When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Installed my bypass filter today during an oil change. Everything went pretty smooth going by SpringerPops tutorial. When refilling with oil it appears that i may be slightly above max on the stick. If i had to guess i would say no more than a quart. Thought about driving around some to get the bypass filter to fill up and hopefully drop the level, no luck. Should i be concerned with slightly high oil level? Also, normally i fill up my filter with oil on the bench before installing on truck, but with the orifice so small that was not going to happen with the baldwin filter so i guess the filter is filled with pressure from the line. Dont see any other way to do that.
FYI , i was getting 10-12k intervals before with no bypass with Blackstone saying i could go further. What would one expect oil change interval to go to after bypass install?
Installed my bypass filter today during an oil change. Everything went pretty smooth going by SpringerPops tutorial. When refilling with oil it appears that i may be slightly above max on the stick. If i had to guess i would say no more than a quart. Thought about driving around some to get the bypass filter to fill up and hopefully drop the level, no luck. Should i be concerned with slightly high oil level? Also, normally i fill up my filter with oil on the bench before installing on truck, but with the orifice so small that was not going to happen with the baldwin filter so i guess the filter is filled with pressure from the line. Dont see any other way to do that.
FYI , i was getting 10-12k intervals before with no bypass with Blackstone saying i could go further. What would one expect oil change interval to go to after bypass install?
Depends on the oil.
I'm running Amsoil now in a regular filter, at 10K mile intervals... Eventually I want a dual-filter bypass and hope to do at least 20K mile intervals.
Designer oils are not really needed for at least that far for mine, but that's when my engine begins to shear the oil down to a high 30-weight and it goes to the recycler.
As said above, it might be brand-dependent. I've been using Delo and Baldwin over almost fifty years, and haven't had a lubrication-related problem (except for a 270 V-8 in a '55 Plymouth around 1963, but that was my own stupid fault). If it ain't broken, I'm not going to fix it!
You might be changing the bypass filter a couple of times during the oil change interval, but your lab reports will tell you better about that.
I don't think you'll be beating into the oil with the crank and cause foaming with only one quart over.
The referenced bypass system has a link in my sig file.
I would not attempt an extended oil drain interval without some kind of system to add additional extreme-fine filtration to the lube oil.
That's only what I did, and it works out well for me, but YMMV.
Ken, "woodnthings", has a similar installation, and it's listed in his sig file. Take a look at his, too, as it might be a better mounting location for your purposes.
Bypass is the way to go, glad it went well, if your driving habits are'nt wide open, and your truck is not over fueling the oil will last a long time, it also removes soot, thats a killer on diesel oil's. Also if it's over on the dip stick, let some out and keep it when it get's low add it back. With my bypass it goes down 1qrt every 10,000 miles or about once a year.
im going 20 on my changes, but im total 12 quarts. the guy i bought it from goes 25 on his 7.3 psd running 14 quarts. we use amsoil with the dual bypass. its a 15 micron main filter and a 2 micron large canister filter. i love the heck outta my system. you replace the 15 micron 1/2 way, replace the quart that goes with it and go the second 1/2 and replace both with the oil.
head unit
head unit installed
filters
theres enough hose given to run it nearly center of your front drivers side door outside frame rail.
Hopefully someone can clear this up for me, I was under the impression that the oil picked up by the lpop and sent threw the engine was filtered oil. Besides what is bypassed to the hpo res on start up. But I had another guy tell me in the filter housing a portion of oil is by passed all the time. Is this why y'all are running the extra filter? Is it to filter this by passed oil?
Hopefully someone can clear this up for me, I was under the impression that the oil picked up by the lpop and sent threw the engine was filtered oil. Besides what is bypassed to the hpo res on start up. But I had another guy tell me in the filter housing a portion of oil is by passed all the time. Is this why y'all are running the extra filter? Is it to filter this by passed oil?
I'll give it a try and I hope I understand your questions correctly...
The regular oil filter (ex. FL-1995) cleans all the oil sent through it, BUT in order to keep up with oil demand in the engine, the oil is only "coarsely" filtered. They are also called “full-flow” because 100% of the engine oil passes through them in normal operation. The efficiency is maybe 70% at 20 microns, so that the oil volume flow will stay high (critically important at startup). In fact, if the filter begins to become clogged too much, the filter bypass valve opens and diverts the oil from the filter unfiltered, to keep oil volume being delivered to crucial engine components high.
The bypass filter OTOH (ex. Baldwin B164) takes a small volume of the oil from the oil supply (after the regular oil filter) and pushes it through a very small micron filter (50% at 2 micron and 98% at 15 micron) to "polish" the oil by removing soot and other contaminants (that are too small for the regular filter to remove from the oil). So with the addition of a bypass filter it gives your engine the best of both worlds when added to your stock filter: full volume flow of filtered oil AND additional continuous filtering (though of a small fraction of all the oil in your engine) to remove the very small particles in your engine oil that the regular oil filter could not remove due to the filtering media in the filter and the engineering requirement design to keep oil volume high to critical engine components.
Wow! Just thought it was in case your regular filter gets stoped up! So now I have a different take on it. By pass set up = longevity! Thought it was strange how I was still finding brass in my res screen. This explains it! Thanks.
...
FYI , i was getting 10-12k intervals before with no bypass with Blackstone saying i could go further....
Originally Posted by ToMang07
...I'm running Amsoil now in a regular filter, at 10K mile intervals... Eventually I want a dual-filter bypass and hope to do at least 20K mile intervals...
Originally Posted by SpringerPop
I'm going between 15,000 and 17,000 on dino Delo....
Originally Posted by oreocreaming
im going 20 on my changes, but im total 12 quarts. the guy i bought it from goes 25 on his 7.3 psd running 14 quarts. we use amsoil with the dual bypass. its a 15 micron main filter and a 2 micron large canister filter. i love the heck outta my system. you replace the 15 micron 1/2 way, replace the quart that goes with it and go the second 1/2 and replace both with the oil.
head unit...
Very interesting info. Do any of you guys add any sort of periodic treatment to the oil to replenish the anti-foaming properties? (or is that a diesel oil myth???) I've been running Rotella T for as long as I can remember and I think I can tell when my oil gets gets around the 4000 mile mark because the injectors begin to sound slightly different. I have always assumed if there was any anti-foaming agent in the oil then it must be breaking down about that time. However I've never been able to prove that theory and my UOA reports don't seem to point to any potential issue with extended oil usage so it might all be in my head.
Originally Posted by jwhitetail
Bypass is the way to go, glad it went well, if your driving habits are'nt wide open, and your truck is not over fueling the oil will last a long time, it also removes soot, thats a killer on diesel oil's. Also if it's over on the dip stick, let some out and keep it when it get's low add it back. With my bypass it goes down 1qrt every 10,000 miles or about once a year.
Really? The bypass system will filter out the soot? My soot levels are 0.1% at 5300 miles and 0.3% at 8600 miles. Do you have any UOA readings of your soot levels? (I am assuming you are running a bypass system similar to Marv's or Ken's? I looked at Marv's UOA reports on his website and I can't see the soot readings...maybe Blackstone doesn't perform that measurement )
In case anyone is curious, here is my latest UOA with regular Rotella dino and factory oil filter system. I wanted to get a nice baseline sampling before I add the bypass system. Based on the readings I've been getting so far, I think I can benefit by installing a oil bypass filter system because I can extend my oil changes to get a more accurate report. Right now many of the wear metal readings are in the 1ppm or less, which doesn't really tell me much. The only number higher than 10ppm is Iron so extending my oil change intervals in combination with a better filtration system and regular lab sampling might give me better data. That's the idea anyway. I am thinking of doing the same thing with trans fluid as well...
Thank you very much. Looks like interesting info. I'll read the pages in more detail during lunch. I'll probably call the lab I am using and see how they measure soot. Probably the IR method...
Sadly no. I did not take pictures. I was going to take some this evening but it was raining when I got home today. I was in shock and watched the miracle of water fall from the sky (its been a while since we have gotten the wet stuff). But it looks like a carbon copy of your setup. Ill try to snap some pics later in the week.
Originally Posted by gchavez
Very interesting info. Do any of you guys add any sort of periodic treatment to the oil to replenish the anti-foaming properties? (or is that a diesel oil myth???) I've been running Rotella T for as long as I can remember and I think I can tell when my oil gets gets around the 4000 mile mark because the injectors begin to sound slightly different. I have always assumed if there was any anti-foaming agent in the oil then it must be breaking down about that time. However I've never been able to prove that theory and my UOA reports don't seem to point to any potential issue with extended oil usage so it might all be in my head.
I add one quart of the Lucas Synthetic Oil Treatment with every oil change. Not sure how much exactly it helps me, but whatever im doing seems to be working for me. If it aint broke dont fix it.
I had been doing 10,000 miles oil changes for 4 of the 5 yrs that i have had the truck, always use shell rotella t 15w 40, the last 4 or 5 changes i have added lucas oil treatment as well. I did 5000 mile intervals when i first got the truck but was told by someone else that i could 10k+ with the 4 gal of oil in the sump. I have been doing that for about the last 10 or so oil changes, not knowing if i was doing good or actually harming my truck by doing the long interval. I did my first oil sample back in November, with my second sample in Feb. First sample had 10,000 and recommended 12k next time. The second had 11,978 with recommendation I could go 14k. I did not do that this time, I only went 10k this interval since i had mobil delvac this go round. I didnt have the track record with the delvac so i didnt push it. Sending sample off this week. Will post results when i get it.
So If I understand this correctly (thanks Neal) Its function is similar to that of a coolant filter
It takes a small amount of oil each pass and fine filters the oil. ??