Time to replace my air filter. Do I need to get a Motorcraft filter or can I get a Fram, STP, etc.
I know on the 6.0s you had to get OEM but not sure on 6.7 as I've only had it a year now.

 

OEM never hurts. Is it required? Someone else will have to answer that question.


https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/...es-trucks.html
https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/...w-plowing.html

 

It is not required to use Motorcraft. Use the filters you feel comfortable using. I will probably use Fram or similar when I change next time since the Prem Maintenance Plan with Ford has expired.

 

Thanks guys. I'll just get the motorcraft and go on down the road

 

Ok guys, when are you changing the paper air filters? Manual says the foam job at 40k mikes; wait for indicator before changing the paper one.

 

I use my truck mostly to tow with, so I use the Extreme Duty or even earlier recommendations. I changed both of mine at 25,000 miles.

 

Monty,

Having switched to the full site where I can see your signature, it is easy to see why you have alignment issues. The 5er's pin is causing a lot of rear end sag and also lifting the front end of the truck quite a bit. It also looks like the 5er is running nose high already.

I have had the same issue since I moved from a "real" 450 down to a derated 450 and now a 350. With nearly 4k on the pin, i needed a revised spring set or air bags. I opted for the later with independent left and right bags, and an on board compressor that serves other needs too. Now that 80% of time is towing, I would go with the spring set.

All of that said, i also am looking at your already nose high on the 5er. Reducing truck sag would make that a lot worse. Even if you lowered your front end, which you don't want to do, the 5er would still be nose high.

Have the spring shackles been raised to the higher 4x4 position? If this has already been done, you might look into flipping the axles on the 5er so they are under the springs. If that is too high, you then lower the shackles.

I say look at the undercarriage on the 5er first only because it looks like if you lower your hitch height, or raise your 5er's pinbox, you will not have enough (4-5 inches) clearance between the truck's bed siderails and tge bottom of tge 5er. Hitches usually adjyst by the inch, pinboxes in 2-inch increments.

Setting the 5er so it rides level when hitched will reduce the pin load quite a bit. That alone will reduce the sag at the rear end of the truck.

The truck bed deck heights and siderails heights keep getting higher and higher, the 17's being almost 2 inches taller than the 16's and the 08's being 1.5 inches taller than the 07's. 5er heights get raised 1-2 model years later. Planned obsolescence or idiocy.

Maybe a heavy air filter will help lower the front end??

 

I was going to wait for the indicator but, after 15,000 miles the filter looked trashed. Filter is cheap enough that I don't mind.

 

I had over 25k on mine but the filter minder showed good. I just changed it anyway. $23 from oreilly auto

 

I've never seen my indicator any shade other than green, but I wait for the dash message to come on for fuel filter change, and I do the air filter at the same time. It keeps it easier for me to remember that way. I do oil and oil filter changes by the minder, then do my air filter when the fuel filter minder comes on.

 

Thanks for this. I’m going to start doing the same thing and change air filter with fuel filters. My indicator was still green too after 28k miles

 

Remember guys, air filters actually clean air better when they have some accumulated material in them. Earlt air filter changes works different than changing your oil more than recommended by the manufacturer.

You want some buildup in the air filters.

The key is to change them when they get so restrictive the engine looses some efficiency.

 

I just ripped my K&N out and put a Baldwin paper filter in. I am using my mobile to go through the site this morning too much of a PIA to paste the link to the other thread. That thread has a link to a site where a bunch of air filters were tested - if you haven't bought the filter yet you may want to check it out. They didn't test the Motorcraft filter. Oddly enough the A/C filter came out as the 'best'

When I took the K&N out I cleaned the entire air box and washed the foam filter with warm water. Kept rinsing it until the water was clean when I wrang it out. Threw it in the dryer on 'low heat' to make sure it was good and dry

 

In my opinion that works for oiled foam filters such as K&N, not for dry paper filters.

 

I would not use an after market air filter.... And this is why!