My 49 226 6 was running fine but sometimes fuel would gush out of the carb when you shut it off. Then it started to pour out at idle. Now it runs really rough and gas is running out most of the time.
I plan on opening it up today but I don't know what to look for. I would like to get her fixed before I go up in flames.

 

First thought would be float problem... either it filled with fuel and sunk or it's bound-up somehow in low position... each issue would leave needle valve full open. Perhaps second, its the needle valve itself stuck open, allowing fuel pump to push fuel through under operating pressure with no control.

Others will have suggestions as well. Let us know what you find when you start rebuild/exploration.

Brian

 

Most likely the float valve. Get a current production carb rebuild kit and install it. Clean the entire carb in the process.

 

Judging by what you describe...it's probably the float in your carburetor bowl acting up. It's either sticking, or it may have a pinhole in it, causing it to have slowly taken on gasoline. Either cause would prevent it from floating properly and correctly regulating the amount of gas...hence the overflow.

You need to carefully take the bowl apart...it's easier to do this on your workbench, especially given that it's a small 1-barrel carb set up in a pretty simple arrangement. Remove air cleaner assembly, unhook choke and throttle linkage, and carefully disconnect the fuel line. Fuel line fittings are probably brass, so be mindful not to strip. Then undo the two nuts holding the carb, and bring it to your bench. Have plenty of rags on hand to absorb the gas that's going to leak.

Take the bowl off the carb carefully. The gasket might be worth saving, but probably not. Depending on age and condition of things, I can't tell you exactly what you'll find in terms of gasket life, residue, lack of freedom of movement, etc. But your problem could be a sticking needle valve, hinge, or the float itself. You may well need to buy a carb rebuild kit. I would definitely advise that. They're readily available (you'll need the carb model #), not too expensive, and the subsequent surgery is pretty straightforward and definitely worth the peace of mind. When you're done, everything should be clean and moving smoothly. Reverse procedure to re-assemble. If you have a little experience with the tools, this is a DIY job.

 

Thanks for the quick replies.

I removed the top, the float seems fine, but the needle wasn't moving freely so I pulled the float off and pulled the needle out and now it moves better.
One of the screw holes on the top is stripped so I will Helicoil it clean everything up and try it again.

 

While you have it apart, take the seat tube out and clean the passage from the inlet to the valve carefully. A chunk of junk can wedge in the seat and keep the needle from seating.

 

Thanks for the help guys.
I cleaned it up and found 2 stripped screw holes that I Helicoiled and all is good now, no leaking while running or when shut off. Yay