Alright, so I just bought a 93 Ranger. Manual transmission, 2WD, 4.0 engine. Got swindled into big-time DMV fees due to a fake 2016 registration sticker on the truck when I bought it. It actually hasn't been registered since 2010... Got the fees dealt with, and am now trying to pass smog.

Everything passes except:
PCV (I was told this needs to just be reattached as it was detached in the engine bay)
Engine light is on (why this is mandatory to fix for smog, I have no idea)

Vapor leak (the gas cap is A-OK).

I took a look around today and the hose running from the vapor canister to the vapor purge valve was really really cracked and worn. Pulled the hoses, read a bunch on-line to realize that my purge valve is broken, so I bought a new one.

Autozone etc don't seem to have any hoses that fit correctly on all parts (since they're all different sized on one end than the other.) With how much it costs to get the truck smogged I'd rather be safe than sorry and replace both the hoses on both sides of the purge valve as well as the hose from the intake to the vapor canister. Anyone have a part number, or know the correct size/type hoses/connectors to get to the same result?

The vapor canister itself looks good visually. I don't see any cracking or damage. Not sure what else I'd need to do to tell if it's good.

What else should I look into before heading back to get it smogged again?

Many thanks to anyone who helps out. I was really excited to own this little truck, but it's been quite the haul.

 

Check the filler tube. Pipes rust and the rubber parts rot. Others have had those issues. Having said that I have never had any trouble on a 98 and 99 explorer which uses similar pieces. Fake tags. You gonna go kill the seller?

 

Probably not worth much right now but CA law says the seller is required to smog it for you the buyer.

 

Trust me, I thought about it. Will check the filler tube today.

Still need to find part numbers for those hoses.

That's all that's in the system though, isn't it? Canister, vap purge valve, hoses from/to canister, filler tube, gas tank, and the line going from the tank to the engine bay?

Yeah, I learned that after the fact too. First vehicle I've purchased in CA that wasn't exempt (I've got 2 diesel cars and a motorcycle.) Seller's phone's been shut off, and the police department says it's not their problem. Funny to me that it's a crime to have a stolen sticker on your car, but not to have sold someone a vehicle with one. At least the truck's not stolen, I guess.

 

Maybe this will help. It's an image from one of the Autozone Online Manuals. It shows some "core" part numbers that you can google.
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What did the seller have to say, when you tried to get your money back?

 

Thank you!!!

As stated above, the seller's phone is turned off. Have no real way of getting in contact with him. Title's address is different from the address I had for him (which is entirely fair given the last change of hands for the title was in 98), and I never caught an apartment number. Guy knew what he was doing screwing me over, karma will bite him one of these days.

 

All right. Some updates.

Cleared the error code memory since I still need to have a no check engine light to pass the smog test, I get a 214 error. Thankfully it's the only error. Time to replace the camshaft position sensor (hopefully just the sensor). Is this the Camshaft Position Sensor? It's way in the rear of the engine under the intake:

https://i.imgur.com/7u13VJc.jpg

And:

https://i.imgur.com/QqgXLGl.jpg

Are those standard phillips head screws, or what?


While fishing around back there I found this guy:
https://i.imgur.com/elz1V0e.jpg

Judging by the wiring in the back of the Chilton manual it suggests it's the converter clutch solenoid plug. But I've got M/T. Should this just be hanging out and is no issue, then?

Lastly, about halfway up the left side of the intake is this guy:
https://i.imgur.com/8nVxi9u.jpg

He spins relatively freely if moved by hand, is that okay? What is it?

 

Just to let you know that if you clear the codes and if your computer hasn't had enough driving time to reset and check everything you will fail smog again.

 

Well, that's good to know. 214 needs to be dealt with regardless though, I guess.

So, fix 214, drive 5-10 miles, check codes again? I can't exactly go driving about town with it unregistered, which makes that a bit more difficult than I'd like...

 

You can usually get a temp operating permit from DMV. i would do that

 

You are correct about the location...the CMP sensor sits atop the camshaft synchronizer assembly, which is installed where the distributer shaft used to be on earlier versions.

Check out: Ranger Station Forums Thread

 

Okay. Got all of that taken care of. CEL is off and stays off after 30 miles. There's no more vapor leak in the engine bay.

There is however a leak coming from the tank or filler neck somewhere. Can anyone suggest the correct part number for the filler neck for my truck? 1993 XLT 4.0. I'll be taking the bed off this weekend to have a crack at it but would like to order the part just in case.