if someone can please help me before tomorrow morning it would be most appreciated, so I replaced my faulty injectors today #2 and #4 tearing into the truck was a sinch thanks to all the help I got from the website, however putting it back together something unexpected stopped me from completeing the job I had an extremely hard time getting the oil rail back on the truck is feb,2004 build date it has the wavy oil rail not the log anyway I get all the injectors lined up with the spouts and had a hard time with the standpipe I believe it is called the really long thin in diameter pipe that comes out near the rear two injectors I get it lined in and push down on the oil rail and then give it a little love tap with my hand and it felt like the stand pipe clicked into the oil rail however the holes for the t30 torx bits are not flush on the head to the oil rail are they supposed to be flush? should I put them on and tighten it down and it will site flush? did I break something? what could be going on I have been extremely delicate with everything I did not manhandle the truck is going to sit overnight now with the oil rail still lined up and I will continue my project in the morning, I will be waking up at 5am to get a jump start on this any info while I am online would be EXTREMELY helpful thanks all of you

 

bump


anyone had this happen?

 

Okay, this is a late-build '04 with the wavy rail you are attempting to re-install. During removal, I prefer to remove the standpipe first, and then the rail itself afterward, to facilitate re-installation. The way I do it, is situate the rail by aligning the four ball tubes into the tops of the injectors first, and then finesse the rail slightly, so as to align all nine holes properly. Once you have the rail installed, and all nine TX-30 bolts started a few threads by hand, then carefully install the standpipe into its proper position, bottoming out inside the branch tube. Once all is started, tighten all oil rail bolts, and then the standpipe.

 

Thank you for your response Chan! I removed the whole rail without removing the stand pipe was that bad? I saw there was a 1/2" square drive over where the standpipe was I'm thinking I'll do kind of what you do, I'll go out in the morning pull the rail off and remove that 1/2" square drive for the stand pipe then refit the oil rail and then would I be able to slide the stand pipe in from where I removed the square drive then put the top on?

 

YES. That's exactly what I meant. And yes, on a late-2004 it is a 1/2" square drive to remove. On late-2005 and up, it is a 6mm allen head.

 

Ahh such a relief to hear I can do that here I scared the daylights out of myself thinking I messed something up I'll be sure to let you know how she runs afterwerds! besides the injectors I will also be trying shell rotella t6, no oil additives, oem oil filter, and I will also do a coolant flush when I drained my coolant there was a bit of sand gritty stuff that came out so I will do the flush, what would you recommend chan? the motorcraft gold coolant or should I try an extended life coolant?(not for service intervals but because I have been told some are better than the ford gold ) my truck is not under warrenty aswell

 

To err on the side of caution, I would use Ford's gold coolant.

 

gotcha, also how hard will it be to start the truck? and how long will it take to purge the air?

 

When I have mine apart I had to crank for about a minute and then she fired right up. I have been told any where from 1 - 2 minutes. don't crank it continuous it could burn out your starter. I cranked for 20secs and then gave it a few minute break.

P.S> Don't force the oil rail on take you time it should sit flush with out tightening any bolts. You have to push lightly but that is it....


Hope this helps.

 

thanks for the tips!

 

Zerex GO-5 is the same as the Ford Premium Gold at about 1/2 the price at Napa.