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Fuel filter change, oil change, and more

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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 10:47 PM
  #1  
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Fuel filter change, oil change, and more

Finally! got up the gumption to change all this stuff today. Did the fuel filters first. I was rather surprised at the ease of which the water drain plug came out with an allen wrench. No problem whatsoever. I think it's a steel plug, not brass. I had bought a fancy brass one with a large knurled end along with a hex socket in it. It also had some sort of little t-bar looking thing sticking out. Try as I might, that sucker would NOT go into the hole. Maybe it's not made for an '03?? I dunno..

After getting the filters changed, I changed the oil. Nothing unusual there, other than after I poured in the first gallon, I realized that I had one of those fancy can't remember whatcha call 'em..valves with a nipple for the drain to install. Guess I wait for another 5K miles and change it the messy way one more time! Oh, and thoughts about oil change intervals: I went around 6K miles. I will not go that long again. The oil was extremely dirty. Not sure if this is a trait from using the T6 or what, but the oil I had in it when I bought it was not nearly as dirty when I changed it.

Here are the old fuel filters. Pretty damn grungy!



I also found some bushings that are attached to some sort of links that attach to a large horseshoe shaped bar that attaches to the front differential. A couple of these bushings are shot.The ones on the differential are not very good,either. Are they easy to change? Do they come in a kit? Anyone have part numbers for these? We are going on a 6K mile trek in September towing a toyhauler and want this rig in good shape. So I m thinking these bushings are in need of replacement pronto!

Thanks for the help,eh?

Brad

 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 01:28 AM
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Hope your new fuel filters look different than the ones in the picture. Especially the large one from the HFCM.

The one you took out doesn't have the water block lining on it. It is a must have! Racor or Motorcraft there.

5000 miles is the preferred change duration.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 01:35 AM
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The HFCM filter I installed is massively different, so much that I had to run in the house, dig up my order and check the numbers. The new HFCM filter has sort of an extension coming out the end that gos into the housing that has another o ring on it. I was skeptical while screwing it in..I noticed the part numbers changed on the website (deiselfiltersonline). But all seems kosher now. We went for a 40 mile spin and it ran great. It sure likes the new oil and filters. I did the blue spring a while back, so should be good to go.

Except for those dastardly bushings..
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 01:53 AM
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Try this:

Torsion bar? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

I can't find a part number for those.

Someone else have an idea?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 02:14 AM
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Here is something interesting:

2004 F250 Sway Bar Bushing Replacement .: Articles

Not sure if these are the right ones:

Ford F250 Truck Sway Bar Link Kit - AM Autoparts


Maybe these in this list?

2003 ford f250 sway bar link | eBay
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 03:05 AM
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When you tried to install that drain fitting.
Did you try to screw the "T' part in or just push it?
The "T" has threads on it that hold it in
when you unscrew the drain so it will act as a drip point.
You also want a bit of fresh oil on all the "O" rings on and in
the filter and caps when you reinstall them. There is one small
"O"ring inside each filter. The oil makes it so you don't damage
them when you install. It is also good to wipe the housings seal surface
with a non-fiber cloth to remove dirt and grime.

Sean
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 04:38 AM
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I would recommend Energy Suspension parts.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
When you tried to install that drain fitting.
Did you try to screw the "T' part in or just push it?
The "T" has threads on it that hold it in
when you unscrew the drain so it will act as a drip point.
You also want a bit of fresh oil on all the "O" rings on and in
the filter and caps when you reinstall them. There is one small
"O"ring inside each filter. The oil makes it so you don't damage
them when you install. It is also good to wipe the housings seal surface
with a non-fiber cloth to remove dirt and grime.

Sean
aaaaahhhh..HA! Thanks for the tip on the drain fitting. I was a bit rushed and didn't even think of screwing the "t" in.

I did coat all o-rings with oil.

Oh, and I found those bushings at Energy Suspension Parts. 40 bucks for the whole set.

Thanks for all your responses,eh?

Brad
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by draboo

Oh, and I found those bushings at Energy Suspension Parts. 40 bucks for the whole set.

Thanks for all your responses,eh?

Brad
Good to hear!

And thanks Mark for the tip.


Sean
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 02:08 PM
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One more quick inquiry about the bushings:

Could these worn out bushings cause noise in the front end when hitting a bump?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 02:31 PM
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You betcha!
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 11:32 AM
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FYI, Energy Suspension used a FTE article for installation instructions. Someone complained about instructions that came with the parts weren't up to snuff, so ES linked to this article:

2004 F250 Sway Bar Bushing Replacement .: Articles GOOD JOB ON THE ARTICLE!

I'm excited aboot getting rid of that damn clunky noise and maybe gaining some front end stability. Sadly, my wife said "Not till the end of the month".
 
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 08:03 PM
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I talked her into it and installed the new bushings today. Man were the old ones ever shot! Especially the ones connecting the vertical links to the frame.

I found a bolt that loosely fit inside the old bushing hole. Then I slid a large nut over the bolt. Then put the bolt in the bushing and set the opposite end on a socket large enough to allow the bushing to slide out.(I think it was a 2/14")I had a friend hold the part steady,then I simply whacked it a few times with a 5 lb hammer. The old bushings came out rather easily, to my surprise! We did have a nice, heavy metal bench, which made for easy whackin'!

Anywayyy..the truck feels much more tight, doesn't "stagger" during quick corners and that annoying "clunk/rattle" is gone.


edit: when installing the bushings connecting to the front differential. I installed one side at a time, leaving the opposite side connected. It was much easier having to just lift one end up at a time instead having to deal with the whole bar, especially if you are doing it solo.
 
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