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Reductant heater code P20BA came up after getting a CEL. Said heater was bad. I installed a new heater and got the same code. Won't clear.
Initial problem happened during a very cold spell. I drove it home and it was fine. Got up in the morning and hit the remote start and got the double flash saying something is wrong. I got an aftermarket heater and installed it. No change. Code won't clear. No problems prior to this. If it's not the heater and the harness looks good what else could be wrong?
I have heard something about testing the heater with an ohm meter but am not sure which connector to test.
I had to change the heater in my truck and the code cleared on it's own after a few drive cycles. I wouldn't use a aftermarket heater but hey it's in there already.
My truck is a 2016 and has 125K miles so it's not covered by the warranty. Is there a test that can be done to check the new heater without pulling it from the truck? I might go ahead and order the Ford part and try that. I hate just throwing money at it. If there was a way for the common man to be able to test and fix his own vehicle without guessing that would be nice. Instead I guess you have to buy their computer and diagnostic software in order to know what is really going on.
I have thought about deleting it but don't want that hassle when it comes to resale time. Not to mention that we are not sure how California like the rest of the country will end up with the current administration. As it stands now we don't have emission checks here. That is not guaranteed not to change in the next 4 years due to national pressure on the individual states.
Reductant heater code P20BA came up after getting a CEL. Said heater was bad. I installed a new heater and got the same code. Won't clear.
Initial problem happened during a very cold spell. I drove it home and it was fine. Got up in the morning and hit the remote start and got the double flash saying something is wrong. I got an aftermarket heater and installed it. No change. Code won't clear. No problems prior to this. If it's not the heater and the harness looks good what else could be wrong?
I have heard something about testing the heater with an ohm meter but am not sure which connector to test.
Ideas?
I assume you dropped the def tank and changed out the entire heater and level sensor assembly?
You can ohm out the heater pretty easily, but it'll be tough to get to with the tank installed. There are several wires in the connector to the heater/level sensor assembly, but the two bigest wires in the connector are to the heater. Ohm across those two pins to get a resistance of the new heater.
You can also use Forscan on a PCto watch the tank heater current draw and command the heater on and off.
Yes. I dropped the tank and cleaned the heater/level as a unit. I also changed out the pump while I was there. On the old heater I am getting 3.8 ohms. What should I have?
Yes. I dropped the tank and cleaned the heater/level as a unit. I also changed out the pump while I was there. On the old heater I am getting 3.8 ohms. What should I have?
I'm going to give this one more try. This link contains almost all the answers to the questions you have asked up to this point. Please spend some time and read through it. It contains videos, images and helpful tips for all things reductant heater related. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...sion-code.html
To specifically answer your last question this image should do it. Yes the resistance can be checked while still in the truck.
I got my heater from this place. I see they are a little more expensive than Amazon but I refuse to use a company as Woke as they are. Choice is yours I dont judge LOL https://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...ter-bc3z5j225l
If you live in Florida, and you got the P20BA, knowing you would likely never have a freezing issue, what would you advise.
2015 F250, 105K miles.
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Due to performance issues, repair it unfortunately. Derate has been a subject of debate over the years whether it does or doesn't, mine was 100% in minor derate with this issue. You won't notice it much daily driving like a reasonable person but WOT or dragging weight behind you and you'll quickly make the decision it needs fixing. For my 2011, I drove with the issue for two months though, started the engine, if I needed more HP cleared the DTC and had full power to do what I needed and the DTC remained clear until shutdown/restart. YMMV.
You can fix this in your driveway. I did mine. Bed careful you don't get any dirt in the hoses. Take some air and blow off the top of the connections before you disconnect them.