I'm getting my 79 Ranger XLT ready for paint. I'm going to remove the trim, badges and glass to help with cost and, I can't stress this enough, to make sure it is done correctly! I have found threads on removing and reinstalling the trim, but I haven't been able to find anything on removing the cowl badges or the FORD letters on the hood. Can anyone provide their experiences on removing and installation?

Any other painful lessons that I can learn from someone else, and not on my own, is very welcome as well.

 

Reverse fat fingered it. lol

 

A small flat tip screwdriver and a little prying at a time. Start at one end, get a small gap, then work the middle then the other end. Same for the hood letters.

Patience is all it takes or use the "get a gap and use a piece of wire trick", I like the flat tip screwdriver way.

Plastic "barrel" inserts will stay in, can not really be removed without destroying them, get new from JBG.

So you removing the outer grill shell? Remove the side marker light to see the very top bolt. Even get to it with a extension and a swivel joint.

Mirrors? Go easy on the loosening torque other wise you can break loose the nutsert that stays in the door. If so no panic, remove the inner door panel and grab it with some vice grips.

Removing the door handles? Again from the inside, 2 nuts and disconnect the rod it is off as an assembly. Door locks? Pull the tab on the end of the door. Also with the door panel off, lube time on the tracks. Also remove both bumpers, side marker lens and tail light lens. Gas flap?

 

Door locks... Pull clip visible with door open, unhook plastic clip by gently pushing off door lock rod by hand.

 

Also are you going to replace the anti rattle strips on each side of the window? And the rest of the window and door weather stripping?

Might as well at least remove the outer anti rattle strip that way the paint goes "deep" and you will not have a fresh paint/old paint deal, if you replace the strip later on.

See the door handle in my pic, old white and new blue. Thanks PO...

 

sanding down the truck will do your old one's in.On the topic of Badges,are the new ones you buy plastic chrome or are they the pot metal of the past? At home depot in the paint section,look for a sash bar ,buy 2 ,,,very handy

 

Thanks guys! Big help! I already replaced the weatherstripping and window runners, including the cat whiskers. I'll probably end up taking them out again to make the paint job that much better. I also lubed the window regulators and boy, did that make a huge difference.

If I end up going with new badges, is everybody's about the same?

 

No big difference in LMC versus Dennis Carpenter. You get what you pay for, with DC money well spent.

If you old ones can be cleaned up and repainted, there are a few threads on emblem overhaul, model paint and technique is discussed.

 

I saved this from long ago....

Paint Job Dos and Don'ts:

Do's:

Do remove everything you can do get better paint coverage. Why pay $80 an hour when it is something you can do? Remove the bumpers, trim, mouldings, mirrors, marker lights, tail lights/housings, grill inserts, grill shells, antenna, door handles, and anything else that is easily removable and will not be painted. Masking jobs by most bodyshops is usually pretty sloppy and not as careful as if you were doing the masking.

Do a thorough wash-job after removing the above BEFORE turning it in. The more it appears that you care for your rig, then the shop is more likely to respect your property. Plus, there'll be less chance of a spray gun blowing dirt out of some cranny and ending up on your fresh color.

Do bag and ziptie light harnesses left loose from the above steps. It'll keep the primer and color off the bulbs and wiring.

Do keep the tail lights mounted and one side view mirror to be somewhat street legal. You can leave the headlights and buckets installed. Remove the tail lights and side view mirror when you get to the shop. Bag and ziptie the loose pigtails.

Do buy a set of body gaskets/seals for when it is reassembled. Fresh lenses also make a world of difference....It's like putting on a clean pair of socks.

Do budget a 20-30 percent overage on the quoted cost. There's all sorts of lil things that can crop up at the body shop. For example, my Pontiac's bodywork became more extensive because they started tracing the rust.... from the rear end to the wheel arch. That was an extra grand to fix cuz the whole quarter panel needed work.

Do have a detailed work order specifying exactly what you want done and what they will do.

Do call the bodyshop ahead of time if you're gonna stop by to see the progress.

Do ask questions. If they don't feel like answering them or act as if you're an inconvenience or are a hassle, then take your business (and money) elsewhere.

Do inspect the bodyshop you're hiring. The cleanliness of the shop, especially the paint booth, is indicative of their overall attention to detail.

Do install a set of roller wheels and tires that you don't mind getting overspray on.

Do be flexible on a completion date. Shops working towards hard and fast deadlines sometimes results in hurried (and shoddy) work.

Do remove a couple of bed bolts and loosen the other bed bolts' nuts. Remember to tell 'em their loose. The shop will thank you for your consideration. You are removing the bed to have shoot the back of the cab and front of the bed, right? Right.

Do get to know the shop supervisor or foreman and take a look at what other projects they are working on.

Do keep track of your paint code. An OEM color is easiest to match wherever you go.. plus touch-up paint is only an auto parts store away.

Dont's:

Don't be a pest by calling every day, hour, or whatever.

Don't leave the cost open. Some guys I know go have signed off on time and materials and have gotten reamed. Have a signed quote in hand for the work that is specified on the work order. And that any change is subject to your approval. Before signing off on the extra work, go to the shop to do a firsthand inspection of what is causing the extra work. Get a change-order recorded and a written quote. Documentation is important!!!

Don't wash or wax the rig for at least a month or whatever period the painter tells you. Though dry, the paint really needs to cure and outgas thoroughly.
______

Don't forget to enjoy the process and do share your enthusiasm with the shop... I brought them a four cases of beer about a week after I got my Pontiac back.... They remembered me then, and they sure as heck know me now. And now have a relationship with a great shop.

 

I used fishing line to remove the badges off my mustang. I liked it better than the flathead screwdriver idea because you can't accidentally slip and put a nice gash in your paint. Then again I guess youre having it painted; I wasnt. Still liked the idea and it was pretty easy.

 

HIO my rep gun is jammed (barrel is hot from use here lately), so I will just say it here.

That is an awesome list and thank you again for being a very valuable FTE member.

 

X2 for HIO...you da man!!

 

HIO, Great list. Thanks so much!!

 

I love the orange plastic chisels you can buy at harbor freight.. they work great for removing emblems... weatherstrip.. door sealant, nasty black manual tranny cover sealant (followed by a 4500 psi steam cleaner).. they dont scratch.. and I resharpen mine all the time for new edges...

 

Glad to help fellas! Paying it forward because living is a lifelong experience.

Excellent tip. HF has lots of decent tools IMO... it's all about expectations and knowing what is good and not so good.