For starter's id like to say thank you for taking the time to read this.

I currently own a 87 F250 5.0 that is refusing to run below is a list of new parts and things tried.

New in-tank fuel pump
New electronic Fuel pump
New sylinoid( spelling )
New fuel pump relay

I have had 2 mechanics look at this truck over the past two days. The first of witch told me it was not getting fuel due to two reason the inertia switch was bad ( he removed the switch and connected the wires to test that theory ) When that did not fix the issue he said the in-tank pump had gone out.

The second mechanic to look at it metered all pumps and say that they were reciveing proper power and that you could hear them engage for a moment when you turned the key to the on position, His explanation was more honest in nature saying that it could possibly be the fuel pump relay ( of witch i replaced today )

After replacing the relay i am still in the name state as i was in the first place witch no fuel pressure coming from the test port by the injectors.

If anyone has any advice i terribly need it as this vehicle is my only mode of transportation and need to return it to the road ASAP lol.

 

Try a new fuel filter...

 

Apologies as i left that off the list , fuel filter was replaced at the same time as the electronic fuel pump and in-tank fuel pump

 

If you can hear the fuel pump for 1 second when you turn the key, then the relay is doing what it is supposed to do. Try turning the key to the on position letting the fuel pump run for a second til it stops, turn off key, and do it again 4 more times. Be sure to let the pump run til it stops each time. If it starts, then the fuel system is leaking down somewhere. Mine does that occasionally, still haven't figured out why. Only way it will start when its acting up.
Does it try to start with starting fluid sprayed in the intake? May be electrical.

 

That attempt has been done a number of times and even tho we have tried it , after reading your response i went and performed that same method again.

Using starter fluid and a soda bottle with a hole poked in the lead the truck will start for a matter of seconds.

within the past 3 days i had the truck running at one point for about 5 mins ( i assume it was using fuel already in the line when it was running ) but i have yet to have it fully run again since that time.

 

I hate seeing so many parts replaced with no luck, but it seems like you're getting it narrowed down ..........questions please:

did you get any codes ?

when you say the mechanic "metered the fuel" did he connect any pressure gauges?

 

Volt meter was used no pressure gauges

as for codes i am not sure how to check the codes and he started that his code reader did not have the proper connection port to read them from this model year.

 

If you're interested, why not try following this procedure to obtain some codes?

//http://www.scribd.com/doc/34996350/Ford-OBD1-Codes-and-Procedure


After that we'll have to get a pressure reading on fuel delivery........

 

Ok after messing with this thing most the night the check engine light would not blink so i used the method of a test light and this is what i got.

*Blinks*
||.||| 23?
||.|||

1 long pause

|||||.||| 53?
|||||.|||

then it stops blinking all together

not sure if i am correct on the number code above but that is what i got.

 

Pushing this back up the list hoping for some help resolving this issue

 

Stuart, Nice job pulling codes........they're obviously interrelated and can cause run problems and in rare cases a no start when the computer gets a very high TPS signal indicating WOT (wipe open throttle) and misguides fuel mix ........you could troubleshoot the TPS' ref voltage and do a backprobe to see what actual numbers it's sending the computer, but I think that's of secondary concern right now.........

........more importantly, I believe it imperative to understand what fuel pressure you're getting ..............I just worked on a 1988 F150 with no diagnostic port on the fuel rail (to measure pressure) and was wondering if you could find a diagnostic port on your fuel rail...............

if not you'll have to de-pressurize the system (normally at the electrical connection to either the fuel pump relay, the inertia switch or the in-line high pressure fuel pump) and insert a fuel gauge between the rail and downstream (filter, high pressure pump)...........your design has two pumps --- one (low pressure) in the tanks and the high pressure pump.....

 

You seem to make everything sound so easy lol.

I just wanna say thanks for helping me out with this mess, Now to answer your questions.

Yes i do have a port on my fuel rail( at lest i assume you mean the one by the injectors lol ) that when i depress it it gives out a tiny bit of air pressure but never spits gas like i have been lead to believe.

Now for the issue this truck is my only means of trans ,the nearest auto zone to me is about 12 miles away and i have no means of getting to it at the moment.

as the only person i know in this area that i am at is currently in Dallas lol

I wonder dose auto zone deliver ?

 

You can ask… they may only deliver to their commercial accounts but...

 

Ok so i am not sure what i did between messing with the truck and doing what you guys have requested i do but the truck is now running for that i would like to thank you guys hole heartily for your help.

But now i must ask for help on another issue , the truck is a automatic and for what ever reason now that it is running i am unable to pull it out of park, it seems to go into reverse sorta but never really leaves park?

 

Not good -- could be the interlock on the ignition switch actuator and if so, you'll have to pull the steering wheel, turn signal cam/switch plate and the column shroud.

The actuator is visible after you pull the above and there's a section which breaks off and locks up the shift lever --not uncommon on older trucks.