Another no start
2004 6.0 PSD, CC, 4x4 Auto
NO MODS WHATSOEVER
142k miles
Have owned since March, without so much as a hiccup. Purchased w/ bad vacuum pump, grimed up hubs, and a disconnect passenger mirror; but once those were fixed and out of the way, she's been a CHAMP. Driven at least 2-3 times a week, varying conditions from no load to 8k trailer, light to heavy throttle.
Being new to diesels, there were things that were different, the only one that sticks out being the seeming low power on startup/cold operations. Researching on here, that doesn't seem to be a "problem" so much as the nature of diesel engines in general.
However, several nights ago after driving, with NO noticeable problems, we parked the truck in its usual spot. 2 days later, the wife went out to drive it and it wouldn't start for her. She called me, suggesting a battery issue due to some corrosion buildup on one of the battery terminals.
Upon arriving home, it became obvious the battery had nothing to do with it. All electronics powered up inside, and the truck turns over strongly. But I'm apparently getting no fuel. The base oil pressure DOES come up after extended cranking. I have spent the last few days poring over all the threads on here for no start conditions. I've checked grounds, wiggled the chafe points (didn't see any visible issues), done the FICM tests (48 V STRONG at all times), and pulled the ICP plug.
The ICP is where I'm hung up. After reading multiple threads, it seems there is NOT a consensus as to what disconnecting the ICP should get you. Some posts say it will tell the computer to ignore it, and bypass the 500# requirement and start the truck if it does indeed have the fuel pressure. Others say disconnecting it permanently disables the start feature. I know there are different arrangements of the equipment (which I discovered when failing miserably to find the ICP on my first attempt). My arrangement is with the ICP in the passenger's valve cover, and the 4 screw FICM. So, if I disconnect the ICP, does this bypass the 500# requirement?
In addition, I DID find some fuel/oil on the plug side of the ICP. Does this automatically mean I have a bad one? If so, is it recommended to replace it with a factory one, and the connector, or would an Autozone aftermarket do?
On scan tools (which I currently do not have), what is a relatively cheap one that will do what is required for this truck?
I'm also reluctant to strip wires to do the voltage test on the ICP. It seems to me that once you have the FICM tested, you've effectively narrowed it down to the HP oil system: an injector, a pump, a leak, or the regulator/sensor combo not working properly. A low voltage on the ICP wouldn't differentiate these.
So I'm down to needing to plug something into the test port, and go deeper into procedures involving removing filters, etc. I would like to know if anyone has any handy information on the fitting and gauge requirements to measure 2k+ psi on that outlet??
What really bugs me about this is the suddenness of what happened. It didn't fail on me driving, or give any hint whatsoever that it was going to have an issue. Generally, to me, that points to something electrical, as mechanical failure "usually" have some sort of omen prior to catastrophic failure (or at least announce their deaths!) The only "strange" indication I have, besides the fact that she doesn't fire over on the 3rd revolution (as she has like clockwork since I bought her) is a "whoosh" that I've never noticed before about a second after I stop cranking. But, it's never not started for me before, so I've never had the chance to hear what it would do!
Tips, hints, comments, suggestions, and outright derogatory flaming all welcome!
Jon
ps sorry for the book....
Your next step is surely some way of scanning the truck with a scanner that will give you data. Some auto parts stores will rent them to you, but not sure what their capabilities are.
Having some fuel/oil in the doesn't automatically mean the ICP is bad, and if it is I would stick with Ford for it. Some people use aftermarket with no problems, but I've heard horror stories too. But it's good for some.
Pulling the ICP sensor will cause the PCM to assume you have 500# OIL pressure from the HPOP (high pressure oil pump) and will allow the truck to start IF you have sufficient high pressure oil pressure.
If you have much oil on the connector, I would replace it. It will ONLY get worse and could result in future problems if you don't already have problems. I have not heard of many of the '04.25 and up model years needing the connector replaced, but I assume it happens.
Do yourself a favor and load test the batteries (individually). They BOTH need to be good or you will risk damaging the FICM.
You can get leads that "poke" through the wire's insulation to check the voltage - it doesn't necessarily require stripping the wires (although if you are changing the connector, then no matter). I would encourage you to get this reading as the next step in troubleshooting.
Also - THANK YOU for doing so much reading and troubleshooting before posting. Doesn't happen that way too often!
I was really hoping for an electrical problem, one of the chafing issues. However, it appears that without the ICP interfering with the start, it would try and fire up if it actually had the pressure. This makes me lean towards the IPR or HPOP, or both. I'll be diving into it more this weekend.
Jon
I was really hoping for an electrical problem, one of the chafing issues. However, it appears that without the ICP interfering with the start, it would try and fire up if it actually had the pressure. This makes me lean towards the IPR or HPOP, or both. I'll be diving into it more this weekend.
Jon
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I have not gotten it to start, even with ICP unplugged. There was a little bit of fuel/oil in the ICP... I would say 3-4 big "droplets" worth. Looked at Autoenguinity.... yowsa that's a price tag!
Jon
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That is the "consensus" here as to what to do.
2. If you do have a fuel heater, (and it is only having trouble with cold, not hot starts) try disconnecting it at the VFCM.
I haven't pulled codes yet because I don't have a reader. If only it were a GM, I have HPtuners... I'm getting turnover, so I know it's not a shift lever, or battery voltage. It turns over quite well! I gaurantee it's seeing 100rpm. That takes care of 1-8. The FICM relay I swapped with a known good relay... no difference whatsover. There is no aftermarket start/alarm/etc, so no issues there. I went through all the fuses, no issues (including the one in the engine bay), looked for chafing but haven't done a COMPLETE inspection - no issues there. Haven't pulled fuel oil filters yet, that will be this weekend. Getting LP oil pressure registering on dash after a few cranks, so LP oilsystem good. FICM was tested IAW procedures listed, came out just fine (very strong 48V at all conditions).
I'd like to get an adapter for the ICP port and a guage, but have no idea where to go to get such a setup. I'll most likely be ordering an ICP since I found oil in it, but as it didn't change anything to attempt to start with it unplugged, I doubt seriously it's my problem. I have no idea what the KOEO test is yet, will be looking into that, filtration, HP system, and monkeying with harnesses this weekend.
Jon
Last edited by Jonota; Sep 28, 2010 at 12:52 PM. Reason: I'm an idiot
P0122
That's it. Nothing else....
Now, I haven't been able to search much. Either the site hates me or my Wildblue crappy internet is making the search results come up blank, or sign in again before EVERY PAGE.
Haven't been able to see if it's any different than the generic P0122, which is a TPS circuit issue?? I did hit the pedal a few times while trying to crank, could that do it?
Curiouser still, I DID unplug the ICP. Shouldn't that gaurantee me a low ICP DTC?
Wondering if all that is good, maybe I just literally don't have FUEL.... will be pulling filters later to do those tests.
Any input on weird DTC?
Jon
That is a critical failure if it is real.
Try a computer reset and see if it clears it.
If not... look there for a fault.
Wiggle the connector at the throttle, remove it, grease / clean it, and reset the computer again.











