Hi Everyone,


I have a 1969 F-250 (240 ci 6-cylinder, manual transmission, manual choke) with an Autolite 1101-A carb. The guy I bought the truck from told me he had it rebuilt several years ago to get it to pass emissions here in Colorado. Though I am resigned to the fact that the 240 is not known for big power, I have felt that the truck is underpowered. After taking care of some routine tune-up items (spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, PCV valve, air & fuel filters, etc.), it runs a lot better but still feels underpowered.


I have not touched the carb since getting the truck. I recently noticed some fuel dripping from the bottom of the carb, and upon closer inspection noticed that the leak is coming from a gasket running through the middle of unit. After the engine is turned off, gas continues to leak from this area for awhile.


So... I have several questions. First, what's involved in changing that gasket? Is it as simple as unscrewing the top part of the unit, replacing the gasket and putting it back together? (BTW, I don't know much about cars, and don't mind admitting it. I've really enjoyed learning on this old truck, but I don't know any about carbs. Please feel free to simplify things to a painful degree).


Second, presumably the "rebuild" involved reducing the amount of fuel the carb feeds to the engine (the guy I bought it from bragged about how it's more fuel efficient now). If I were to buy a new carb, what are my options for ones that would be compatible with this engine? Should I go with another Autolite? Even try to find another unmodified 1101-A? How tough is it to install a new carb and adjust it?


Obviously, pictures are above. Red arrow indicates where the leak seems to be occurring.


Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

Welcome to FTE!The holes that are tapped into the bowl from the top right by your arrow are easily over tightened and stripped if this happens you will loose the seal and leak fuel. On my uncles '63 I took and drilled and tapped them to a bigger size and was very careful when tightening it and it runs like a champ. POS carburetor IMO hated it. There was also a check ball inside that was missing when we pulled it apart his is a 223 but same carb.

 

Thanks. If I pulled it apart would I need to do any readjusting after putting it back together? Also, any recs about compatible replacents if I opted to upgrade to something else?

 

Maybe the float I don't remember we rebuilt it with a spare he had and a rebuild kit. I know some of the other guys on here are more knowledgeable than me maybe they can chime in.

 

I also think there is a holly 1 bbl that is aftermarket you can buy but IIRC all the 1 bbls are expensive even the reman autolite. A rebuild kit is like $70.

 

It looks like the screws were over tighten an pulled the cast metal down pinching the gasket below the screws where it leaks. These areas may have to be straighten for a gasket to seal good. But may be just the picture..

If you take it apart and can't get it back together you may end up finding a shop.
But many shops guys don't know shxt about carbs in today world they ex-change parts. It would have to be a carb rebuilder..
Just sayin.
Orich

 

Hey Colorado, welcome to FTE

Nice thing about the internet and world wide web forums is that it has really made obscure and obsolete repair stuff for DIY folks pretty painless. Start reading webpages and manuals, pdf from Holley, etc, everything you can get your hands on.

There's probably also YouTube video that will walk you through the entire rebuild process, if not that exact same model carb, one that is real close. I would try to be as thorough as possible for the entire system - take a look at the fuel tank itself. Is it rusted and full of crud? Think about replacing it. Definitely replace any and all rubber fuel components, new fuel pump, blow out hard lines.

Setting up a new or rebuilt carburetor isn't too tough but there is a learning curve and it's very common to screw it up. Again follow directions in the manuals and instruction sheets for linkage, setup and idle mixture and you'll be all set.

 

Carb ID tag number: C8UF-S = Ford part number: C5AZ-9510-P .. 1V Carburetor (Auto-Lite/Motorcraft CA-357) / Obsolete

C8UZ-9502-A .. Carburetor Gasket Set (Motorcraft CG-219) / Obsolete ~ Available NOS & from auto parts stores.

C5AZ-9A586-B .. Carburetor Tune-Up Kit-includes gasket set (Motorcraft CT-189) / Obsolete ~ Available NOS & from auto parts stores.

C8UZ-9590-A .. Carburetor Major Overhaul Kit-includes tune up kit (Motorcraft CR-360) / Obsolete ~ Available NOS & from auto parts stores.

Applications: 1965/69 F100/350 240/300 I-6 // 1965/67 E100 240 I-6 // 1965/69 Galaxie/LTD 240 I-6 // 1969 E100/300 240/300 I-6.

 

As for a direct replacement, the Carter YF or YFA (forget which one) are available with or without automatic choke. I like the manual choke.
They should bolt right up to it. Not sure if there is an improvement in performance but I have a rebuilt Carter from RockAuto on my 69 with a 140 and it runs OK.
If you want tackle a rebuild on your own, they say these one barrels are the ones to get your feet wet with. I rebuilt the one on my 71 with a 240 and it ran pretty good after my sophomoric efforts. Was not all that precise on the float adjustment.
I did not rebuild the Carter on my 69 as the problem was with the base spring not returning properly and I could not repair that.

 

@ Tedster9: Thanks for the advice. Based on your suggestion, I was able to find a Youtube video of a guy rebuilding an Autolite 1101.


@ Orich: To your point, I called up a local carburetor repair shop (didn't know they existed) and got a quote on a rebuild: $175. It's nice to know that if I screwed it up, I could take it to those guys to bail me out.


@ NumberDummy: Thank you so much for that info. That was much more than I had hoped, and should greatly assist in finding the correct parts embark on this little project. Also, the exploded diagram is very helpful, I printed it out in large format.


@hillcountryflt: Thanks for the rec on a potential replacement. Much appreciated.

 

When rebuilding a carb: Cleanliness is next to Godliness

Wait until you see the small holes and passages inside the carb. That will show you what I mean. The smallest amount of dirt or crud will effect the fuel metering. The best home method is to buy several cans of carb cleaner, some gloves, and a couple of small sized brushes.

When you take it apart lay everything out in order on a clean surface to help you remember where the parts came from. A rebuild kit will have all the measurements you need. It helps to have someone walk you through it the first time...but since you already found a carb shop I'd say go for it.

One thing you might find wrong on a old carb are the throttle shaft bushings. The throttle shaft should not have ANY play in it. If it does you need to have new bushings installed. If the throttle moves around it will allow air to leak in after the fuel metering circuits.

Good luck

 

If you get to the point you just want to send it off or have someone local do it, a friend of mine used this place for a carb on a 42 or so Dodge of his was very pleased with the results:
Carburetors and More