New 6.0L owners - tips to prevent comon problems
#1
02-10-2008, 09:36 PM
New 6.0L owners - tips to prevent common problems
This will be a series of 4 or 5 posts that list common problems w/ the 6.0's and will then list some tips that MANY GRACIOUS and KNOWLEDGEABLE people here have contributed over the past few years. For the most part, I have just been a scribe, but it has involved quite a bit of research. Some tips are controversial as to whether or not they make a SIGNIFICANT improvement, but the advice is all good I believe.
Much is common sense and known to most folks, but I tried to get as much all in one place as possible.
I encourage feedback and discussion, but want to keep it positive in an effort for alll new 6.0 owners to have the best chance for success.
Please wait till the last one is posted (I will label it as the "LAST"), and then let the discussion fly!!!
Common problems discussed in upcoming posts:
1. EGR systems
2. Turbos sticking
3. Injectors
4. Head gaskets
5. Miscellaneous
Much is common sense and known to most folks, but I tried to get as much all in one place as possible.
I encourage feedback and discussion, but want to keep it positive in an effort for alll new 6.0 owners to have the best chance for success.
Please wait till the last one is posted (I will label it as the "LAST"), and then let the discussion fly!!!
Common problems discussed in upcoming posts:
1. EGR systems
2. Turbos sticking
3. Injectors
4. Head gaskets
5. Miscellaneous
Last edited by Maxium4x4; 02-11-2008 at 03:41 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by bismic:
#2
02-10-2008, 09:41 PM
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (w/ probable causes):
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h...l/Page_07.html
1. EGR SYSTEMS
Prevent EGR Plugging/Sticking:
Use good quality fuel and occasionally "drive it like you stole it", but do not accelerate hard until the engine is fully warmed up!
Minimize extended idling - especially at rpm's under 1200.
Synthetic oil and fuel additives may help prevent soot which can deposit on your turbo (exhaust side).
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-01.php
Resolve EGR Plugging/Sticking:
Delete it: Do it properly by blocking off flow entirely to EGR valve and cooler.
Some 2005 and up vehicles will throw a code that can only be cleared w/ a tuner.
Disconnect it:
If you just disconnect it, do it properly. Even if it is disconnected, pressures can force it open.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...tructions.html
Clean it - Use Carb cleaner, not brake cleaner - keep the fluid out of the weep holes.
New o-ring. Clean EBP tube, MAP sensor hose & manifold opening.
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-15.php
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-06-12.php
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...egr-valve.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...connect-2.html
Replace it "in kind", but with an upgraded EGR cooler from BulletProofDiesel!
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h...l/Page_07.html
1. EGR SYSTEMS
Prevent EGR Plugging/Sticking:
Use good quality fuel and occasionally "drive it like you stole it", but do not accelerate hard until the engine is fully warmed up!
Minimize extended idling - especially at rpm's under 1200.
Synthetic oil and fuel additives may help prevent soot which can deposit on your turbo (exhaust side).
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-01.php
Resolve EGR Plugging/Sticking:
Delete it: Do it properly by blocking off flow entirely to EGR valve and cooler.
Some 2005 and up vehicles will throw a code that can only be cleared w/ a tuner.
Disconnect it:
If you just disconnect it, do it properly. Even if it is disconnected, pressures can force it open.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...tructions.html
Clean it - Use Carb cleaner, not brake cleaner - keep the fluid out of the weep holes.
New o-ring. Clean EBP tube, MAP sensor hose & manifold opening.
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-15.php
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-06-12.php
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...egr-valve.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...connect-2.html
Replace it "in kind", but with an upgraded EGR cooler from BulletProofDiesel!
#3
02-10-2008, 09:45 PM
2. Turbo sticking
Prevent Turbo Failure:
Stay with your stock Donaldson air filter setup. No need for more unless heavily modded (500hp). Many (most?) after market filters do not filter as well as the stock system.
Use a synthetic 5W40 oil, change at 7500 miles - high temperature resistance.
After towing or running hard, idle for 5 minutes or so. Best to idle until POST-turbo EGT drops to 400.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...urbo+cool+down
Synthetic oil and fuel additives can help prevent soot which can deposit on your turbo (exhaust side)
Get the most recent flash (it eliminates EGR operation at extended idle).
Open up the exhaust to drop your EGT's
Occasionally "drive like you stole it" - this can help prevent turbo sticking as well as help with the egr valve. That said, do not do hard accelerations unless the engine is FULLY warmed up!
Reroute your Crankcase Ventilation
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...rerouting.html
Keep your EGR functioning OR delete it (do it properly by blocking off flow entirely to EGR valve and cooler). Some 2005 and up vehicles will throw a code that can only be cleared w/ a tuner w/ disconnected EGR valve.
Resolve Turbo Problems:
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-06-05.php
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ing-turbo.html
VGT or PCM troubleshooting when having a turbo problem DTC P0046 (post 10 in link below)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-low-rpms.html
Prevent Turbo Failure:
Stay with your stock Donaldson air filter setup. No need for more unless heavily modded (500hp). Many (most?) after market filters do not filter as well as the stock system.
Use a synthetic 5W40 oil, change at 7500 miles - high temperature resistance.
After towing or running hard, idle for 5 minutes or so. Best to idle until POST-turbo EGT drops to 400.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...urbo+cool+down
Synthetic oil and fuel additives can help prevent soot which can deposit on your turbo (exhaust side)
Get the most recent flash (it eliminates EGR operation at extended idle).
Open up the exhaust to drop your EGT's
Occasionally "drive like you stole it" - this can help prevent turbo sticking as well as help with the egr valve. That said, do not do hard accelerations unless the engine is FULLY warmed up!
Reroute your Crankcase Ventilation
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...rerouting.html
Keep your EGR functioning OR delete it (do it properly by blocking off flow entirely to EGR valve and cooler). Some 2005 and up vehicles will throw a code that can only be cleared w/ a tuner w/ disconnected EGR valve.
Resolve Turbo Problems:
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-06-05.php
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ing-turbo.html
VGT or PCM troubleshooting when having a turbo problem DTC P0046 (post 10 in link below)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-low-rpms.html
Last edited by bismic; 02-10-2008 at 10:20 PM.
#4
02-10-2008, 09:47 PM
3. Injectors
HELP Prevent Injector Stiction (oil side):
Change oil at 5,000 miles, use OEM style filers
Use 5w40 synthetic oil, or a good 10W30 oil even.
Oil temp gauge - alarm at 215 degrees
Most recent flash
Resolve Injector Stiction (oil side):
Archoil 9100, Rev X, Hot Shot's Secret Oil Additive
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...light=Hot+Shot
Increase Injector Life:
Change fuel filter at 10,000 miles, use OEM filters
Good quality fuel - purchase at high volume stations
After filter change, remove air from fuel system before starting: 3 cycles of (ignition on for 3 sec, ignition off for 15 sec). Then ignition off for 3 seconds and START.
Find a good additive for lubricity and in event of getting bad fuel (w/ water, low cetane, additives not added, etc).
According to the manual - use an additive when suspect fuel quality problems : non alcohol, water demulsifier
Do not run your tank empty (below 45 psig fuel pressure ruins injectors)
Install a fuel pressure gauge with an alarm point you can set. Stop if it drops below 45 psig. Low fuel pressure is a COMMON way to damage expensive injectors!
Biodiesel is a great lubricity additive, just remember it can gel. Use an antigel additive, especially in winter
Mods -- Updated regulator spring. If tuned, consider ITP Return Regulated Fuel System, FASS System - pressure control, air removal
Resolve Injector Failure:
Replace them yourself
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4355612
http://www.FTEs diesel forums.com/forums/f50/injector-replacement-pictures-172748/
HELP Prevent Injector Stiction (oil side):
Change oil at 5,000 miles, use OEM style filers
Use 5w40 synthetic oil, or a good 10W30 oil even.
Oil temp gauge - alarm at 215 degrees
Most recent flash
Resolve Injector Stiction (oil side):
Archoil 9100, Rev X, Hot Shot's Secret Oil Additive
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...light=Hot+Shot
Increase Injector Life:
Change fuel filter at 10,000 miles, use OEM filters
Good quality fuel - purchase at high volume stations
After filter change, remove air from fuel system before starting: 3 cycles of (ignition on for 3 sec, ignition off for 15 sec). Then ignition off for 3 seconds and START.
Find a good additive for lubricity and in event of getting bad fuel (w/ water, low cetane, additives not added, etc).
According to the manual - use an additive when suspect fuel quality problems : non alcohol, water demulsifier
Do not run your tank empty (below 45 psig fuel pressure ruins injectors)
Install a fuel pressure gauge with an alarm point you can set. Stop if it drops below 45 psig. Low fuel pressure is a COMMON way to damage expensive injectors!
Biodiesel is a great lubricity additive, just remember it can gel. Use an antigel additive, especially in winter
Mods -- Updated regulator spring. If tuned, consider ITP Return Regulated Fuel System, FASS System - pressure control, air removal
Resolve Injector Failure:
Replace them yourself
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4355612
http://www.FTEs diesel forums.com/forums/f50/injector-replacement-pictures-172748/
Last edited by bismic; 02-10-2008 at 10:27 PM.
#5
02-10-2008, 09:50 PM
4. Head Gaskets (weak in this area - all suggestions welcome)
Minimize Potential for Head Gasket Problems:
Keep turbo system clean and healthy
Install gauges and alarm at 28 - 30 psi boost (if not running a tuner)
Properly programmed custom tuner can help keep cylinder pressures down and improve reliability in head gaskets.
Let coolant temp and/or oil temp get to operating temp before you start to rag on the truck otherwise you run the risk of stretching the headbolts
Do not run at elevated temperatures. IMO max ECT is around 205-210, and max EOT is 215-220.
Watch for ANY sign of a plugging oil cooler.
EC-1 rated ELC coolant is a MUST - IMO!
Use a good quality oil.
Watch for ANY sign of fuel dilution of the oil.
Minimize Potential for Head Gasket Problems:
Keep turbo system clean and healthy
Install gauges and alarm at 28 - 30 psi boost (if not running a tuner)
Properly programmed custom tuner can help keep cylinder pressures down and improve reliability in head gaskets.
Let coolant temp and/or oil temp get to operating temp before you start to rag on the truck otherwise you run the risk of stretching the headbolts
Do not run at elevated temperatures. IMO max ECT is around 205-210, and max EOT is 215-220.
Watch for ANY sign of a plugging oil cooler.
EC-1 rated ELC coolant is a MUST - IMO!
Use a good quality oil.
Watch for ANY sign of fuel dilution of the oil.
Last edited by bismic; 02-10-2008 at 10:50 PM.
#6
02-10-2008, 09:55 PM
5. Miscellaneous (1 of 2)
Sensors, Miscellanous, things that have a failure history (and some upgrade suggestions when they fail)
HPOP - International makes a STC fitting "delete": http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-07-08.php
International Part Number is 1879930c91 Note HPOP is driven by the camshaft.
IPR Valve installed on top of the HPOP. The solenoid and connector are on top of the HPOP cover plate (behind and to the left of the oil filter).
ICP (has had pig tail and connector failures). Failure will cause truck not to run, or SURGING.
Regulator and connector are center of engine (top of the block), on the HPOP cover plate (between the heads). ICP (has had pig tail and connector failures). Failure will cause truck not to run, or SURGING.Regulator and connector are center of engine (top of the block), on the HPOP cover plate (between the heads).
Injector inlet O-ring leaks
PCM (has has wire chafing and plug issues) - drivers side fender behind the battery.
FICM (has had wire chafing and plug issues) - drivers side valve cover
EBP (or EP) - Drivers side of engine beside the oil dipstick where it makes its bend towards horizontal. Note: 03- EARLY 04 EBP control was disabled in the programming (eliminated in '06 assuming the updated flash was applied).
Check MAP, Baro, and EBP sensors regularly at KOEO and they should be within a half psi of each other.
Check all temperature sensors first thing in the morning to make sure they are within a few degrees of each other - ECT, EOT, TFT, IAT1, IAT2.
VGT Actuator - Clean (carb. Cleaner ONLY) or replace. VGT actuator will cost around $250.Located beside (drivers side) the fuel filter in the engine well.
Turbo - Clean (Carb. Cleaner ONLY) or replace. Links to Tech folder and FDDTS for cleaning procedure:
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-05.php
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ing-turbo.html
Sensors, Miscellanous, things that have a failure history (and some upgrade suggestions when they fail)
HPOP - International makes a STC fitting "delete": http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-07-08.php
International Part Number is 1879930c91 Note HPOP is driven by the camshaft.
IPR Valve installed on top of the HPOP. The solenoid and connector are on top of the HPOP cover plate (behind and to the left of the oil filter).
ICP (has had pig tail and connector failures). Failure will cause truck not to run, or SURGING.
Regulator and connector are center of engine (top of the block), on the HPOP cover plate (between the heads). ICP (has had pig tail and connector failures). Failure will cause truck not to run, or SURGING.Regulator and connector are center of engine (top of the block), on the HPOP cover plate (between the heads).
Injector inlet O-ring leaks
PCM (has has wire chafing and plug issues) - drivers side fender behind the battery.
FICM (has had wire chafing and plug issues) - drivers side valve cover
EBP (or EP) - Drivers side of engine beside the oil dipstick where it makes its bend towards horizontal. Note: 03- EARLY 04 EBP control was disabled in the programming (eliminated in '06 assuming the updated flash was applied).
Check MAP, Baro, and EBP sensors regularly at KOEO and they should be within a half psi of each other.
Check all temperature sensors first thing in the morning to make sure they are within a few degrees of each other - ECT, EOT, TFT, IAT1, IAT2.
VGT Actuator - Clean (carb. Cleaner ONLY) or replace. VGT actuator will cost around $250.Located beside (drivers side) the fuel filter in the engine well.
Turbo - Clean (Carb. Cleaner ONLY) or replace. Links to Tech folder and FDDTS for cleaning procedure:
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-05.php
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ing-turbo.html
Last edited by bismic; 02-10-2008 at 10:30 PM.
#7
02-10-2008, 09:58 PM
5. Miscellaneous (2 of 2) - THIS IS THE LAST ONE I HAVE - please add to it!!
Injectors - Upgrade OR International has released a replacement injector that addresses issues.
Oil Leaks - most common leak points:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/622121-oil-leak.html
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/photographs/index3.php
Power Steering Pump - AGR pump if OEM fails, but the OEM pump is pretty good - especially when you keep the fluid filtered!
Ball Joints - Greasable ball joints when OEM wears at between 50k and 100k, or UPGRADE to the DynaTrac Ball Joints!
https://www.dynatrac.com/rebuildable...alljoints.html
Sway bar end link (passenger) - replace in kind if they fail.
Steering Wobble - Add dual steering stabilizers
Wheel Bearings - revised dust shields (TSB)
Hubs and wheel bearings - OEM not serviceable. Switch to DynaTrac Free Spin or DynaLoc when OEM fails.
Limited Slip Differential - Switch to Detroit True Trac if OEM fails.
ARP head studs are an improvement, but ONLY if the block deck is perfectly flat, the heads are perfectly flat, and all surfaces at the proper surface finish!
Injectors - Upgrade OR International has released a replacement injector that addresses issues.
Oil Leaks - most common leak points:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/622121-oil-leak.html
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/photographs/index3.php
Power Steering Pump - AGR pump if OEM fails, but the OEM pump is pretty good - especially when you keep the fluid filtered!
Ball Joints - Greasable ball joints when OEM wears at between 50k and 100k, or UPGRADE to the DynaTrac Ball Joints!
https://www.dynatrac.com/rebuildable...alljoints.html
Sway bar end link (passenger) - replace in kind if they fail.
Steering Wobble - Add dual steering stabilizers
Wheel Bearings - revised dust shields (TSB)
Hubs and wheel bearings - OEM not serviceable. Switch to DynaTrac Free Spin or DynaLoc when OEM fails.
Limited Slip Differential - Switch to Detroit True Trac if OEM fails.
ARP head studs are an improvement, but ONLY if the block deck is perfectly flat, the heads are perfectly flat, and all surfaces at the proper surface finish!
Last edited by bismic; 02-10-2008 at 10:54 PM.
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#8
02-10-2008, 10:02 PM
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#9
02-10-2008, 10:05 PM
Originally Posted by bismic
4. Head Gaskets (weak in this area - all suggestions welcome)
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=634 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 476pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 23186" width=634><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=634 height=15>Minimize Potential for Head Gasket Problems:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Keep turbo system clean and healthy</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Install gauges and alarm at 28 - 30 psi boost (if not running a tuner)
Properly programmed custom tuner can help keep cylinder pressures down and improve reliability in head gaskets.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=634 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 476pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 23186" width=634><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=634 height=15>Minimize Potential for Head Gasket Problems:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Keep turbo system clean and healthy</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Install gauges and alarm at 28 - 30 psi boost (if not running a tuner)
Properly programmed custom tuner can help keep cylinder pressures down and improve reliability in head gaskets.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
The following users liked this post:
#10
02-10-2008, 10:06 PM
#11
02-10-2008, 10:07 PM
Originally Posted by bismic
2. Turbo sticking
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=634 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 476pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 23186" width=634><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=634 height=15>Prevent Turbo Failure:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 22.5pt" height=30><TD class=xl27 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 22.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=634 height=30>Stay with your stock Donaldson air filter setup. No need for more unless heavily modded (500hp).
Many (most?) after market filters do not filter as well as the stock system.
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Use a synthetic 5W40 oil, change at 7500 miles - high temperature resistance.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>After towing or running hard, idle for 5 minutes or so. Best to idle until POST-turbo EGT drops to 400.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/632804-turbo-saver.html?highlight=turbo+cool+down</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Synthetic oil and fuel additives can help prevent soot which can deposit on your turbo (exhaust side)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15><TABLE style="WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=634 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 476pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 23186" width=634><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=634 height=15>Get the most recent flash (it eliminates EGR operation at extended idle)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>Open up the exhaust to drop your EGT's
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Reroute your Crankcase Ventilation</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/280387-crankcase-ventilation-rerouting.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 22.5pt" height=30><TD class=xl27 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 22.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=634 height=30>Keep your EGR functioning OR delete it (do it properly by blocking off flow entirely to EGR valve and cooler).
Some 2005 and up vehicles will throw a code that can only be cleared w/ a tuner w/ disconnected EGR valve.
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=634 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 476pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 23186" width=634><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=634 height=15>Resolve Turbo Problems:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-05.php</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/702061-failing-turbo.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>VGT or PCM troubleshooting when having a turbo problem
TC P0046 (post 10)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/704306-help-turbo-problem-loss-of-power-at-low-rpms.html</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=634 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 476pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 23186" width=634><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=634 height=15>Prevent Turbo Failure:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 22.5pt" height=30><TD class=xl27 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 22.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=634 height=30>Stay with your stock Donaldson air filter setup. No need for more unless heavily modded (500hp).
Many (most?) after market filters do not filter as well as the stock system.
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Use a synthetic 5W40 oil, change at 7500 miles - high temperature resistance.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>After towing or running hard, idle for 5 minutes or so. Best to idle until POST-turbo EGT drops to 400.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/632804-turbo-saver.html?highlight=turbo+cool+down</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Synthetic oil and fuel additives can help prevent soot which can deposit on your turbo (exhaust side)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15><TABLE style="WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=634 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 476pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 23186" width=634><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=634 height=15>Get the most recent flash (it eliminates EGR operation at extended idle)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>Open up the exhaust to drop your EGT's
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>Reroute your Crankcase Ventilation</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/280387-crankcase-ventilation-rerouting.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 22.5pt" height=30><TD class=xl27 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 22.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=634 height=30>Keep your EGR functioning OR delete it (do it properly by blocking off flow entirely to EGR valve and cooler).
Some 2005 and up vehicles will throw a code that can only be cleared w/ a tuner w/ disconnected EGR valve.
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=634 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 476pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 23186" width=634><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=634 height=15>Resolve Turbo Problems:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-05.php</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/702061-failing-turbo.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>VGT or PCM troubleshooting when having a turbo problem
TC P0046 (post 10)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=15>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/704306-help-turbo-problem-loss-of-power-at-low-rpms.html</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
#12
02-10-2008, 10:22 PM
#14
02-11-2008, 12:03 AM
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#15
02-11-2008, 12:18 AM
Below is a previous post w/ a TON of good information (some more of my research and more from others). I wanted to include the link to this thread so that new 6.0L owners could have all of the collective information contained (OR linked) in this one thread. Be prepared to spend some "quality time" w/ all the links. 
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...e-6-0-p-s.html
FTE has been awesome so far!! Make sure you become a supporter and keep it going!!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...e-6-0-p-s.html
FTE has been awesome so far!! Make sure you become a supporter and keep it going!!
Last edited by bismic; 02-11-2008 at 12:23 AM.