Passenger Lower Stand-Pipe Issue
#1
Passenger Lower Stand-Pipe Issue
I have reviewed all the forums, discussions, posts, and youtubes for a solution. I have a 2004 F350 6.0l (build date 0404) with the "log" style oil rail. I was able to remove the valve cover with no problem. I removed the dummy plug with no problem. I removed the upper half of the stand-pipe. But, I cannot remove the lower section. I removed the bolts from the oil rail and cannot separate the oil rail from the head due to the lower stand pipe. I have tried all possibilities with no success. I am about ready to get a hack saw to slice the stand pipe in half so i can get the rail out. Went through an entire sleeve of thin mints in frustration. Please help.
#2
I'm confused here...
If you have the log rail, you don't have a dummy plug. There's a flexible hose going from the rail to standpipe and the standpipe shouldn't be keeping the rail in. If you have the wave rail, once you remove the dummy plug and the top half of the stand pipe the rail should come out, it shouldn't hang up on the bottom half. Pictures?
And a side note, using a hacksaw on part of the truck were oil would wash the shavings down into the oil is a gerneally bad idea.
If you have the log rail, you don't have a dummy plug. There's a flexible hose going from the rail to standpipe and the standpipe shouldn't be keeping the rail in. If you have the wave rail, once you remove the dummy plug and the top half of the stand pipe the rail should come out, it shouldn't hang up on the bottom half. Pictures?
And a side note, using a hacksaw on part of the truck were oil would wash the shavings down into the oil is a gerneally bad idea.
#3
#4
Did the lower half come out part way? You could try reinstalling the rail bolts, then reinstall the top half of the standpipe, then reverse to see if the lower half gets pushed back in all the way.
Or you can remove the cover of the evaporator housing to gain access:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-housing.html
Or you can remove the cover of the evaporator housing to gain access:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-housing.html
#5
#6
#7
Yes, except for the pulling the rail off so easy. In my picture you can see the standpipe sticking out of the bottom of the rail in disappearing into the head. The evaporator housing is preventing me from getting the rail completely out. I wasn't sure if there was a way to separate the pipe from the rail instead of removing the evaporator housing.
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#8
A couple options, I have read you can wrap the bottom of top half of the standpipe that came out with a couple layers of electric tape and tap it back in then pull the whole thing out, or needle nose vise grips will just reach the bottom half and leverage it out with a pry bar. It should come out with just a little more pressure than it took to get the top half of the standpipe out.
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#9
I made this tool for pulling the stand pipe out. I'll look and see
if I can find the post I made about it.
The screw expands the rubber hose and that will grip the inside
of the pipe to let you pull it out.
The host is 1/4" ID and I think 3/8 OD The bolt was a 1/4 20 socket screw
not sure on how long and the top is a threaded ****. The silver things are 2
rivnuts with small grip heads so that it will fit down into the pipe and
are aluminum so that they don't scratch.
#10
Practice with the drivers side lower part of the standpipe(on my truck the whole unit on drivers side came out easy) using whatever your can find to wedge in enough that will let you pull it out. I loosened the oil rail and did not remove the ac box. Oil rail for me had to be loose to enable the new pipe to go in as one piece. IIRC 69CJ said that he had installed the new lower half of the standpipe and then inserted the upper half. Might look for those posts in march,april of this year. Yakiko's examples I think would work great.
#11
You see the "T" handle tool in the center?
That is where I got my idea from. I need to improve it a bit but
it should do the trick.
Tool OTC 303-1164 As this edit the tool is going for this much on Ebay. US $151.97.
For what it is I have one word on the price. OUCH!
I did a little editing to get the image back. It seemed to have gone MIA
That is where I got my idea from. I need to improve it a bit but
it should do the trick.
Tool OTC 303-1164 As this edit the tool is going for this much on Ebay. US $151.97.
For what it is I have one word on the price. OUCH!
I did a little editing to get the image back. It seemed to have gone MIA
Last edited by Yahiko; 05-15-2019 at 04:17 AM. Reason: Update missing image and some text.
#12
#13
#14
Thank you all for your input. I wound up removing the right front wheel, loosened the fender, removed the wheel well liner, and evaporator cover. That allowed me enough room to remove the rail and tube. Plus, it will allow me the room to install the new tube. Granted it added some significant time to the repair, but I have the time.
#15
A couple options, I have read you can wrap the bottom of top half of the standpipe that came out with a couple layers of electric tape and tap it back in then pull the whole thing out, or needle nose vise grips will just reach the bottom half and leverage it out with a pry bar. It should come out with just a little more pressure than it took to get the top half of the standpipe out.
The passenger side standpipe came out as one piece which I separated so I could pull each out individually without having to loosen the oil rail to clear the evap box. The lower part of the standpipe on the driver side, however, did not come out with the upper. I used the electrical tape technique and it worked like a charm.
I wiped the oil off the upper piece, then degreased the lower part of it with some electrical contact cleaner and a paper towell, and put 2 1/2 to 3 wraps stretched tightly to the lower part. I had to tap it in with a mallet to get it started screwing in, carefully so as not to damage the threads, then screwed it in to bottom. Unscrewed it and pulled them both out as a single piece. One less wrap might have got it, but this worked the first time for me.
Wrap the tape stretched tightly on the inner bevel point so the tape edge doesn't roll back when pushing it in. Pic of it below as it came out in one piece.
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