Did you try and as dumb as this is going to sound wiggle the main wiring harness that runs next to the inner fender on the drivers side. If you can wiggle it and have someone else crank the truck over. I had the same problem a few times, had it towed to a dealer and when they would go to work on it it would start fine. finally fidured it out and had the harness replaced. have had no problems since then. the harness is about an inch arcoss. hope this helps

 

Update ... again:
Hooked up the AE
System tests:
KOEO test gave a P1000 error, something about OBD system not ready? Not sure what that means
did KAM reset, completed sat
Injector buzz test, completed sat (8 buzzes)
Diagnostic code showed P2291 (which the other scanner did NOT show), for injector control pressure too low.
ICP on crank showed .54 V, 280psi ... much too low.
Watched IPR demand... went IMMEDIATELY to 84.77 and stayed during crank. tried to command 100%, went to 10 % and stayed???
Next step is as I figured, will be pulling the IPR to take a look.

P - I wiggled the wire and tried.... still nothing. Imagining I have either an electrical problem related to the IPR or something stuck/jammed in the IPR preventing it from closing.

Jon

 

Some fun! FICM out (yeah.. THOSE connectors were easy.... NOT), now to remove the IPR. Wondering, after playing with the connectors, if I should hook it all back up and see if it's the IPR harness.... which felt pretty stiff.

P.S. Anyone with the experience wanna tell me the easy way to get the IPR out? I don't have the specialty tool... what size socket would I need to make one, or what size wrench/ford wrench would I need (I know I've seen it somewhere.... will search later).

Jon

 

What year 6.0 are you dealing with? I forget. But if the no start has to do with the FICM you might be able to take it to a deal and it be covered under FORD. They will either replace the whole thing or just replace the connections. Just another option if you cant/dont wanna do it yourself. and they might even cover the bill. let me know if that helps you out any.

 

P- It's a 2004.25 6.0, or the 04 - newer style. IPR in back, ICP on passenger valve cover. I don't think it's the FICM, as doing the test got me all good numbers... I suspect IPR harness or IPR. Going to quick plug in the FICM w/out fully installing since I've been handling all the wires back there..... see if that gives me an attempted start.

I was thinking (for anyone following this thread you know I do a whole lot of thinking, and not so much doing). It would be EXTREMELY convenient (and CHEAP) for Ford to build an IPR diagnostic tool that was simply an IPR shaped relief valve at 1020psi. They could slip it in in place o fthe IPR, and try and start the truck. Small single setting single action relief valves should be darn cheap (I work around similar components).

Jon

 

Starting to worry I screwed up....

Bought an IPR on ebay last night, price was $103 shipped. Remembering now that when I was looking on normal sites (dieselsite, etc), the price was more like $250.... hoping I didn't get ripped. Anyone else buy their IPR off ebay?

Second, I read up on removal methods. I like the 1 1/8" crows foot w/extension and ratchet idea - what's the best place to find one of those? Has anyone done this AND tried the socket method? Does the deep Sears socket NOT have to have the section in the side cut out, like the "special" ford tool?

Jon

 

HELP!

Got the IPR removed. Went to inspect screen for damage - NO SCREEN. The end has detached itself, and is still inside the HPOP cover. Not sure how I should proceed: screwdriver? needlenose? Anyone else have this happen?

Eager to get truck back on road...


Jon

 

turn the truck over and watch for it to pop out....

 

also Janota you mentioned you had fuel pressure problems. I had a similar issue with a no start on my 04 6.0. I was driving back home and one block away i began to sputter and have no effect from pressing the throttle pedal. I opened the fuel filter on top of the motor and found 1/4 " of fuel in the bowl. I keyed the engine on and ran around and looked in the bowl and I got no more fuel in the bowl but did get bubbles bubbles bubbles. I had recently changed both fuel filters so I dropped the tank and found at the pickup tube there was what appeared to be some sheared off rubber. what happened was the in tank suction cone filter had broken off and would not suck fuel past 1/8 tank. When I did replace this part, $29 at my dealer, I put it on and fought for 2 hrs to screw the tank sending unit "pickle jar nut" back on I keyed the engine on again and carefully cracked the cap on the filter on top of the engine letting off air. I keyed on again until i got straight fuel. A series of 3 four second cranks and the truck was off and running again. Verify your fuel bowl is filling..... i can barely hear the fuel pump running on my truck and i have never heard the fuel bowl fill on key on, that may be the injectors buzzing.

 

GLF-

I like the turn it over idea.... that will make sure I don't shove/break it into some other area it shouldn't go. I can see it in there w/ my inspection mirror. It seems to be intact, which surprised me. My other idea was a magnetic screwdriver tip.

I don't think I had fuel pressure problem, just that when I took off the filters, they were HORRIBLE... seems to be just fine after a filter change.

Will post back up after I get the screen out tomorrow... hoping to have her back shortly after that.

Jon

 

Best of luck Janota. I did run and ICP test to verify my oil pressure because I cant afford AE, but I do have an Actron 9575 that I use on my other vehicles. I found it will read the codes on my truck but not erase them, strange...even though my truck is running now and has been for a few days since the in tank issue I cant erase a 2285 ICP low code. I did pull the ICP harness off the sensor on the passenger valve cover and strip back about 2" of insulation from some 22ga wire and take one strand and put in all three holes..wrapped it with electrical tape and plugged it back into the icp. I took my Digital Multi meter and and alligator clamped it to location 1 and 3 on the icp ( looking into the connector with the clip on top its 2 then 1 left to right and 3 on bottom) and I keyed on and got .2 v normal....on 2 seconds cranking ran up to 1.2 v which correlates with 800 or so psi. Thank God I didnt have to pull IPR... looks like a real PIA but I did help a buddy replace and IPR once and the screen came off and we cranked and looked and it popped out and rolled... I think if you took 18" thick copper wire like 8 ga romex and flattened it out with a hammer and bent the end 1/8" you could probably carefully fish it out if it came to that...

 

Success!!

Truck is purring again... all I have left to do is bleed the coolant back in. Hindsight tells me the WORST part that I had dealing with this was getting the electrical connector back on to the IPR... good GRIEF!

Started better than ever once I was all hooked back up. No roughness on the start at all... must have been the fuel filters being all jacked up!

Will be going through the truck over the next few weekends, and of course doing plenty of research. Thanks to all who chimed in and provided me some guidance. I sincerely appreciate it!!

Jon