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Now that I have solved my shift **** problem, my next task is to figure out what I am missing with the heater. Does anyone have a picture that shows how the heater is connected in the cabin, under the dash. My heater blows hot air all the time, and I am suspecting I am missing some bits and pieces. I have attached some images of what I'm looking at, so if someone could help me identify what I'm missing, I would greatly appreciate it.
i don't have the specifics of what you're asking, but you're atleast missing your defrost ducts. i would guess if you have heat all the time, the valve that your controls connect to via cable in the engine bay on the heater hoses isn't closing all the way.
That's what I figured, at least as far as the ducts were concerned. I think it looks like I need two flexible tubes to connect to the defrost diffuser. And maybe some other pieces that go onto that plastic piece that says "OFF" "DEF" "ON" And yes, I have heat all the time, but nothing come out of the defroster vents.
I have attached images of the hose connections to the heater, and images of the heater control cable in positions of "Low" and "Warm" Quation #1: Are the hoses connected correctly? Question #2: Since it doesn't make any difference which position the engine bay cable control is in, I still get hot air: does that mean what ever the cable is controlling is faulty?
By the way, there is no adjustment I can see, as both ends of the cable are fixed.
By the way, what is that red doo-hickey on the other hose?
Are the hoses connected correctly? Slide switch in "Low" position; connector in engine bay full forward Connector full forward; slide switch in "Low" position Slide switch in "Warm" position; connector in engine bay full back toward firewall Connector full back toward firewall; slide switch in "Warm" position
Last edited by zippospeedcat; 05-21-2024 at 10:16 PM.
Reason: Add comment regarding fixed cable length; red doo-hickey
The adjustment is made by loosening the clamp that holds the sleeve in place. Moving the sleeve forward or back adjusts how far open or shut it can go.
disconnect the wire from the valve and test to see that at full closed the air is cool.
Here are a couple of threads talking about hose routing & the temp control valve. My valve was rusted inside and would not move. The red item on your one hose is for flushing out the cooling system, they would hook up a flushing machine to it.
Well, imagine my surprise! I ordered a new heater valve, but in the meantime was able to pick up a used one at a local Ford Truck yard. I examined the used valve I got and the valve worked smoothly, so I removed the one in my truck, and looked at it. The inside looked exactly the same as the one I got from the Ford yard and worked the same, but I thought "Oh well, let's try it." And whaddya know - NO hot air when the valve is off. What I don't understand is why the old one in my truck didn't seem to be closing even though the cable was bottomed out at the stop and looked and operated like the one from the Ford yard. Somehow, hot water was getting around the closing mechanism, even though ti wasn't obvious how.
Thanks for all the help on this little episode. Now it's on to replacing the defroster ducts
Here are a couple of threads talking about hose routing & the temp control valve. My valve was rusted inside and would not move. The red item on your one hose is for flushing out the cooling system, they would hook up a flushing machine to it.
Actually the red tee is part of a Prestone backflushing kit where you hook a garden hose to it, add the nozzle to the radiator opening to direct the outgoing fluid, and turn the water on. You got them from your local auto parts store. I have used several of them.
05-16-2024, 12:27 AM
