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slowly and methodically putting together my 300 back together after getting it back from the machine shop. taking my time, making sure everything is super clean, lubed and has correct fitment and/or tolerances...which is the point of this thread.
installed the harmonic balancer yesterday with the install tool from autozone...where i work lol...made sure to use just a drop of lube on the inside surface and sealed the keyway too. ran it all the way down till the tool wouldn't thread any more. once i pulled the tool out, there's still a whisker difference between the snout protrusion and the outer surface of the balancer...in other words its not perfectly flush. the whole install went fine, no hickups and i didn't want to force it any further either. spent too much darn money to get the motor this far...didn't want to booger it up. should i pull it off and try again? or would it matter that much aside from belt alignment? how flush should it be?
2nd-i am running a higher lift cam, installed the appropriate springs, studs and all that. bought the whole kit from comp...the only issue i'm thinking i'll have it the vertical clearance i'll need under the valve cover for the harland sharp rockers i plan on using. aside from the clifford cover, what are my options? i have a wirefeed 115v welder and can slice up a couple stockers if need be and get it that way, but i'm almost certain i've read some fellas using a stock-ish looking cover and it worked out fine for them. just asking anyone using the harland sharps to chime in on this one. would anyone have a minimal vertical measurement from the cover mounting surface on the head to the rocker at full lift? or to the underside of the top of the valve cover? i've been looking at the clifford, but that thing is pricey, and i enjoy building over buying...especially for my projects.
as always fellas...thanks for any and all input. its what makes this forum so great. happy motoring!
thanks Gembone...i'm headed to the j/y tomorrow for another stocker valve cover, then its time to slice and dice. gotta grab some manifold washers too for the EFIs and DP mani.
Just set your valve cover in place, no bolts installed, no gasket either, and hand turn the motor through a few revs to see if there's contact that shifts the valve cover. You could even put a light coat of graphite lube on the inside of the valve cover and then inspect that after a few spins for any signs of contact/rubbing.
Whiskers are your standard canine width lol. its a v belt setup. i'll be rocking the manual steering...so dual v belts on the balancer, alternator, and h2o pump. Ribbed daycos i'm thinking...maybe the siped napa brand belts. havent decided yet.
I think you are on the right track by making your own. I was discussing this issue a few weeks ago and F250Restorer set me straight; the Clifford cover or make your own. Below is a link to his reply..
I see a "tall" 6 cylinder valve cover advertised in eBay, but not sure it is tall enough.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Tall-Chrome-Steel-Valve-Cover-6-Cylinder-240-300-/251081357700?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1966%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item3a759d7984&vxp=mtr
That's all I know for now...
Steve in Flat Rock, MI
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