I would say the odds are high. The packs last so long, they usually get tested and transferred to a reman if they pass. A bad test or just it failed not long after. You just never know. With new parts you still never know. You might try thinking you're getting ahead by replacing something before it goes, but with the way parts are made these days, often an old used part is better quality anyway. hahaha it's a crap shoot.

I had one that passed and transferred to a reman too. Way down deep in the connector pins there was corrosion though and it would throw solenoid codes from time to time. After a few cleanings and still acting up, that was it. I just swapped it out and it's been great for many years. Should the trans shop have seen that though?......Yeah probably, but it's just one of those things.

 

Frustrating day, took van back to the builder and we pulled the pan with the intent to swap the solenoid pack, he saw one of the nuts on the threaded studs was almost completely backed off and was so fixated that’s what was causing the line pressure to leak at temp he said no need to swap the pack. Torqued everything back down, new filter, filled with fresh fluid, warmed it up and took it for a test drive………….same problem continued. I even told the guy we should swap it since we’re there and already did all the work to expose it.

 

I was having these problems to begin with, that’s what lead to the rebuild. Same problem carried over after build.

 

Frustrating because my wife and I need to drive this van down to our next destination in FL in the next week or two.

 

Checked radiator and fluid today when pulled the pan, no cross contamination. Coolant is clean and ATF was cherry red

 

What did he say when snugging up the nut didn't fix it? Did he say he'll check the pack again? Why didn't he right then, once he saw it didn't fix it? Is he even pulling the codes himself to see code 99? It's a shame you're here, because he should have addressed this issue before a reman. The old trans was probably just fine. Probably only needed a solenoid pack, given you're right back where you started. You probably hate to hear this, but I suspect it and you probably do too. How much trust do you have that he truly tested the pack in the first place?

 

The problem followed the transmission and so did the solenoid pack.......

 

Checked radiator and fluid today when pulled the pan, no cross contamination. Coolant is clean and ATF was cherry red

 

sure did! I’m probably going to swap the damn thing myself at this point. It’s just hard because I’m pretty understanding and forgiving. I know people miss things and or get closed minded when it comes to their own skills. Hell it could be swapped and still have the issue, however we would know for certain that it’s not the pack. Seemed silly to me he didn’t swap it. I even aid, I hope I’m wrong about this.

 

He actually seems like a pretty well intended guy, though what I think his fault is he gets tunnel vision in on the first thing he sees and doesn’t consider other variables. He said he will open it back up and take it all the way back down if he needs to. I’m going to source a new solenoid pack for him anyway. The one he was intending to put in mine looked like it was pulled from another trans and not reman/new anyway. And a transmission controller (TECA) just in case.
Snapped these while we had it open.

All that said, I want to not assume myself. Until it’s fixed I still don’t know what’s at fault here.

 

Code 99 - Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure isn't an assumption though. It's a known. You always want to start with codes. Never ignore them, unless you know you have a reason to.
There's no good, known reason to ignore this failure. Especially not twice. He can reman the trans 100 more times,but all those steels and clutches are not going to remove this failed solenoid (or wiring or possibly TECA, though unlikely) if he keeps putting it back in there.

That's good though, in that it seems like he's going to make it right in the end. He's just having a hard time getting there. Sounds like you're on your way to helping him get there.

 

Hey FordF250XDXLT I say another thread where you had posted something about clipping back the fuel filter heater wire. I left mine just dangling over one of the hard fuel lines when I modified my FF to eliminate it. Is it possible that it’s causing an issue with the trans? I figured since it has a rubber boot over the single wire it’s likely never going to be an issue but figured I would ask.

 

Nope, that would be an unrelated issue to this. If that shorted out and blew the fuse, the trans would have no power and you'd have high gear in D position. That's why I recommend not keeping that plugged in. When I got my F450, that fitting was slowly leaking, shorting out and it burned out something in the trans unit, making the OD light glow dim all the time. (confirmed by replacing the TECA). I snipped that fuel heater line, drilled, tapped and plugged that silly fuel filter heating element hole, and got this circuit removed from sharing the E4OD power relay. They tapped in to use power for that, due to cost on the assembly line, but it should have never been done. No one should have that hooked up anymore and those who feel they need their truck to be "oem to be cool" should be running their own fused power source to that, if they feel they really need that.

It's not needed, save maybe.... well if I lived in Alaska or some place where it was -20F often, ok. You know what, I'd want a fuel filter heater, but I wouldn't frig with that oem leak prone crap and risk my trans power or my engine from running because of air in the system, I would buy one of those universal fuel filter heater wraps and wire it up with a fused relay, and a toggle switch in the cab, so on that -20F or lower days I could have that bit extra fuel anti-gel protection.

Anyway, there are quirks and tips to address some things on the old trucks, but that's not anything you have going on here. Totally unrelated. You won't need to worry about such things, where your headed; Florida.

If you get bored though, and you can figure out how to unhook and flip over your fuse box under the hood. If you can trace that line back to the fuse panel and snip it right where it comes out from there so it can never short out, that would be ideal........but so long as you hung it up somewhere it can't short, that's ok too.

Code 99 is this trucks #1 issue. Totally unrelated........but still good to know.

 

Ok possible development in symptoms. I think it may not be temp related. I just made 3 back to back 20-30 min drives and observed the following. First drive at operating temp, shifted fine and smoothly the entire time. Shut off the truck for about 15 min, hopped back in and it started shifting early again. It was like driving a completely different truck. Drove it home 25 min then shut it off. Re adjusted the TPS sensor to 1.15.vdc then took it for another drive. Drove 35 min and it drove perfectly again. Turned the truck off at sat for about 15 min then started driving back home. Again it started shifting poorly the whole way back. Made a stop at the auto parts store along the way where I shut it off for 10 min, hopped back in to drive 10 min home and it drove perfectly.

Something else I noticed during the voltage adjustment today. When I applied pressure to the throttle linkage towards the driver or passenger sides I saw a noticeable drop or rise in the voltage being read. It also appeared to create a voltage dip where it would sweep from idle to WOT. Wish I could post a video to show it. Is that normal behavior in the throttle assembly and voltage interaction?

Now i’m thinking it’s triggered randomly at start. Is that symptomatic of a faulty pack? Maybe the PCM is at play? Thoughts?

 

Yeah, code 99 is not the trans temp sensor fault code. Although all the solenoids are together on the block, they do not work the same. Your fault code is Electronic Pressure Control (EPC). You should not be driving the truck with this fault. Your Trans controller cannot provide the correct electronic pressure to your trans. Driving it, will put unnecessary ware on the trans and could lead to more problems......far more problems. Your problem is already known. Don't try and drive it to figure it out. The code already told you.

As for the TPS, I've already told that too is not properly set. FORD tells us how to set this. FORD knew best. If you feel like it's holding gears too long, cheat it a little if you feel you must, but I wouldn't go as low as 1.15V Maybe 1.18 -1.19. You should set it according to this exactly for now actually, and don't mess with it until code 99 is resolved. Without it shifting properly, you'll never know how it will shift once it's fixed anyway with the EPC all over the place.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ions-only.html


Set this properly and do not try to attempt to fix code 99 with the TPS. This doesn't change that. It's unrelated.

Stay focused.

THIS is your problem:
Code 99 - Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure - Yes, this is one of the solenoids on the pack.








That will remain your problem until it's fixed. There's no way around it. Testing it is actually VERY easy, You'll be messy, but drop the pan, pull the filter, unbolt it, unhook the wire, pop it down out of there (you don't have a repair plug ou can just plug into it)
and put on a clean surface.
Get out your multi meter and follow the instruction is the prior photo of what it should read for resistance. If it's not within specs, which it's probably not, since you already tested the line from TECA to the solenoid pack plug, right? I think you claimed you did that already. Do it again anyway, making sure all wires reads 0 ohms and if the solenoid isn't within like, what was it? 5 ohms or so, right?
Also note this: Apply 12v power to the + pin of the EPC and ground the - pin. When you ground the - pin with power supplied to the +, you should hear it click on/of as you connect ground and remove it........No click......bad solenoid. Replace the pack. Same if it doesn't read within spec of resistance.



Toss the sucker and put a new pack in. Tighten to 100 inch lbs, plug your wire back in, top the fluid back up and Bobs your uncle, and your on your way to the sunshine state.

But your trans guy should know all this..........but if he doesn't well, ok you can't possibly learn all the ins and outs of every trans out there I guess.
If it's within spec, and all your wires have 0 resistance from TECA to Solenoid pack plug, then and only then, would I blame the TECA and replace it (with a '94 TECA).

Just keep this in mind:
The odds of a poor connection (corroded wire/bad wire, poor pin connection) causing code 99 = 95%
The odds of a failed solenoid pack 4%
The odds of a failed TECA 1%

That's not exact of course, that's my best guess, but I bet it's VERY close! Maybe I should have left a % for something else, but I don't know what else could fail to set this code......I'm pretty sure this is it.




Oh. Almost forgot, but note solenoid packs are year specific. If you need to replace it; be sure to use the PRE 1995 pack. That's the '89-94 pack for IDI trucks with the E4OD. They take "good" effort to pop in and out......Don't be afraid of it.
Any good reman or used according to budget is good. They rarely fail. I would trust a tested used one in my work trucks that I count on to make money, so. If you can afford a reman pack just the same.....go with that. You'll get a brand new, clean electrical connector installed in it. Never mind the nice new solenoids haha this is more important. (joke placing emphases on how vital clean connectors are so important.)