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My father bought a house here and he's moving out this way in the beginning of July. He's selling his old South Bend lathe and will be buying another lathe when he gets settled in here.
What keeps the caps on? Just the o-rings. Is that all that keeps the plastic ones on, just the o-rings? Need to do mine and haven't got into it yet. Help needed.
and if you get vitons you can use the old nitrile ones and put one each on top of the injectors, install the line nuts and it will squeeze them down and they stay put., thats why i have vitons always.
We are in prototype development for the 7.3L IDI caps now. This includes turbo.
I found it interesting, the 7.3 caps have a larger diameter hole in the barbs, BUT the 90 degree bends have a small hole (identical size as 6.9L) penetrating the barrel and dumping into a larger size hole in the barbs! The straight through has a quirky elliptical hole that nets smaller than the barb as well!
I'm getting my hands on an old injector to do a section cut and ensure the hole through the barrel isn't on an oring. Dad is machining the larger barbs now - FINALLY bought all new machines. Barrels are machined, just waiting for hole location confirmation. Then it's time to solder.
I've run my brass caps since the day I installed them and still zero leaks. I haven't replaced the orings. And for the hell of it, I turned all of them multiple times to mimic bumping them while wrenching. Didn't cause a leak.
Sorry about the poor quality Samsung P&S pics... The caps turned out quite well. Revision 1.0 is a material change to brass. After I showed him the last round of backyard TIG welding, my dad decided to change materials and silver solder them himself. I couldn't get the flux off with the non-abrasive scotch brite pads I have.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.