I’ve contacted Crane cams, Lunati cams, and Howard cams through their website ‘cam recommendation’ pages and to date none have replied, going on two weeks. I called Crane and Lunati and both tell me they are ‘backlogged’. So, while I am waiting, I thought I would ask here for recommendations.

I have a 1977 F-100 Ranger Flareside 2wd with the original 302 and Borg Warner T-18 4 spd manual transmission. I was told by the previous owner the engine has a ‘mild cam’ installed, but beyond that I have no additional info on the cam. It has an Edelbrock Performer intake under what I believe is the original Holley 2bbl carb. The exhaust manifolds are original cast iron mated to a crossover, side exit exhaust.

The rear axle is a 3:07 Dana 44. Tires are a standard street style radial on 15 x 7[?] rims.

I am not at all unhappy with the performance of the engine as it is now, but it is getting 'tired'. Total mileage is unkown but I expect it is near 200K or more and several cylinders are burning oil. I have acquired a ‘roller capable’ 5.0 block from a 1987 F-150 that I will build into a carbureted roller cam engine. I’m not likely to keep the current carburetor, but haven’t decided yet what carb to use. I will be using cast iron 5.0 heads from an 87 Bronco. I expect to tweak the compression a bit by using flat top pistons and taking a bit off the heads. I may also change to headers.

The truck is a daily driver, around town and highway/freeway use. I don’t do burnouts, street races, or cutting cookies in the local parking lots. The truck rarely carries any kind of a load, nor do I do any towing of anything other than a small utility trailer.

With regard to performance, I am looking for immediate throttle response and power when needed to pass other vehicles on the road, or when climbing long grades up mountain passes, etc. When I want the truck to go, I want it to GO.

Lastly, around my area the gasoline used is 10% ethanol blend. I typically burn regular grade.

If anyone has any specific recommendation/experience in choosing a camshaft that would fit my requirements, I would appreciate the help. Thanks.

 

My advice is to contact Brent Lykins at Lykins Motorsports. he'll take all your information and spec you a custom grind from one of the major brands and have it delivered to you for about $50 more than a generic off the shelf cam. He's a Ford expert but I'm having him do all my cams from now on it's a no brainer.

 

Anyone that knows camshafts is going to ask you few questions, like bore & stroke, compression ratio, pistons, heads, a rough flow estimate, etc. A cam is pretty far down on your list at this point.

 

I can't tell you how much I appreciate this info, sixpack. I was in contact with Brent today and will be ordering a cam and lifters from him for my truck. Props on the way.

Bruce

 

What is the elevation where you live at?

One of the things to look at when selecting and installing a camshaft, is the amount of advance, if any. Most (all?) aftermarket camshafts already have maybe 2° of advance ground in. The cam grinder will recommend installing it "straight up". But it's important to understand what this really means. The cam may or may not end up there at installation, this is the reason for degreeing in a camshaft. All the different manufacturing tolerances inside the engine tend to kind of cancel each other out, though not always. Sometimes, they will stack up in one direction. Sometimes major errors in keyway locations. Sometimes cam grinders screw up. (If you like to gamble, and don't mind wasted effort and expense and frustration, don't worry about it.)

Consequently while the cam might be intended to be installed "straight up", it is important to understand what this actually means. At higher altitudes there are some tricks to making an engine more responsive, and especially a truck hauling loads in the bed.

A stock OEM camshaft can be installed in an advanced or retarded position +/- 6° or 8° say, on either side of "straight up", to change the engine characteristics. Generally an advanced position means more grunt and torque down low. Retarded camshaft phasing means a higher top end speed. Has to do with the way cylinders fill with fuel, dynamic compression, intake valve closing events, blah blah. All I know, is a few degrees one way or another can start to add up and make a big difference.

By careful selection of the correct grind and degreeing the camshaft in, you will be a whole lot happier than if you are "unlucky".

 

440 SixPack - Thank you for this information. Your reply was helpful.

 

Something else you may want to consider are those tall gears, which don't help your desire for instant seat-of-the-pants acceleration. 3.73 gearing will noticeably help, given what I know about your truck from this thread.
- IH

 

Just posting a follow up to my original post regarding my search for a camshaft. It has been 18 days since I submitted cam recommendations through the websites of the above mentioned cam manufacturers. To date I have had no response from any of them even though I've contacted two of the three since to ask why the delay? I was told by one they had email issues. The other stated they were swamped with requests and backlogged.
I have written off all of them.

Yesterday I took 440 SixPack's advice and emailed Brent Lykins at Lykins Motorsports with my request including all the vehicle, engine, and desired performance details. It was a lengthy email. One hour and six minutes later I had a reply and recommendation from him. Today I mailed him an order.
The big cam manufacturers should take note of Lykins Motorsports and learn how to run a business that takes customer service seriously.

Thanks again 440 SixPack for your advice.

 

Glad you guys had as good of experience with Brent as I have. the last cam he did for me was the roller cam for my 488 CJ in my '76 high boy. no off the shelf cam would be quite right for this application and the build I have so Brent got me a custom that would have the nice idle I wanted yet perform well. he hit it perfectly and I couldn't be happier .

For a few buck extra you get exactly what you need rather than a generic compromise cam. why not.