Need help on injectors for 7.3
#1
Need help on injectors for 7.3
So with help of this forum I got my truck back running. Question now is I have 3 injectors not firing oil when started it finally warms up enough to to drive. The truck is supposed to have stage 1 injectors but I'm not certain and no way of finding out. Can I put stock injectors in the 3 cylinders and if it has stage 1 in the other 7 will it hurt it?
#2
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So with help of this forum I got my truck back running. Question now is I have 3 injectors not firing oil when started it finally warms up enough to to drive. The truck is supposed to have stage 1 injectors but I'm not certain and no way of finding out. Can I put stock injectors in the 3 cylinders and if it has stage 1 in the other 7 will it hurt it?
#7
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#8
I wouldn't do it. If they are stage ones there is a good chance they are single shot injectors. Stock injectors are split shot. The program has to be different. I have heard split shot program will run single shots but it runs really rough. Not sure about the other way around.
If there is no oil until it warms up, it sounds like the injectors are worn out. how many miles on them.
If there is no oil until it warms up, it sounds like the injectors are worn out. how many miles on them.
#9
Well I bought truck used and was told they have 40 thousand miles. I can't be sure of that no reciept truck has 280,000 now I know the truck doesn't have a chip on it currently so don't know how it could run single shots. Unknown territory on that for me but I got to get it cranking better. Also even when it is warm and driving there is a skip every 3-5 mins it seems. Truck will pause then pick up power again.
#10
Switching to synthetic oil can really help cold weather starts.
The 3-5 minute skip could be a variety of things. Is the check engine light on? Any way to read codes?
Lots more diagnostics to do before cracking open the wallet for injectors. Without knowing exactly what you have a full set would be the way to go.
The 3-5 minute skip could be a variety of things. Is the check engine light on? Any way to read codes?
Lots more diagnostics to do before cracking open the wallet for injectors. Without knowing exactly what you have a full set would be the way to go.
#11
You need to get with SkySkiJason. He is the resident EXPERT on these engines in N. Georgia. He just posted about a very nice brake job he did. PM him!!!
That said, IF they are Stage 1 injectors, then they SHOULD be AC code injectors (160/0). The code on the solenoid will mean nothing if they are, in fact, modified. You should not mix and match between singles and splits. If I had 3 bad ones on a truck I did not know the history on, I would lean toward replacing all 8 for piece of mind and sanity down the road. But, that is just me...
Try a 5W-40 synthetic first, as that is your cheapest option from where I sit.
That said, IF they are Stage 1 injectors, then they SHOULD be AC code injectors (160/0). The code on the solenoid will mean nothing if they are, in fact, modified. You should not mix and match between singles and splits. If I had 3 bad ones on a truck I did not know the history on, I would lean toward replacing all 8 for piece of mind and sanity down the road. But, that is just me...
Try a 5W-40 synthetic first, as that is your cheapest option from where I sit.
#12
We are jumping right on the injector thing, because that was the question. If the question was more like "Running rough, and oil not coming out of injector spout", the conversation might skew to the UVCH.
Before we condemn the sticks, I'd like to make sure they are getting the proper firing signal. You can find a testing method in the UVCH link in my signature.
Without a scan tool/gauge, we don't know what the ICP is. For all we know, it could be 400 PSI at idle because of a bad ICP sensor. This would cause all kinds of injector and idle symptoms. If you'd like to control your own destiny, click here: [LINK]. If you feel a little nervous about taking charge over an enigmatic diesel, click the BEST link in my signature.
Before we condemn the sticks, I'd like to make sure they are getting the proper firing signal. You can find a testing method in the UVCH link in my signature.
Without a scan tool/gauge, we don't know what the ICP is. For all we know, it could be 400 PSI at idle because of a bad ICP sensor. This would cause all kinds of injector and idle symptoms. If you'd like to control your own destiny, click here: [LINK]. If you feel a little nervous about taking charge over an enigmatic diesel, click the BEST link in my signature.
#13
We are jumping right on the injector thing, because that was the question. If the question was more like "Running rough, and oil not coming out of injector spout", the conversation might skew to the UVCH.
Before we condemn the sticks, I'd like to make sure they are getting the proper firing signal. You can find a testing method in the UVCH link in my signature.
Without a scan tool/gauge, we don't know what the ICP is. For all we know, it could be 400 PSI at idle because of a bad ICP sensor. This would cause all kinds of injector and idle symptoms. If you'd like to control your own destiny, click here: [LINK]. If you feel a little nervous about taking charge over an enigmatic diesel, click the BEST link in my signature.
Before we condemn the sticks, I'd like to make sure they are getting the proper firing signal. You can find a testing method in the UVCH link in my signature.
Without a scan tool/gauge, we don't know what the ICP is. For all we know, it could be 400 PSI at idle because of a bad ICP sensor. This would cause all kinds of injector and idle symptoms. If you'd like to control your own destiny, click here: [LINK]. If you feel a little nervous about taking charge over an enigmatic diesel, click the BEST link in my signature.
Ps I still have mechanical Guage hooked to hpop and at idle truck is idling around 500-600 psi at idle thanks
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