351 build
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351 build
first of thanks for all the help when i built my 302 a while ago but i should had listen to some of you guys when you said go with the 351W 
. so now i am going to build me a 351W. the block's # are E9AE i think im not sure. not at the house could somebody tell me if the block is roller or not i know it dosent have a roller cam. i was wanting to build a pretty mean 351 i heard you can use a 3.85 crank stock rods and .30 over 302 pistons and have a 393 stroker.
my plan is
3.85 crank
stock rods
302 pistons
performer intake
1406 edelbrock carb 600cfm
35-246-3 - Xtreme Energy
pro comp heads
i was hoping for a truck that could runs high 12's low 13's i am using the aod 2400 stall 4.10 gears by the way the truck is a 89 f150 longbed. also what is some opinion's on stroking the 351. thanks for the help
. so now i am going to build me a 351W. the block's # are E9AE i think im not sure. not at the house could somebody tell me if the block is roller or not i know it dosent have a roller cam. i was wanting to build a pretty mean 351 i heard you can use a 3.85 crank stock rods and .30 over 302 pistons and have a 393 stroker.my plan is
3.85 crank
stock rods
302 pistons
performer intake
1406 edelbrock carb 600cfm
35-246-3 - Xtreme Energy
pro comp heads
i was hoping for a truck that could runs high 12's low 13's i am using the aod 2400 stall 4.10 gears by the way the truck is a 89 f150 longbed. also what is some opinion's on stroking the 351. thanks for the help
Last edited by deve; Sep 25, 2011 at 10:37 PM. Reason: not finshed
Postmaster
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with that cam I would use an rpm or rpm air gap intake and a holly 750cfm or bigger and make sure you use a dish piston that will get you the proper compression. check into a balanced rotating assembly there are a bunch of then out there...
My 2 cents...
My 2 cents...
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I used that cam in a 302... had a great ideal but the valve train had a clatter to it that I could not figure out.. I checked and checked and checked everything ended up changing the cam because I could not stand the noise. Do a search on XE274 noise and if you find a link to Ford Muscle user 393Clevor that is me... I had bad valve guides do to valve geometry not be right I fixed that and still the noise would not go away.. a lot of people complain about that cam being noisey
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-...s-rockers.html
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-...s-rockers.html
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how noisy are we talking about only hearing it under the hood or the car next to you at a set of lights. are there any problems with using the 393 or should i go a different option none of my plans are written in stone yet. i was thinking about going with a 700 or 750 carb but then i thought that may be to much carb for the engine and it is a truck so i would want great throttle response
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I'm confused with your build... 2400 stall, tall gears... I wouldn't worry about throttle response...
very noisy like it had solids in it... but only above 2500 or so, some people never have a problem with it, some do.
very noisy like it had solids in it... but only above 2500 or so, some people never have a problem with it, some do.
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the truck will be daily driven but i drive very hard and spin the tires daily. i just dont want to have to lay down hard into the throttle if i want to get moving or spin the wheels. but me driving daily inst that much only 15-40 miles a day tops. i was thinking wouldn't the performer have even a lower power range now because the motor is stroked and need more air so would the rpm act more like a performer.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
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From: Bend,OR
what tranny will you be running?
you will have to get on the throttle for the stall to work so what your saying doesnt make much sense. i would keep the stock stall speed personally.
is this truck 2wd or 4wd?
you will have to get on the throttle for the stall to work so what your saying doesnt make much sense. i would keep the stock stall speed personally.
is this truck 2wd or 4wd?
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Your combo is going to be a beast for sure I would lose the edelbrock for a holley at least a 750VS or bigger and run a rpm or air gap... which heads were you thinking about? and take it from me a 2400 stall in a truck wont last long without a huge cooler with a fan. I cooked my 3000 stall in my 85 4x4 302 with that same cam.. way to much stall and cam for the weight in a street rig... anything below 2400 is slipping the converter and causing heat... you might want to tighten up the converter and run a smaller cam, it will still roast the tires trust me.. just go small on the intake ports...
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the truck is a 89f150 longbed 2wd aod tranny. the stall converter is a b&m 2400 locking so i figured overheating wasnt going to be a issue. lol well i already have the stall converter from my first motor build i built a 302 that had no low end at all so i bought the stall converter and the gears. i had never even got to install the converter. i had to sell the motor when i got married to buy rings. why go to Holley i had the Edelbrock on my first build and loved the carb.
the head i am going to choose from are
289 302 347 351w 5.0 Ford Procomp Aluminum Heads 190cc | eBay
289 302 347 351w 5.0 Ford Procomp Aluminum Heads 210cc | eBay
the head i am going to choose from are
289 302 347 351w 5.0 Ford Procomp Aluminum Heads 190cc | eBay
289 302 347 351w 5.0 Ford Procomp Aluminum Heads 210cc | eBay
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It's just what I like I can tune them in an hour or so.. plus they make more HP hands down.. at least in my world... I would go with the 190cc runners with your build.. leave the 210 for the high rpm HP motors... again thats just my 2 cents other may feel different.. the 190cc runners will have more low rpm velocity for better throttle response..
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I have to agree I built one, Ford Motor Sport wide ratio gear set hy rev governor kit bla bla bla non-lock up converter and shaft, manual shift kit $$$$$$$ didn't last very long but it was nice while it lasted ran 4.56 gears with a 4 speed automatic with 3000 stall was fun ... got the gear set for sale if your interested
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From: Earth
E9 isn't a roller block but you should take the time/spend the money to find one. Either that or pony up for some linked lifters. Especially with a stroker. The faster ramp helps a ton when you're gulping in 50 cubic inches of air per cylinder. Plus no worries with break in.
Can't remember the name but there's a bunch that sells an AOD they claim handles 600-800 pd/ft. With a converter for ~$2,000. Big chunk of change. May be cheaper than tow jobs and a couple of rebuilds in the long run if you're really going to be romping on it like you say.
Can't remember the name but there's a bunch that sells an AOD they claim handles 600-800 pd/ft. With a converter for ~$2,000. Big chunk of change. May be cheaper than tow jobs and a couple of rebuilds in the long run if you're really going to be romping on it like you say.
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TCI Auto 438905 - TCI Pro Super Transmission Overhaul Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com this was the tranny rebuild i was looking at getting but if the aod cant hold much power what tranny would you use. but i am still planning using the aod because of overdrive and i would not go with a manual automatics are the way
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Those ProComp heads don't work that well out of the box so this won't be a 500hp motor or anyhting.. more in the 350hp range but it will make boat loads of TQ.. your 302 is a 90lb weaking in comparison. If you want something that could be mistaken for fuel milage and a vehicle that will have recognizable street manners then I'm also gonna suggest a stock like lockup converter for the trans and a cam that is a bit milder than the one you posted, maybe the Comp 35-238-3 or 35-242-3. You also won't need a giant carb here either, something like a 650 vac secondary should do quite well and provide very fast throttle response.
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