Power Windows not working
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Hanover, MD
Power Windows not working
'89: Window would get stuck in down position on driver side, would work fine going up or down as long as I didn't put it all the way down. Got tired of taking the door apart when I would forget and put it down so I ordered a new motor (advance auto grade) to replace the flaky one. Well now the new one isn't working either and my passenger side won't go up or down either. If I have the plug disconnected and measure the voltage at the motor connector, I get positive battery voltage when the window switch is depressed in one direction and negative battery voltage in the other direction. Yet it won't spin the motor either the new motor or the old motor. Is it possible the relay is dropping out under load? I am at a loss as it seems I am getting proper voltage at the motor connector, but its weird that the passenger side isn't working anymore either. Ideas?
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 425
Likes: 44
From: Everett, WA
It sounds like the motor could be toast. If through your tests you're getting voltage at the plug, I would start with a new motor as a whole.
If the old one is plugged in and you hear the motor running, it sounds like it just needs a new gear.
If the old one is plugged in and you hear the motor running, it sounds like it just needs a new gear.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Hanover, MD
motor turns connected directly across battery. voltage at window motor connector when I depress switch. when I plug motor into connector it doesn't turn. What has me confused is passenger side is no longer working as well. I don't really understand the power window relay / fuse in the fuse block. It is a metal can looking 2 leaded device. It shows basically zero resistance when tested, and I am getting voltage at connector. But no motor doesn't turn, and the volt gauge doesn't drop when I am depressing the up/down switches. I guess I need to figure out the switch block wiring, there must besomething happening there only when the motor is plugged in. basically no current flow when depressing window switch. confusing.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 1
From: Rural Florida Panhandle
I recently changed a window motor, and like you, the new motor would not run. The old motor was working sometimes. After a while, I discovered that the pinion gear on the replacement motor has a slightly larger radius than the original. It was actually binding on the window rack so that it couldn't turn. I measured with a caliper to verify that was the problem. I wound up carefully taking the old motor out of the gearbox and filling with new grease, then putting it back in. That solved the problem.
Also the replacement motor worm gear had a much coarser pitch than the original, therefore making it more difficult to turn.
Also the replacement motor worm gear had a much coarser pitch than the original, therefore making it more difficult to turn.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 12
From: Sand Lake, MI
motor turns connected directly across battery. voltage at window motor connector when I depress switch. when I plug motor into connector it doesn't turn. What has me confused is passenger side is no longer working as well. I don't really understand the power window relay / fuse in the fuse block. It is a metal can looking 2 leaded device. It shows basically zero resistance when tested, and I am getting voltage at connector. But no motor doesn't turn, and the volt gauge doesn't drop when I am depressing the up/down switches. I guess I need to figure out the switch block wiring, there must besomething happening there only when the motor is plugged in. basically no current flow when depressing window switch. confusing.
Yea possible load is tripping breaker yet tests fine using meter, meter = zero load.
Overloading tripping breaker due to motor issues as suggested or perhaps someone simply put lower amperage breaker in that position. All breakers in the fuse box should be 30amp, perhaps that one had been replaced with smaller one at some point in the past or simply fails to hold to full 30amp rating.
Put a 30amp fuse in that position, see if get a reaction out of your window motors.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Hanover, MD
circuit breaker appears to be good. Even with a short across fuse panel connection it doesn't move. played with the power window switch "block" for a while and it seems the power is fine there but when depressing the switches I am getting very little voltage to the motor itself when everything is connected. Anyone have a schematic of that switch block or a link to instructions on checking it out. Must be something high resistance in there...
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New User
Joined: Apr 2012
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Michael- I'm have the same issue with '89. I agree with your statement of it not being a motor issue. I have not fixed the issue yet but have noticed the following;
1. When my window gets stuck it is always in the fully down position.
2. To fix the window I pull the motor off the regulator. When I do this the motor and regulator are in a bind. So this leads me to believe the issue is mechanical not electrical.
3. Here is my theory of the cause. As I cycle the window up and down I notice the sheet metal where the regulator is attached flexes considerably. when the window bottoms out the sheet metal flexes outward. I believe this is what causes it to bind.
Now with all of that being said will extra door bracing fix this issue? Can you verify if your motor and regulator are binding and sheet metal flexing?
Thanks. John
1. When my window gets stuck it is always in the fully down position.
2. To fix the window I pull the motor off the regulator. When I do this the motor and regulator are in a bind. So this leads me to believe the issue is mechanical not electrical.
3. Here is my theory of the cause. As I cycle the window up and down I notice the sheet metal where the regulator is attached flexes considerably. when the window bottoms out the sheet metal flexes outward. I believe this is what causes it to bind.
Now with all of that being said will extra door bracing fix this issue? Can you verify if your motor and regulator are binding and sheet metal flexing?
Thanks. John
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Hanover, MD
Michael- I'm have the same issue with '89. I agree with your statement of it not being a motor issue. I have not fixed the issue yet but have noticed the following;
1. When my window gets stuck it is always in the fully down position.
2. To fix the window I pull the motor off the regulator. When I do this the motor and regulator are in a bind. So this leads me to believe the issue is mechanical not electrical.
3. Here is my theory of the cause. As I cycle the window up and down I notice the sheet metal where the regulator is attached flexes considerably. when the window bottoms out the sheet metal flexes outward. I believe this is what causes it to bind.
Now with all of that being said will extra door bracing fix this issue? Can you verify if your motor and regulator are binding and sheet metal flexing?
Thanks. John
1. When my window gets stuck it is always in the fully down position.
2. To fix the window I pull the motor off the regulator. When I do this the motor and regulator are in a bind. So this leads me to believe the issue is mechanical not electrical.
3. Here is my theory of the cause. As I cycle the window up and down I notice the sheet metal where the regulator is attached flexes considerably. when the window bottoms out the sheet metal flexes outward. I believe this is what causes it to bind.
Now with all of that being said will extra door bracing fix this issue? Can you verify if your motor and regulator are binding and sheet metal flexing?
Thanks. John
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,935
Likes: 34
From: Arcadia, Fla
Sounds like the window switch on driver's side is bad. My 89 F250 does the same thing on the pass side when all the way down, it jams up.
Someone told me there were bump stops to keep the window from jamming up(bowing the door out) when fully down. I haven't looked to see if that is true yet.
Someone told me there were bump stops to keep the window from jamming up(bowing the door out) when fully down. I haven't looked to see if that is true yet.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Hanover, MD
What year did the switch block change? Looking at the diagram the only common points that would cause both sides to stop working are power in and the grounds. I guess I will check out the switch to see where the voltage drop is occurring (assuming its the switch) and if not there, checking the grounds
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 8
From: Baltimore
87-91 used the same switches for power windows and door locks. The switches unplug from the block.
Click on the e-bay link below for a picture of the switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Door-Power-W...d41ecc&vxp=mtr
Click on the e-bay link below for a picture of the switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Door-Power-W...d41ecc&vxp=mtr
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Hanover, MD
I would have never guessed they just unplugged. Given my symptoms I am guessing one of the wires going to the block must be bad. I can't get the passenger side window up or down either with either side switch.
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