I have an old Holley 600 on my 360 in the AMC Javelin and when I had it running, not on the road yet, it ran great.
To tell you how old it is it uses a heat tube from the intake cross over to heat and open the choke, I see yours is electric.
I don't have a good picture of mine at this time.
Dave ----

 

This carb was a hot air choke. So was my parts carb. All that is needed to convert to electric is an electric thermostat cap and either run filtered air to the old hot air port or plug it. I put a vacuum cap on that port for now. The choke works great. The motorcraft 7 volt cap works fantastic hooked to the grey wire off the alternator. No setting notch so you gotta experiment. I made my own adjustment mark once I got it where I wanted it.

 

If I was to run the electric cap I would need to find power under the hood of my Javelin and run an un-sightly wire and that is not going to happen on this car.
Besides the hot air choke works great and looks cool on this car with the old school after market intake.
Dave ----

 

I finally converted my truck's dead ammeter to a voltmeter, as detailed here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...olt-meter.html

I wired mine a little bit differently. I tapped into the switched 12V source for the tach, and used the ground for the panel lights. This is at the big connector that plugs into the back of the instrument panel. I capped and stowed the existing ammeter wires where they previously connected to the shunt between the alternator and battery.

Wow, I wish I had done this years ago. I had an aftermarket gauge under the dash, and although it worked well, I always hated the appearance.

Source for the new gauge, part # F10080V. This uses a stock gauge face, with the guts replaced with a voltmeter movement:

Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations

Here's an installed view, with the gauge finally showing useful information after 20+ years. In this picture, the needle is showing approximately 13.5V:




I also repainted all of the gauge needles, as they had faded quite a bit. I used Testors 79625 Fluorescent Orange spray paint and am pleased with the appearance:

 

I looked at pictures of it and shopped for parts because I’ve been out of town for work since January.

 

Yesterday I picked up the bypass valve, hose clamps & vacuum hose and today installed the valve but not with out issues.
The way I was going to tie it into the control panel but I have a newer control so had to drop back and punt.
The valve will only bypass when on AC MAX and that is ok.

Also found there was not enough vacuum to over come the spring in the valve that is use to retune it back to normal.
Had to take the vacuum part apart and cut the spring so it will (should) work. Had to take it apart twice as it did not seal the first time.

Looked into why the oil gauge stopped working, think the new sender went bad.
I also looked into the low reading of the temp gauge and also think the sender is bad and will be replaced.

I think I found the rattle I had from under the truck, lower right front shock bolt / nut was loose.
If that is all after a full truck rebuild that's not bad in my book.
Dave ----

 

Was at walmart yesterday and bought some better floor mats for the truck. They fit well and are heavy. I also purchased a deluxe Marti report and found out my truck was 1 of 124 with my paint and trim combo. No wonder I don't see many that look like mine.

 

Yesterday, I cleaned and scrubbed,& scrubbed & scrubbed my scrounged door sill plate along with my original passenger side one! Today I will do more scrubbing and try my best to finish blowing out the Marvel Mystery I put in all cylinders about 6 months ago. I tried to start it with it in and it finally started with a loud backfire out the exhaust and died. I had read you should take out plugs and blow out Marvel b4 starting but was lazy. Now I have all plugs out and cleaned and will hopefully finish. I HAVE 2 GET MORE DONE.......WISH ME LUCK.........

 

FordFETruck- My old mats are surprisingly heavy.......

 

Ive been using my slow time at work to work on designing my updated auxiliary fuse box wiring.

Finding out what gauge wire I should run for what amperage. I was looking at running 14ga wire from the low beam headlight fuse to each low beam circuit at the headlight. Then I realize that I am using amperage figured from wattage of both bulbs added together. Found out I could get by with 20ga wire actually but will be running 16ga or 18ga wire instead for a little extra padding.

Only draw back is if I want to supply a single power wire to my auxiliary fuse box capable of handling 60 amps of total power to allow for future expansions, I would need to run a 6ga or 8ga wire. Id probably use a battery cable in this gauge but it seriously has me questioning hook up to the spade terminal buss bar which is set up for no more than 10ga or 12ga. Im also a little concerned about EM from this large of wire running across the intake manifold with the coil wires and DSII wiring to the fusebox on the driverside. Im concerned about EM effecting not just my ignition but also the Sniper Stealth EFI with the built in ECU on the passengerside of the throttle body.

Might have to run this wire like I currently have it ran by running it across the core support which I never liked.

 

I almost had it running couple weeks ago. did not fill fuel bowl and back-fired and blah blah , got frustrated because I have no linkage connected to my swapped in Holley 2300.
SOOO 2Day I got determined and reinstalled my plugs, and re-routed my ground cable, remote started engine to clear out any Marvel Mystery oil in cylinders and after an hour of searching found tube to fill fuel bowl, wired choke open and Wala VVVVRRROOMMMMMM. It started right away.loud to fast so I shut it off. This happened several times. Idelling much to fast . Then I luckly remembered I had put a spring on carb linkage to give it gas 2 weeks earlier is why it was running so fast. Took spring loose and runs like champ, Headers roar perfect with straight pipes.......then later I see mucho oil underneath.......
I almost went under to look but too late after a long day.........because I pray it is from my speedometer cable not connected. I am a novice mechanic, will oil leak from unhooked speedo cable or did I blow up my enging or blow a seal??????

 

Been reading up on 3G alternator regulators trying to find a soft start regulator to swap into what ever 95A 3G alternator I pick up.

Problem is though I have two different part numbers and not sure which one would be better.

First is the F4ZU-10316-AC which the only information I found on this white 3G regulator is that its a 2 second soft start.

Second is the F5RZ-10316-A which the only information I found on this white 3G regulator is that its a 10 second soft start.

No mention of which one is for 95A and which one for 130A if they are even different ratings. For all I know both could be the same rating.

Would start a post with this but there is so much back and forth when it comes to 3G its hard to get straight answers as there are so much variance.

 

oh hey a tachometer. Wish my grandads truck had one

 

What year is the truck?

Cause I know 82 - 86 I think 81 is included but I want to say 80-81 the wiring was different. But you can pick up a cluster off ebay with tach and it will plug in and work off the bat. That's what I did with my '82 as I got tired of the sunpro tach clamped to the plastic collar on my column that always shifted and moved.

Was the best mod I ever did on the truck to now. 3G alternator I am working on now will be the third best mod after my 306 build which is my 2nd best mod.

 

mine is an 84. What's the deal with the 3g alternator? I hear alot of people talk about it