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Shall I use 3M Black weatherstrip adhesive or screws or both?
Last year I bought the flexible window run fuzzies the same place I bought the straight division bar stock, Restoration Specialties in PA. I did not want the division bar window run with the stainless attached which is all the repop houses sell. My 55 is the standard cab and it needesd black painted division bars.
Only after I bought it did I realize they make stuff with the little buttons to pop into the holes in the door. Like this:
My body man's helper stuck it in just so. I planned on using 3M black adhesive to bond it to the pieces where those holes are in the door above the window opening. Do you think this will hold it in place or should I put little screws thru the window run and I to the holes in the door? There are only 2 places that it is drooping now, at the division bar end and about halfway up the back of the window.
Here is a pic of the driver's side. You can see where it bulges out at the rear of the window. With the window down it hangs down by the division bar.
I used screws, most likely due to my lack of commitment as I seem to put things in and take them back out due to an oversite or missed step. Glad I didnt use adhesive as it turned out to be the case. small self tappers but I predrill anyhow. I just put tape near the existing holes for spacing, and happy with the end result
My rule of thumb ABE is never use hardware if you can use glue . You can all ways use hardware later if it dose not work but it's harder to fix holes .
I'm not sure what's stock on a 55, but it would not be unusual for the window channels to be attached with screws. I know the older trucks are. The screws would be tiny flat head types, similar to as shown below. The trick is to make sure they're screwed in far enough that the head is sunken into the rubber base enough there's no chance the window will contact the head when rolled up, but obviously not so far you put the screw all the way through.
I'm not sure what's stock on a 55, but it would not be unusual for the window channels to be attached with screws. I know the older trucks are. The screws would be tiny flat head types, similar to as shown below. The trick is to make sure they're screwed in far enough that the head is sunken into the rubber base enough there's no chance the window will contact the head when rolled up, but obviously not so far you put the screw all the way through.
Here is what was original on 55's. The window run had little nubs that were pushed into the holes.
I've used 3M adhesive on Volvo vent windows in the past, and it didn't hold up for too long. I prepped everything properly (and have used it for other longer lasting projects in the past), but I used the windows quite often and this seems to have had an effect on the long-term holding power of the adhesive in this scenario. My guess is there wasn't a lot of surface area for the adhesive to grab onto, so maybe that's why it failed.
I do agree that using screws (while not perfectly aesthetic) would not have been out of place for this piece in the time period the truck came from.
I do agree that using screws (while not perfectly aesthetic) would not have been out of place for this piece in the time period the truck came from.
Actually, once installed, you can't see the screws. They're installed inside the window track, attaching the channel liner to the braces in the window opening in the door shell.
Abe once you get that vent window put back in, please come to Arkansas and help me install new rubber around mine. Kind of dreading that job doesn't look fun!
Abe once you get that vent window put back in, please come to Arkansas and help me install new rubber around mine. Kind of dreading that job doesn't look fun!
That's an old picture from early April. The vent window is in. It is not that hard to put the vent rubber on.
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