not necessarily when it was made. So, it most likely will be a pain just like yours. I remember reading your frustrations on that.Maybe it is just a prob. with my cover. Hopefully yours won't be that troublesome.

 

Okay, I have all the preliminary parts on hand, so I'm going to put the camshaft together.

I have the cam, spacer, thrust plate, and the cam gear.

So, three questions. Since the engine's all buttoned up right now, I can't go look at it.

Which direction does the cam gear face? How do I tell which side goes towards the engine?

Which direction does the spacer face? One side of the spacer is tapered and the other is flat. My manual doesn't even mention the spacer, let alone which direction it faces.

The spacer goes inside the thrust plate. But the hole in the thrust plate is noticeably larger than the spacer so there's a gap. Is it supposed to be snug? Or is there supposed to be a gap? It seems the spacer would just kinda spin freely in there and not really do much... Is this right?


Thanks all.

 

I went to the garage to ck my cam, but didn't want to pull it to find out.

The only thing I can tell you for certain is that there is a timing mark on the outside of the cam gear.

Even though I heated my gear, I still needed to put it on with a press. If you have it done at a machine shop, don't rely on their know how to do it right. Find out yourself and ck their work. It is cheaper that way. I expect enough photos to make me feel like I'm getting greasy!

Turbo is next, ha ha. Good luck.

Starting Monday, I'm doing my disc conversion in the rear Dana 60. The master is leaking, brakes pulling, so I guess it's about time. I'll probably be doing some creative fab. work for the ebrake cables, since I have to mount the calipers one in front, and one behind the axle.

 

Here's some pics of the parts I've collected so far:

Cam:



Thrust plate + engine finishing kit. From the link supplied by JimsRebel. Thrust plate, thrust plate bolts, spacer, cam woodruff key.



Timing Gear Kit:



Valve seals, umbrella seals, new lifters, and springs!



Here's the cam, spacer, thrust plate setup:







There's also some pics of the space around the spacer and thrust plate I asked about above. The other thing about it is it doesn't really look like the spacer does anything. It's not thick enough to press against anything. Does it, by chance, go on the end of the cam outside of the gear after its pressed on?

 

So you're not gonna pull your engine apart to check for me? Man, that hurts deep...

That sounds like an awesome brake upgrade! I'd love to do that someday. That should make a huge difference. The E-Brake does sound like it'll be a challenge. (Be sure to take pics!)



Also, that answers my question on the gears. The timing marks obviously face out so you can see them after they're installed... Good thinking.