I have done some searches and only found one other post describing a similar situation--and that guy didn't solve it either.I have a 1992 F250 and my driver's side window works 98% of the time but every once in a while if I roll the window all the way down something will bind and I have to loosen the three bolts holding the motor in place to roll the window up. Tried replacing the motor but had the same issue. Would wedging a wood block inside the door to prevent the window from going all the way down be an option? Any suggestions are appreciated. At least the previous owner cut a notch in the door to make access to one of the bolts much easier

 

Don't use a wood block.


There must be some play in the regulator that allows it to flex into some objectionable position at the bottom of the stroke.


It's best to observe what is actually happening first hand, so make every effort to get an eyeball on the assembly at that position.


All points that contact, or rub, should have lubricant.


Any shiny spots were the regulator arm brushes past it's mounting plate need lubricant, a type that does not wash out.


Lube the track under the window that the arm rides in.


Check for distortion of the regulator assembly.

 

Was this the post you found? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-windows.html

I still haven't looked into this issue much, just don't roll the window down all the way works for me as its the pass side window.

Forgot about this one, it talks about the door bowing out possabliy causing the jam up.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-working.html

 

Thanks for the replies. No, I hadn't seen those posts yet. As I actually don't even bother to use the driver's side door panel I can see that there is quite a bit of flex in the door metal itself--but the passenger side seems about the same and it works fine. Even with the passenger side door panel on I can see that the door metal is flexing as the window goes up or down.

And you're right Tobacco--I won't use a wood block since that is a pretty lame excuse for a solution. I will try to lube everything up real good and see what's goin' on. If excessive flex in the door is the issue are there any ideas that don't include welding which might stiffen the door?

 

The bolts that replace the factory rivets have to be very short.


The arm must pass those bolts. Check the clearance.


When the regulator was out did it come apart?


Maybe the travel relationship of the gearing is now limited from original.


There is always the option of trying a new regulator.


Is there play on the rail that the regulator mounts to?

 

Will check after work today. I never even thought about the bolts possibly being too long. And whoever worked on my truck over the years has come up with some interesting replacement bolts. When I removed my clutch inspection plate I had to use a different size socket for each bolt--not a good omen.

 

Yeah this an old thread but I finally figured out my window issue. For a long while I just got good at NOT rolling my window all the way down. But then one day my window stuck in the down position and I found that I had no patience to gently deal with the situation anymore. Sooo, I opened the door, which doesn't have a panel on it, and just started kicking the window motor while periodically trying to roll it up. Well lo and behold my size 16 boot did just the trick. I knew there had to be a better technique than kicking the window motor so the next time my window stuck I grabbed a screwdriver, hit the window motor with the handle once, and sure enough it rolled up nicely again.
Now I'm no mechanic but when I was diagnosing a starter issue I read about starters not working because the brushes on the electric motor would stop just perfectly so no contact could be made when current was sent to it. I am guessing here that the brushes in my window motor are stopping just perfectly wrong and that is why the window occasionally gets stuck either UP or DOWN--but never halfway. Looks like a new window motor would fix the issue but since I don't have a door panel anyway I prefer to just beat on it with the nearest blunt object. Stress reduction? A little I think Hope this helps someone out there.

 

hahahaha those are just temporary fixes Mtnhaul, to get you out of a pinch. If you think it's the motor and the panel is open, don't be cheap and get a replacement. You can also dig into the old one and try replacing the brushes.

 

Oh I will replace it eventually. I just spent a bunch of cash swapping a Dana 60 under the front of my F250 and the ol' wallet is feeling a bit light at the moment.

 

You tell me... I live in a country where minimum wage amounts to less than 15$... a month! and I just had to replace my transfer case.