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5.4L Cylinder Block Opening Cover?

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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 01:11 PM
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5.4L Cylinder Block Opening Cover?

I can't find a listing anywhere and Ford is no help at all... They've never heard of such a thing. It covers the large hole on the driver side rear of the block. Here it is, plainly listed in their own factory service manual... in the steps to remove the engine (unfortunately no part numbers).



Has anyone else been able to find one, or maybe have a part number for it? It's probably one of those things that the mechanic takes off and throws out...
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 01:31 AM
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sounds like a great salvage yard part to me, easy to pull and costs just under a buck!! or when you find it from ford it will be 75.00
 
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 65F1005.8
sounds like a great salvage yard part to me, easy to pull and costs just under a buck!! or when you find it from ford it will be 75.00
Just as a follow up for anyone looking to replace theirs as well, the Ford part number is:

F65Z-6C070-AB - "Cover"

Actually picked it up for $4.41... Is it just me or has Ford's parts prices actually dropped? I needed a dipstick tube at the same time and they charged me $19.16 which I thought was reasonable.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 02:48 AM
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some stuff is reasonable but i needed a engine "oil cooler" which circulates the coolant through the oil to heat it up and it was 189 before my shop discount and then it was 165 picked up at the warehouse with no dealership markup.

glad to hear you got it fixed up.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 65F1005.8
some stuff is reasonable but i needed a engine "oil cooler" which circulates the coolant through the oil to heat it up and it was 189 before my shop discount and then it was 165 picked up at the warehouse with no dealership markup.

glad to hear you got it fixed up.
Wow, I looked everywhere for one of those (needed one too) and ~$350 was the best price I found.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 10:29 AM
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i tried to eliminate minw but ended up going ahead and running it becuase after some research almost every modular had one and i decided there was a reason for than.

although my freakin oil pan feels like an exhaust pipe.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 65F1005.8
i tried to eliminate minw but ended up going ahead and running it becuase after some research almost every modular had one and i decided there was a reason for than.

although my freakin oil pan feels like an exhaust pipe.
I ended up eliminating mine because I couldn't justify paying $350 to replace it. Junkyards all wanted ~$125 (when I found a yard that knew what I was talking about). It doesn't make a whole lot of sense to cool or heat the engine oil with the coolant. Seems to me the oil would warm to operating temperature faster on start up by itself, and cooling engine oil with 190-200 degree coolant doesnt seem very beneficial. Not to mention the trouble it can cause if the cooler were to spring a leak.

I salvaged the end of the bolt that went through the cooler, and "machined" it down. Attached an oil cooler sandwich (for the engine oil cooler) and a remote adapter to keep my factory Off-Road package remote mount. The cooler you run, the longer the oil and subsequently the engine lasts.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 11:11 PM
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I am starting to remove my 5.4L and I am guessing this is the cover that the haynes manual refers to with E4OD equipped trucks? Did you have to remove the header panel or is just removing the radiator enough to get the engine out? I know the book says it is but it is hard to believe when you see how far the engine sits under the cab.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by galaxie641
I am starting to remove my 5.4L and I am guessing this is the cover that the haynes manual refers to with E4OD equipped trucks? Did you have to remove the header panel or is just removing the radiator enough to get the engine out? I know the book says it is but it is hard to believe when you see how far the engine sits under the cab.
If you have a 4x4 truck, good luck getting the converter nuts out from that cover... just rotate the engine and get at them (x4) from the service cover under the truck. 2WD might be easier, I don't have personal experience.

You don't even have to pull the hood off. Remove the cowl plastic, and the wipers and loosen the plastic that covers the cowl, remove your hood struts at the fender and let dangle... get a nice piece of wood and prop the hood almost straight up and secure.




I had a good inch/two inches between the front of the engine and the condenser and about the same where the firewall hooks over everything. I wish they'd moved everything in these truck about 6 inches forward, it'd be so much easier on the back...



It helps (at least for me) to shift the engine over about 2"-4" over to the passenger side of the engine bay to clear the P/S reservoir and also the steering shaft.

A piece of plywood or something would be a good idea to shield the condenser from damage. I didn't and was okay, but I had help moving the engine hoist back while I guided the engine out.
 
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