Intermittent fuel problem
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Tallahassee, Fl.
Intermittent fuel problem
Truck is a 95 F150 5.0
Last winter, truck wouldn't start on cold mornings. After trying and trying, it would fire up and be fine all day. I changed the front fuel pump with the sender (gauge hadn't worked) and fuel filter. Still does it sometimes, and recently has died at random times. Learned the key on and off thing on this forum. After cycling the key on and off about 4 or 5 times it will start right up and be fine. Today it died in the middle lane of a busy road and wouldn't start. I cycled key off and on expecting it to start as usual, but nothing. Tried over and over, nothing. each time I keep the key on through the 1 second til I hear the pump quit; it always takes at least 4 cycles. I pushed it through the intersection, rolled downhill and coasted into a parking lot. Tried key off and on a few more times, it finally started right up like nothing was wrong. Went here and there, started and ran fine. Not getting fuel transfer between tanks, pressure is 30 psi, holds it for a while after truck is off, about 40 psi with regulator unhooked, no fuel leaking out of vacuum port on regulator. relays are OK, can hear both pumps when I do the key on thing. What am I missing?
Last winter, truck wouldn't start on cold mornings. After trying and trying, it would fire up and be fine all day. I changed the front fuel pump with the sender (gauge hadn't worked) and fuel filter. Still does it sometimes, and recently has died at random times. Learned the key on and off thing on this forum. After cycling the key on and off about 4 or 5 times it will start right up and be fine. Today it died in the middle lane of a busy road and wouldn't start. I cycled key off and on expecting it to start as usual, but nothing. Tried over and over, nothing. each time I keep the key on through the 1 second til I hear the pump quit; it always takes at least 4 cycles. I pushed it through the intersection, rolled downhill and coasted into a parking lot. Tried key off and on a few more times, it finally started right up like nothing was wrong. Went here and there, started and ran fine. Not getting fuel transfer between tanks, pressure is 30 psi, holds it for a while after truck is off, about 40 psi with regulator unhooked, no fuel leaking out of vacuum port on regulator. relays are OK, can hear both pumps when I do the key on thing. What am I missing?
Last edited by Lonzo; Jun 28, 2014 at 12:11 PM. Reason: had a thought
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
Pumps can get hot and quit but most of the time they just quit and do not start working again unless you hit the bottom of the tank with a rubber hammer.
Of course there are four other items that can cause this.
1. The Black ICM can be bad but likely with a 1995.
2. The Ignition coil but does not happen often.
3. And the most likely candidate is the PIP sensor mounted on the stator inside the distributor.
4. The PCM Computer. Does the pump run all the time the key is on when the engine does not start?
Of course there are four other items that can cause this.
1. The Black ICM can be bad but likely with a 1995.
2. The Ignition coil but does not happen often.
3. And the most likely candidate is the PIP sensor mounted on the stator inside the distributor.
4. The PCM Computer. Does the pump run all the time the key is on when the engine does not start?
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Junior User
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From: Tallahassee, Fl.
I was assuming it was fuel pressure related, because every time it has done it, the key off and on 4 or 5 times works like a charm. Probably why I haven't fixed it yet. Does it on either tank. Actually, I did it this morning with the fuel gauge connected when it wouldn't start cold in the driveway. The first time I hit the key it only went up to about 10 lbs, the next up to about 20, and so on. When it got up to normal range, it started right up. I changed the coil a while back when I did the wires just because the terminal was corroded. Right now, in the driveway, it's starting fine. Do the PIP sensors fail intermittently like that? Doing the key off and on am I maybe doing something else to the electronics coaxing them to cooperate?
The pumps run only for 1 second when the key is on, engine off.
The pumps run only for 1 second when the key is on, engine off.
Last edited by Lonzo; Jun 28, 2014 at 12:53 PM. Reason: had another thought
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 47
From: Mexico, Missouri
Sounds like pump problem or fuel psi regulator problem.
When you turn the key on, that pump should hit at least 30psi. It should hold fine if the shuttle valve isn't bad, fuel psi regulator isn't bad and your injectors aren't leaking. How long does it hold 30 psi after cycling the key? My trucks both hold full psi even after sitting for a day or more. I've had them both hooked to a fuel psi gauge for more than a day.
When you turn the key on, that pump should hit at least 30psi. It should hold fine if the shuttle valve isn't bad, fuel psi regulator isn't bad and your injectors aren't leaking. How long does it hold 30 psi after cycling the key? My trucks both hold full psi even after sitting for a day or more. I've had them both hooked to a fuel psi gauge for more than a day.
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Junior User
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From: Tallahassee, Fl.
Only time I left it connected that long, held for about a hour, maybe not that long. A leaky or stuck injector would cause poor running or black smoke? Truck runs pretty good, plenty of power. Had it 4 years, put 41,000 miles on it, runs like it always did. If I put air pressure on the fuel rail valve, would it leak through the bad check valve and be audible through the filler? Or is there just one valve somewhere?
Usually, the truck sits for several days at a time and starts right up. I take my motorcycle to work if its not raining. Truck first gave me trouble only when it was cold, now I can stop for just a few minutes and it may not start back up. Only does it occasionally, just recently started dying at random.
Thanks
Usually, the truck sits for several days at a time and starts right up. I take my motorcycle to work if its not raining. Truck first gave me trouble only when it was cold, now I can stop for just a few minutes and it may not start back up. Only does it occasionally, just recently started dying at random.
Thanks
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Junior User
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From: Tallahassee, Fl.
Front pump is new. Changed the whole assembly. The no start or dying while driving happens on either tank.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: Mooresville, NC
Codes (e.g 542) ??
The cold soaking (hard start) and the fact you cycled it before and it worked suggests one possibility not discussed (fuel pump relay)...........driver's side fender..........try a pull and reseat...........
The cold soaking (hard start) and the fact you cycled it before and it worked suggests one possibility not discussed (fuel pump relay)...........driver's side fender..........try a pull and reseat...........
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Tallahassee, Fl.
I've experienced that on a Ranger I drove for a while. I would turn the key on and flick it with my finger to start it. Later, I swapped the fuel pump and A/C relays and never had another problem with it, except for being a Ranger.
On this truck, I hear the fuel pumps turn on for a second like they are supposed to. Checks OK with pressure gauge too. I'll check the codes again tomorrow.
On this truck, I hear the fuel pumps turn on for a second like they are supposed to. Checks OK with pressure gauge too. I'll check the codes again tomorrow.
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Junior User
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From: Tallahassee, Fl.
I'm going to change the PIP or maybe the whole distributor (truck has 161,000 mi), and the fuel pressure regulator tomorrow. Taking it to Virginia the 4th, don't want to take it like this.
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Junior User
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From: Tallahassee, Fl.
Distributor and fuel pressure regulator fixed it. Turns out it was two separate problems.
Also, whenever the intake snorkels are removed, remember to tighten all the clamps when its back together. Ran like crap, had me advancing and retarding the spark and pulling my hair out til I found a loose one.
Also, whenever the intake snorkels are removed, remember to tighten all the clamps when its back together. Ran like crap, had me advancing and retarding the spark and pulling my hair out til I found a loose one.
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