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Ok so I have a stock 02 7.3 6 speed manual with only 65,000 miles ... I want to figure out what gauges are a must for the set up Im going with ... Im doing a 5" turbo back straight pipe MBRP exhaust, S&B cold air intake, Wicked wheel 2, and a PHP Hydra tuner, Im not gonna use insane tunes seeing as the trucks gonna be mainly stock, mostly just mild horsepower gain tunes. So now im trying to figure out what gauges I need. Ive heard EGT is a must and some people say that Fuel pressure is also and others say it isnt. What gauges are indeed a MUST ? I plan on getting a glow shift triple or quad pillar ... All help is appreciated ... THANKS !!!
Ok so I have a stock 02 7.3 6 speed manual with only 65,000 miles ... I want to figure out what gauges are a must for the set up Im going with ... Im doing a 5" turbo back straight pipe MBRP exhaust, S&B cold air intake, Wicked wheel 2, and a PHP Hydra tuner, Im not gonna use insane tunes seeing as the trucks gonna be mainly stock, mostly just mild horsepower gain tunes. So now im trying to figure out what gauges I need. Ive heard EGT is a must and some people say that Fuel pressure is also and others say it isnt. What gauges are indeed a MUST ? I plan on getting a glow shift triple or quad pillar ... All help is appreciated ... THANKS !!!
I have the glow shift quad pillar set up in mine with EGT/pyro, Boost, fuel pressure and trans temp. Not sure how critical the trans temp is for you being that it is a manual transmission. You can get boost from a digital set up (check out Tugly, and his torque pro/tablet set up for ideas) that will give you everything, from the factory sensors, except fuel pressure and EGT's I believe.
Some will mention that glow shift aren't good gauges, but I have never had a problem out of any of mine, and for the price I paid (Amazon bundle I think I bought) they have been excellent.
I have the glow shift quad pillar set up in mine with EGT/pyro, Boost, fuel pressure and trans temp. Not sure how critical the trans temp is for you being that it is a manual transmission. You can get boost from a digital set up (check out Tugly, and his torque pro/tablet set up for ideas) that will give you everything, from the factory sensors, except fuel pressure and EGT's I believe.
Some will mention that glow shift aren't good gauges, but I have never had a problem out of any of mine, and for the price I paid (Amazon bundle I think I bought) they have been excellent.
Ive heard people ordering the glowshift packages off amazon for cheaper than off the glow shift website... When you order them off amazon are you able to custom create the kit right on amazon or how does it work ?
For analog gauges - I have dual EGTs and fuel pressure, because those sensors don't exist on the vehicle. The rest of the stuff I want is already on the OBDII port, which I monitor, log, and set alarms for on a table with Torque Pro. If you top about 31-32 PSI boost, you'll want an analog boost gauge. Since I can max out the MAP sensor (where the boost reading comes from), I bought a 60 PSI boost gauge and wired the fuel pressure to it through a switch. By doing this, I keep my analog gauges down to a count of 3, and I just check the fuel pressure gauge from time to time.
I didn't have too, it covered all that I needed. And yes it was cheaper than the website. If you do need to change any of it there is a place on the product page where you can contact the seller, I am sure it can't be that hard for them to change things for you.
One thing I did forget is that they forgot the screws and covers for mounting the pod to the pillar, I called them and the sent me a set no questions, I think I got them the day after or maybe two, they were quick to answer the phone and seemed really knowledgable when I took the opportunity to ask a couple of questions. The only tough part in the install was getting the pod/pillar combo mounted back into the truck (you screw them together and run your cables through them before you put it back in) the bottom pod fits really snugly against the dash. You will also need a tap and drill bit (1/8th NPT tap and size M bit IIRC) for the get probe. I picked these up from napa.
I did give you an auto trans answer even though you clearly wrote manual trans. You have no need for the transmission temp gauge.
<table width="100%" class="tborder" id="smilietable" border="0" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="6"><tbody><tr valign="top"><td class="alt2"></td><td class="alt2"></td></tr></tbody></table> So IMHO
#1) Fuel pressure.
#2) EGT.
I've got an 02 F350 6 speed with 530,000 miles on it. I've got an aeroforce scanguage that shows 2 readings at once but lets me scroll through several more, read codes, and run some tests. I've got the additional sending units that allows fuel pressure and EGT to be options.
I started with EGT, trans, and boost. I just bought fuel and another EGT. I have Torque Pro to monitor everything else now (including trans and, until recently, boost) . I installed the Turbomaster Wastegate Controller and Overboost Code Remover from Riffraff so my MAP doesn't see more than 24psi so the boost gage is a must for me now.
If I was doing this over and had Torque from the start (for my trans temp) I would put them in this order:
You can use Torque for trans and boost. Depending on what tunes you get for your Hydra (and any wastegate mods) you will be knocking on the defueling door of >24psi boost unless you limit what your MAP sees...which is what Torque displays for boost.
If you don't want to use Torque (or similar) I would swap 4 and 5 (trans then another EGT).
You say you are staying "mostly stock" but out of the gate you are doing the intake, exhaust, turbo, and programming. PMS is already setting in. Next thing you know it's red line, green line, Hutch, Harpoon, and the list goes on. Once you get bitten, there's no cure!
Boost, fuel, and EGT would be the three I would go with seeing as how you have a manual. Then get a tablet with the Torque app that Rich has in his signature.
I am curious, why are you going with a 5 inch exhaust if you are staying with a mild stock configuration?
I have seen where there have been "complications" in getting the 5" downpipe to fit properly. If you are not going with big power, you will not need anything more than 4".
I have seen where there have been "complications" in getting the 5" downpipe to fit properly. If you are not going with big power, you will not need anything more than 4".
I can see that issue. I have a 4" downpipe that b-a-r-e-l-y fits past the transmission. I check it regularly since it clears that area (transmission pan, return line, and frame) by about 1/4". Unless the 5" downpipe is bent differently I don't see how it fits past there unless it runs lower than mine.
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