The crankcase ventilation system on the 6.0 PSD is of an open/free vent variety (no PCV valve). Crankcase pressure is vented through 4 holes on the drivers side valve cover, into a filter housing,(mounted on the valve cover) passed through a CCV tube, and reintroduced into the intake pre-turbo (between the compressor side of the turbocharger and the mass air flow tube)
Just as on the previous 7.3 PSD, these crankcase gasses deposit oil throughout the intake, clogging airflow in the intercooler and burning the oil that is passed through. Cleaning this up is as easy as rerouting the CCV path from the intake to an open atmosphere vent.

The only equipment you will need is -
1. 2 medium sized ( 1.25-1.50 inch dia) hose clamps
2. A small rubber or plastic plug (dia of CCV end tube)
3. A length of 1 inch Int. Dia. rubber hosing
4. A pack of zip ties

This is a shot of the turbo inlet tube (where the CCV vents) and the plastic expansion joint. You can also see one of the coolant lines at the top that you will need to disconnect-
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=53555&width=0

Begin by unplugging the wiring from the Mass Air Flow sensor (a square plastic sensor on top of the intake tube; has a 6 wire plug) and the wire going to the FilterMinder (the clear filter gauge tube on the back of the air filter housing assembly, has a 2 wire plug). Remove the air filter housing, and place it to the side. With a pair of pliers, remove the two coolant lines from the Degas bottle (coolant overflow) and fold them to the side, out of the way. Then, remove the hose clamp from the top of the Mass Air Tube (this is the tube that attatches to the rear of the air filter; remove the clamp at the back of the plastic expansion joint). Once the clamp is removed, pull the mass air tube assembly out and lay it aside; Then remove the clamp on the other side of the plastic expansion joint and lay the joint aside also.
This will allow you a clear view of the CCV structure. You can now see the crankcase vent filter (mounted between the valve cover and FICM bracket, a long, rectangular black box), tube, and the slant-cut CCV end tube protruding into the turbocharger compressor inlet tube. There are two small bolts holding the FICM bracket to the back side of the turbo inlet tube; remove these and set them aside. Remove the hose clamp from the turbo inlet tube at the turbo compressor housing, and wiggle out the CCV tube elbow from the crankcase vent filter.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=53549&width=0
(The elbow comes out of the front of filter, mounted on the valve cover; rotate it back and forth as you pull outward to line up the release tabs). You can now pull the turbo inlet tube, with the CCV tube still in place, out of the truck.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=53554&width=0

Here is a shot of the turbo inlet, CCV system, and valve cover removed from the truck (no, you do not have to remove the valve cover, this is for demonstration)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=53556&width=0

The CCV tube is attached to the turbo inlet tube with 3 small silver crimp rings; take a dremel tool or cutting pliers and cut down the middle of the crimp on each one; they will pop off and you can now dissassemble the CCV tube and pull the protruding end out of the turbo inlet tube.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=53545&width=0

Now, you need to find a plug to glue into the bottom end of the CCV end nozzle (the slant-cut part that was inside the turbo inlet).

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=53551&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=53552&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=53553&width=0

Anything will work as a plug, as long as it is snug enough NOT to be sucked into the intake after you glue it.
In this picture, I used the plug that came on the tank for my water injection system. I just happened to fit by a stroke of luck (it is the red plug in the picture)

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=53548&width=0

You CANNOT allow anything loose in the tube; it will be drawn into the turbo compressor and destroy the turbocharger. Once you have found a suitable plug, use JB weld, plastic solvent, or gasket maker to secure the plug into the nozzle elbow as shown in the picture. At this point, you can cut off the end of the nozzle to help free up air travel in the tube if you wish, or simply insert the nozzle back into the turbo inlet tube and install a hose clamp where the crimp ring was.
Now, take the hose that you have (any 1 inch internal diameter rubber hose should work; Home depot will carry a variety that will work; you will need anywhere from 10-15 feet of hose depending on where you would like it to vent) and install the hose onto the elbow that mates with the CCV filter on the drivers valve cover. Install the hose with the hose clamp, and insert the elbow back into the CCV filter.
Run the hose down past the engine to the underside of the truck. Use the zip ties to secure it away from the exhaust manifold and steering shaft (and any other moving part) and toward the vicinity of the drivers side frame rail). Run the line down the frame rail, adjacent to the HFCM and fuel lines, all the way to whatever point you wish for the hose to vent. I would recommend far enough to clear the spare tire, because whatever the hose is aimed at will eventually develop a coating of lube oil, due to the oil that is vented through the CCV.
Now, begin reassembling the intake assembly. Make sure that the CCV nozzle (with the plug it it; make sure the adhesive is dried) is inside the turbo inlet tube, and reinstall the turbo tube. Install the clamp first, then the two FICM bracket bolts. Getting the bracket bolts lined back up is a pain; a flashlight will help tremendously. Make sure the CCV elbow (the one coming out of the filter, with the new line installed) is tight inside the CCV filter with the o-ring in place; then install the plastic expansion joint back onto the turbo inlet tube and tigten the clamp. Install the Mass air flow tube back onto the expansion joint, tighten the clamp, and plug the wires for the MAF sensor and the FilterMinder back in. Reinstall the air filter housing, and reclamp the coolant lines to the overflow bottle. You are now done; check over everything a third time.

You will notice a slightly oily smoke eminate from the tube you ran to the back of the truck at cold start. This will (for the most part) go away when the engine is warm, however it will always deposit some amount of oil, so keep this in mind when placing then end of the tube you installed.

If anyone would like to do this and needs assistance, just drop me a PM.

 

Even an old guy like me can follow these...great stuff

 

just a thought, what about running the new hose to before the air filter?

 

then you'd end up with a greasy air filter as a result of the blowby--if you were refering to running it through the air filter

 

I wonder if there is anything we could run this to like a resivoir or something. PSD great dirrections.

 

a steel tube welded at a 30 deg angle in the dp draws the blowby out of the engine and burns it in the exhaust.

the angle makes a siphon effect, even with a muffler and stock exhaust with back pressure

 

I guess that'd be OK if you have a K&N filter.

 

it floods real bad here in graysville tennessee and i had to rerout my rear and front end and transfercase ventilation and just moved them to the hood somewhere. I just took a long rubber hose and put a valve cover breather on the end of the hose under the hood for them very simple. so i am probablly flood my engine before the front and rear end and transfercase does

 

Try cutting the tube out of the MAF to reduce restriction.
For a plug , use a cap like those that go on vacume logs on cars. These won't get sucked into the intake.

 

Lets get this thread sticky, sticky sticky...Had crash not uncovered it for me I would have never found it

 

I saved it as a Word document as well.

 

Check out the Tech Folder

 

PSD - What year truck/engine is that valve cover from? I took a look at my valve cover on my '03 and it looks nothing like the one you have. I have no filter housing on the valve cover. I didn't remember the valve cover looking like that when replaced a few injectors a while back.

 

PSD, I have a new 2005 6.0L....so I'm very interested in keeping it clean as possible for long life. I currently have less than 400 miles. But I have a couple concerns:

1) Any foreseeable issue with this mod on a brand new engine?

2) As designed, the crankcase is vented into the turbo inlet. The inlet creates a vacuum affect on the CCV tube, sucking the gases out of the crankcase (through a filter). So the PSD expects this vacuum to suck the crankcase gases out. So if we change this to vent to atmospheric pressure, there is no vacuum affect, are we getting sufficient venting of the crankcase? Is there enough backpressure in the crankcase to 'push' the gases out? through the filter?

3) Any comments on bighoss550 post from 9/7/2004?

Thanks!

 

The intake air flowing past it should in theory create a vaccum using Bernoullis principle.