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OK. Timing gear replacement

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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 11:24 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by DeereTech05

Also, just thinking here, but I hope your crank gear is not screwed up also, might pay to see if your guy with the cam gear has one of those too. $50 for the cam gear, surely the crank gear will be cheap if he has it.
I was thinking the same thing. They might be a matched set. I think that was actually mentioned a bit earlier in this thread.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 10:33 AM
  #47  
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I will be ordering the other two tomorrow morning. Tried yesterday but they didn't work.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 08:46 PM
  #48  
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So, how do I get the oil pan off? I'm seems that it is glued on with some sort of indestructible caulking or something. I'm having a hell of a time.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 10:14 PM
  #49  
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Engine has to be out to pull the oil pan but if someone used air craft sealant it may be a PITA to get off.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 10:35 PM
  #50  
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If you are pulling the engine the easiest way to get the cam out is to flip the engine upside down and the lifters will drop out of the way. And of course have the engine upside down when putting cam back in.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 12:16 AM
  #51  
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So you need a new cam gear is what you mean.... hows it working out, did you get on yet? I got all kinds of left over parts from rebuilding my old cracked block....
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 08:19 AM
  #52  
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If you have an International Dealer close, you can try ordering it through them. Just make sure you have your engine serial number or they may not be able to get the exact part if there were changes through the different years. Most of there information is based on the build serial number, so it helps to have it when you go in.

Here is the parts from their catalog.

 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 08:33 AM
  #53  
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The front cover won't come off without removing the oil pan. The rest I have taken care of. I just cannot pop the pan off. It's killing me.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 08:41 AM
  #54  
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You will have to get under it with a scraper and cut the seal. Use small plastic or wood wedges to apply pressure as you get small areas open. You will be able to work the scraper around, just be careful to not damage the block or pan. This will be the best way to get the seal loose. As you get more wedge into it, the seal will eventually let go. Something else that you can try if this does not work is get dry-ice and pack it around the edge of the pan. The ice freezes the seal and it will break loose. You will need to have wedges under it to make that work though. I work on airplanes and have to do this bonded skins and panels.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 09:01 AM
  #55  
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I have wooden wedges. I am assuming that a carton utility knife will work? Given that the blade is thin and generally pretty sharp. *mine are dull been putting off changing them*
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 09:06 AM
  #56  
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Yes a utility knife blade will work. I also use them in a vice-grip style plier. Then I can use a hammer to tap the blade along the seal working 90 degrees to the pan. You can cut the seal pretty quickly then. Just keep it parallel to the block and pan so you do not gouge anything important.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 02:48 PM
  #57  
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And it's off. Crank gear looks in good condition.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 02:52 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by mongo75
So you need a new cam gear is what you mean.... hows it working out, did you get on yet? I got all kinds of left over parts from rebuilding my old cracked block....
Have the gears, all three? I may need em sent overnight if this guy doesn't return my call. Gotta have it running by first rifle season or I am screwed.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 02:57 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by PJ-Hunter
And it's off. Crank gear looks in good condition.
Good deal!
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 04:08 PM
  #60  
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Now the RTV cleanup begins, That stuff is a pain to clean.
 
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