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Does anyone know what the GPH rating is for the stock fuel pump is? I have the the bit mod kit with the spin on filter/water seperator. In the past I have been using an airtex helper pump that is rated at 35 GPH 4-5 psi between the tank and spin on filter. What does everyone think is this a help or a hindrance? I thought it seemed to help at low rpm's but beginning to wonder if it does more harm then good at high rpm's.
High RPMS is exactly where the fuel demand jumps. The information on the OEM is near-impossible to find... even from Bosch (the manufacturer). I hammered out the math last year and I came up with an estimate of about 55-60 GPH.
I have seen a number of members try and fail with "helper" pumps. I have tried pre-filtration/water separation, but that failed miserably as well. A plain ol' fuel strainer works best in front of the OEM. Many have tried and herald other pumps, but I have yet to find one as robust as ours. Careful reading of the fine print on almost any replacement pump (other than OEM) shows no indication it was designed to handle diesel in the first place, or go beyond a very limited odometer reading.
Our pump was specifically engineered (by Bosch, for Ford) from a blank sheet of paper to stand on it's own, delivering daunting doses of diesel to even bigger injectors than the stockers (AC 160s max). As if that wasn't enough, Bosch greatly extended the durability of the OEM pump by routing fuel through the brushes - keeping them lubed. If a gasser were to use our pump, it could leave one of those occasional burn scars on the shoulder of the freeway.
I may sound a bit exuberant about a lowly pump, but this particular pump is one of the most impressive bits of engineering I've seen... for something so mundane as getting diesel from point A to point B at pressure C.
Well, I, too am impressed with the durability of the stock pump. I have also successfully run a pre-pump filter and "booster pump" for nearly 100,000 miles. Granted, the Carter booster pump only lasted about 75K miles before having to be replaced while the stocker has successfully operated for 250,000 miles. I'm getting ready to switch over to the pre-pump strainer that Rich mentioned and will then move my existing filter and another pre-pump over to my Excursion. I'll keep the Carter booster pump in line on my truck, even with the strainer, but may end up eliminating it as well down the road.
Some of the diesel I run I really feel more comfortable eithe the spin on waster seperator. Just wish there was some way to make it all work.
All you really need is centrifugal force and a collection point lower than the filter output (water wants to sink). My system has all of that... without the restriction of a filter.
Rich... have you ever considered installing a small valve in the bottom of the housing for easy water drain capability? I think I'll look into that before I do my swap out.
Rich, I believe that Ford uses the same type pump in the gassers, only it's completely submerged in gasoline (for cooling). There doesn't seem to be a extra amount of Ford-colored burnt marks in the shoulder of the roads down here. Why would brushes that are arcing in gasoline ignite? There's no oxygen.
I have run my Dahl-100 with a two-micron element for about a hundred thousand miles so far, with no observed degradation in my fuel delivery. Of course, I am not adding any power to my stock engine, so it conceivably could give me a problem if I were ever "chip it".
The high-filtration elements actually pose more restriction than, say, a ten-micron does, but it's never given me a problem between changes, which average about every 30,000 miles. Maybe we just have cleaner fuel? Dun'no..... Asphaltene seems to be my biggest contaminant.
Water? Hardly ever any at all, though the Dahl comes with a small valve to drain it if necessary. I just find that valve a convenient way to drain some fuel to use as cleaning solvent for other stuff.
When using, it's actually preferable to install the cone-dispersion types on the suction side, as a drop in pressure assists separating out the water. A pre-filter "lift" pump counteracts any such assist.
Rich, I believe that Ford uses the same type pump in the gassers, only it's completely submerged in gasoline (for cooling). There doesn't seem to be a extra amount of Ford-colored burnt marks in the shoulder of the roads down here. Why would brushes that are arcing in gasoline ignite? There's no oxygen.
I agree there's no air in there to allow the fuel to ignite, but that sounds like pushing the envelope to me. I don't worry about diesel... it's a bugger to light if not atomized or wicked.
I thought about a water drain, but after dropping the tank 4 times, rebuilding the fuel bowl, and re-installing the pre-filtration/strainer 3 times, I've only ever found enough water to fill a 1/4 thimble (combined).
Running Stinky at stock power is no big deal for the OEM pump. It's when he's cuttin' loose at high RPMs that I must be careful with the fuel system layout. The wrong fitting or filter on the suction side can drop my fuel pressure to 20 PSI.
All you really need is centrifugal force and a collection point lower than the filter output (water wants to sink). My system has all of that... without the restriction of a filter.
Darn, I somehow missed that particular thread. Where did you get that Racor?
I did the hutch and harpoon mod, and my screens were clogged up.
Anyone know if there is some type of screen in the fuel pump that can reduce flow? Hate to have to go fass fuel, if I may just have a restriction there.
Looked at gph rating for Baldwin filter that strictly diesel sells with the hutch mod kit and it says 300gph. I have removed helper pump and truck is running amazing lower egt's less smoke etc. This is the first time I have ran without the helper pump since i reburned my chip with BTS tunes back in April when I got my tranny. I think I was shooting myself in the foot. I'm going to run with the spin on filter/water seperator and see how it runs. Fixing to make a trailer run grossing about 17k in couple days. I will report back with results.
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