wondering what the number is for a stock fuel pump,looking at upgrading to one that is 80 gph(holley) also should the fuel filter be full of fuel at all times ? mine is a 3/8 fram clear filter and only seems to have about 1/2" of fuel

 

1. The filter may not always be full of fuel depending on the orientation of it.
2. Lose the glass filter, they break, shatter, and ignite their contents once they break.

 

I fought what I thought was vapor lock in my 460 for years. It only happened when towing and on long uphill grades. It finally dawned on me that the darn stock fuel pump couldn't keep up. I installed the Mallory 110 series 90gph electric pump. The only problem with these pumps is the commutators go out after about 30,000 miles. The brushes are still good but the brass on the commutator is gone.

The problem with the stock fuel pumps is the automotive pump and the truck pump are all cross-referenced to the same number now days. The darn pumps just won't keep up with the heavy demand of towing. Carter, Holley, Edelbrock and a few others make High volume mechanical pumps. I haven't tried one so I can't comment on their effectiveness.

As far as the glass filters go, I have been using the Mr. Gasket 9706 series type for 25 years or more. These things are made out of 1/8-inch thick glass and I have never had one break. The way the are designed, I don't think you could break one with a direct blow from a hammer. Although, Mr. Gasket does state that the are for use on race cars only.

 

I know exactly of what filter you speak. I *hate* them. I've seen one break recently, wasn't pretty. I have all hard line from my carb to my fuel pump with a filter that uses fittings on my Cougar. Previous owner of my truck of course goes a puts one of these glass things. To each his own I suppose.

 

For a fuel filter I am partial to the marine water/fuel filters spin ons. They are cheap if you buy the aftermarket ones and they have a large capacity for big engines (they are used on the 502 and 540 CID marine engines). I've never had a fuel problem since I started running them on my cars and trucks. I dump the filter every year into a jar to see what kind of dirt and water they collected when I install a new spin on filter, a whole 5 minute job and mostly that's getting the jar and the filter wrench out and opening the hood.

 

You got my attention on this one bear, Summit shows a G1501 for 29.95. The elements are 9.88. Is this the type of filter you are referring to?

 

That will work but what I was thinking of is this one from NAPA,
PN# BK 7511145 is the whole kit and
PN# BK 7511012 is the canister.
The kit is $26.99 and the canister replacement is $6.99. With this set up when you unscrew the filter, all the fuel is in the canister and you don't spill it all over the place.

 

Just curious, where are you guys mounting these?

 

Thanks for the info Bear. I have a fuel selector switch and electric pump mounted on the frame rail just under the drivers side. I think I will mount the filter there, between the fuel tank selector and the electric pump.

 

Mine usually get mounted on the left inner fender for easy access for changing the canister and ease of routing fuel hose. I've also rigged the filter before the mechanical fuel pump and between the pump and the carb. I prefer before the pump but with my '84 F250 with 460 with two electric pumps, one in each tank, that just isn't possible. But I haven't had a carb problem since I started running these filters.