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Just got back my UOA from Blackstone the other day, what I would consider a positive report. This is going just over 1 year and just under 12k miles, adding (periodically, through the year) about 1 gallon of oil.
Oil: Amsoil AMEQT-EA 15-40 Full Synthetic.
Filter: Donaldson ELF7405
I am seriously no expert on this stuff Tom, so take what i am about to say with a huge grain of salt, but the way I am reading that report, your moly, which is an additive that helps with viscosity which helps lube the engine wear surfaces, is too low at that mileage.Your iron which I believe is a wear metal, looks a little high, but everything else looks good. Your air filtration looks good according to the silicon numbers, so whichever air filter you have has been doing it's job.
I am seriously no expert on this stuff Tom, so take what i am about to say with a huge grain of salt, but the way I am reading that report, your moly, which is an additive that helps with viscosity which helps lube the engine wear surfaces, is too low at that mileage.Your iron which I believe is a wear metal, looks a little high, but everything else looks good. Your air filtration looks good according to the silicon numbers, so whichever air filter you have has been doing it's job.
Molly was less than 1/2 of the average, (@14ppm vs. 26ppm Average.)
Iron is a tad high, (@28ppm with a 17ppm average)but you have to account for higher mileage on the oil. I'd like lower but 28ppm doesn't worry me.
The air filter (Donaldson's version of the 6637) lasted the life of the oil. Changed it the same time, along with the fuel filter.
Wow that is impressive. However, like stated above, the fact that the Moly is close to half would make me weary given that we continuously put our oil through harsh circumstances with the high pressure that it sees. Although, I dont exactly see anything saying that it is dangerous to run it this long, anyone that is running higher ICP pressures, larger injectors, or a non stock pump would be advised not to do it. Not saying it would run the risk of hurting the engine, but it COULD adversely effect performance if the oil shears or aerates easier.
I really need to start sending mine in for analysis. Going to be switching to the new shaefers synthetic here at my next change, and that might be a good time to start having it tested. Running my dual pumps I tend to change the oil at about 3000 miles, which generally coincides with a notice in the performance of the truck and sound at idle. I've gone to about 5000 before, and notices a HUGE difference in idle quality with just the oil change.
Good for you though! Seems that you have an excellent running truck! I'm all for going as long as possible with oil, specially with what it costs these days for quality oil.
I ran 10-12k on T6 with room to spare and no top off oil... so im not really surprised by your results. My times was much less than a year though. 3-6 months.
But I don't do that anymore. I run what ever is on sale (of my approved brands) and adjust accordingly.
I ran 10-12k on T6 with room to spare and no top off oil... so im not really surprised by your results. My times was much less than a year though. 3-6 months.
But I don't do that anymore. I run what ever is on sale (of my approved brands) and adjust accordingly.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab 3
Yeah, well I have a slow leak, so not topping off is not an option, Tried that once and it didn't go so well. lol
Add a bypass filter w/ a sampling port and then even longer intervals are not uncommon. I put a byp setup on both our 7.3's and have been running in the low to mid teens btw changes, take a sample @ about 7000-7500 then a sample about 14-15K when we change the oil. The 2nd sample is usually still ok but you can tell the oil's at EOL. Before we added the byp setup I tried going 12.5K btw changes and wasn't too happy with what I got back from blackstone so we put the bypass setups on. Our trucks do get pushed pretty hard though.
We've never tried the Donaldson filters, we are running Fleetguard or Mob-1 extended service filters w/ the bypass being either a Baldwin or Fleetguard. Did try a couple of Bosch filters, didn't see much of a difference but they were more expensive so we went back to Mob-1 w/ Baldwins for this change cycle.
Last edited by dagren99; Dec 26, 2013 at 01:41 PM.
Reason: left out filter types
Add a bypass filter w/ a sampling port and then even longer intervals are not uncommon. I put a byp setup on both our 7.3's and have been running in the low to mid teens btw changes, take a sample @ about 7000-7500 then a sample about 14-15K when we change the oil. The 2nd sample is usually still ok but you can tell the oil's at EOL. Before we added the byp setup I tried going 12.5K btw changes and wasn't too happy with what I got back from blackstone so we put the bypass setups on. Our trucks do get pushed pretty hard though.
We've never tried the Donaldson filters, we are running Fleetguard or Mob-1 extended service filters w/ the bypass being either a Baldwin or Fleetguard. Did try a couple of Bosch filters, didn't see much of a difference but they were more expensive so we went back to Mob-1 w/ Baldwins for this change cycle.
I was going to go the bypass route, but I figured where I am only changing my oil once a year as it is that it's not necessary. If I was putting on more miles I definitely would tho!
I am seriously no expert on this stuff Tom, so take what i am about to say with a huge grain of salt, but the way I am reading that report, your moly, which is an additive that helps with viscosity which helps lube the engine wear surfaces, is too low at that mileage.Your iron which I believe is a wear metal, looks a little high, but everything else looks good. Your air filtration looks good according to the silicon numbers, so whichever air filter you have has been doing it's job.
Moly use will vary oil to oil, Delo and Delvac seem to use it a lot but Rotella barely uses any so I wouldn't read into that too much.
Iron seems to be fine given the length of the run, most OEMs like to see Fe levels below 100ppm.
Potasium is dropping, which is good cause it can be indicative of a coolant leak into the oil system. I am sure the top off oil helped keep the TBN and viscosity up.
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