On a scale from 1-10 how difficult is is to replace a right side power window motor?Finally fizzled out on me today after window was stalling and stopping for a few days.Also what is a fair price if i decide to get it replaced by a garage?Thanks...David

 

It's a pretty easy job. How it would rate on a scale of 1-10 would depend on your mechanical ability & the tools available to you. Here's the procedure:

Removal

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).

2. Remove the front door trim panel (23942) and front door trim shield (237A04).

3. Disconnect wire to window regulator electric drive (23394) from wire harness connector.

4. Note: Check inside front door (20124) to make sure electrical wires are not in line with holes to be drilled in the front door inner panel.

Using a 12.7-mm (1/2-inch) diameter drill bit, drill two holes in the front door inner panel at the drill dimples located opposite two screws retaining window regulator electric drive.

5. Remove the three screws retaining window regulator electric drive using two drilled holes and existing larger hole access to screw heads.

6. Prop the front door window glass in full up position.

7. Push window regulator electric drive toward the front door outer panel to disengage the window regulator electric drive from the gear on the front door window regulator.

8. Remove the window regulator electric drive from inside the front door.


Installation

1. Position the window regulator electric drive and engage window regulator electric drive gear with the gear on the front door window regulator.

2. Install and tighten the window regulator electric drive-to-front door screws to 6-9 N-m (53-80 lb-in).

3. Remove the prop from the front door window glass.

4. Install two pieces of Pressure-Sensitive Waterproof Tape D6AZ-19627-A or equivalent body tape (25.4 mm [1 inch] square) over drilled holes.

5. Connect wiring to window regulator electric drive.

6. Note: When the battery (10655) has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) to relearn the strategy.

Connect battery ground cable. Check front door window glass operation.

7. Make sure door drain holes are open.

8. Install front door trim panel and front door trim shield.

My labor guide allows 1.2-1.8 hours for window motor replacement.

 

Knuckles:Is there any thing i need to know about when pulling off door panel?I have power door locks and pwr mirrors.Will the panel come off fairly easy.Sorry for all the questions.. just dont want to tear anything up.Someone said that i would have to drill out rivets that were holding motor in.Then bolt new one back on.Sound right?.. i'll be taking on this job tomorrow and i'll let you know how it comes out..Thanks...David

 

Hey 81, you do not drill out the rivets holding the motor, as
their aren't any. you drill a 1/2" hole into the dimples to
fit your socket in, to access the mounting bolts for the motor
just follow step by step the instructions posted above, you
can't go wrong, panels just pop out after you remove the screws.
becareful disconnecting the connectors for the pwr wdw/locks,
also remove the inner window seal first.....good luck....

 

There were rivets on my '93 that I had to drill out when my power
window motor went on me. It wasn't that difficult. Just my 2 cents.

 

Hey Mic or Knuckles:Well i got the thing out and just for kicks i hooked it back up with it out and it started working perfectly.What gives????

 

Thats pretty common , you can likely reinstall the motor & it will work fine for a day or two & then you will be right back to it not working , Trust me , it will die completely & you will have to redo it all over again , Replace it & be done with it .

 

Mine did the same thing....replace it while you have it out!

 

Howdy, I removed my window motor about a year ago 'cause it stoped working, and me being the industrious type I took it apart!! I found that there was a lot of carbon build up on the Stator (bronze looking part on end of motor Shaft) I used some sand paper to remove that; sprayed everything with WD-40, and put it back together this all sounds simple ha ha it took me a better part of an hour and a half to get it all done don't try this at home as they say!! The motor worked fine for the first 6 months, till the warm weather came then it started to make a growling noise it is working as good as the Drivers side motor just this noise. If you attempt to do this on your own I would recomend you use a silicone type lubricant!
Use the removal and installation procedure as above; Good Luck.

 

If the motor ran fine after removal you may just need a new gear set, the shock absorbing little round dowel looking plastic thingies in the gears finally get ground up. I just replaced the right side on my 93 F350, I bought the kit at the Ford dealer however it was the wrong one, when I returned it they told me that's the only one they carried and the one that I had bought previously (for the left side) was an aftermarket kit and they no longer carried it. So I saved about $25 by just cutting three pieces of 5/16 gas line the right size and used that... works great, cost about 10 cents unless you have to buy a whole foot of hose...

John

 

Knuckles,

Would this procedure be the same for a 1992 Bronco?

Also, is this a valid test to see if the electric drive motor is good or bad: ? I jumped some wires to the electric motor drive molex connector and touched them to a 12vdc battery, to
see if the motor would operate in a given direction. I got nothing (except a little arcing). I determined the motor to be bad.

Thanks...