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If it does it in the stock tune, it doesn't sound like a tuner issue. The 4r100 has some dynamic control over the shifts by varying the line pressure through the EPC. If the accumulator piston spring rates aren't right, then the fill rates of the accumulators will be off and cause you to have a slip with a bang at the end. It's easiest for me to think of how a manual clutch works, it would be like letting the clutch out slowly at first and then quickly at the end. You would get a "slide bump" it's probably worse at lighter throttle because the increased torque at higher throttle masks the bump you feel. I would talk to Brian and see what he says about the valve body, there are tweaks to the port sizes that should be possible to tune the shift.
Yea, if the tuner is set to stock it still does it, but does the stock setting on the tuner still have Jody's trans tweaks just with no extra power? Or is it completely stock on that setting? I might give Brian a call and ask him what he thinks. I have an email out to Jody, I'll see what he thinks when I hear from him.
I cleaned the tube and sensor about two years ago, didnt get much out of it if I recall. I will go out there and see if I still have the codes after driving all over today.
Thanks a lot for the replies and keep em coming if you think of anything else. Im really trying to pay attention to what the truck is doing so I can explain it better, as far as when it shifts the worst, when it shifts the best and what it does in each of the different tunes. I am pretty sure that the 60hp tow is the worst as far as late and hard shifting.
I'll let you know what the AE says if there is anything different.
I just went out and pulled the codes again and the P0500 is back. The other day when I changed out the VSS I got home and cleared that code, took the truck for a spin around the neighborhood and when I got back I pulled the codes again, but it wasn't there. I guess from driving around all day today it came back. FYI, when I changed the VSS on the pumpkin, I also removed, ohm tested, cleaned, and re-installed the TSS and OSS on the trans. They both tested good (~1400 ohms each).
I heard a bad speed sensor can cause the trans to shift like mine is, but other than the code coming up, Im not having any other symptoms of a bad speed sensor. My O/D light is not flashing, blinking or staying on, my ABS light is not on, and my speedometer works just fine.
I just did the front hub lube and new brakes, so I pulled the front ABS sensors out and cleaned them before I put them back in. Any thoughts on the P0500 code?
Is there any way to test the controller? I just changed out the sensor for the second time since Ive owned the truck ( the first time was two years ago when my ABS light was on, the new VSS fixed it). I kind of looked at the wiring under the truck and don't see any obvious issues, ie...chafing, cuts, corroded connections, etc....
Is there any way to test any of this stuff with the AE? Any live data tests that can be run while driving (would have my gf drive of course or data log it)?
I've read something about the tranny controller having to 'relearn' your driving pattern after battery disconnect. Could it by this 'memory' that keeps it shifting hard when in stock tune?
I've read something about the tranny controller having to 'relearn' your driving pattern after battery disconnect. Could it by this 'memory' that keeps it shifting hard when in stock tune?
No, that can't be it because the trans controller doesn't learn anything in a 4R100 behind a diesel. It does not have the learning software.
Ah, there's the man Ive been waiting for. (that didnt sound gay did it?
What do you think, Mr Kovalsky? Could the P0500 code cause these issues even though everything seems to be working as it should? I don't know how long I have had that code, I wouldn't think it has been there since I noticed the shifting issues, but to be honest, I have no idea.
Would changing the tire size from 31.8" or whatever it is to 33" make any difference other than truing up my speedo?
I havent heard back from Jody yet, I'll come back on and let everyone know what he says.
I will get under there and trace the wiring to see if I can find any issues. Are the front ABS sensors tied into that circuit, or are they seperate? Just want to know if I need to look at them also.
I just heard back from Jody. He said when the tuner is in the stock position, then it is completely stock, none of his trans tweeks are in the stock setting either, so he said I may need to re-drill the calibration plate that came with the BTS VB. He said the hole sizes that seem to work best are:
I replied asking if he knew which holes were which on the plate and that I would check them and re-drill if necessarry and let him know. I will also let you all know too. Hopefully this will fix it.