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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 04:49 PM
  #16  
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I have OBDCOM scanner for my laptop that a buddy let me borrow. It originally reported the code. I cleared it using it's function, turned the key off for 30 seconds, back on and read codes again. All gone, tried to turn the truck over again, with same results as before.

Jon
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 04:52 PM
  #17  
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Do the reset properly.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 05:46 PM
  #18  
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That would be how?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 05:55 PM
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Look in signature link.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 05:13 PM
  #20  
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Update:

Did "correct" reset procedure: no change
Pulled secondary fuel filter: looks HORRIBLE. Was told all fluids/filters changed when purchased... about 3000 miles ago. Filter is brown/black, twisted/crushed. Can only imagine what HFCM filter looks like!

Also, I hit a guinea fowl not that long ago, didn't realize the hit was EXACTLY same location as air intake: air filter was coated with guinea feathers. Have driven about 800 miles since then... so I don't think that will effect anything, and the air filter d/p was fine.

Won't be putting back together til I can grab some new filters.

Jon
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 05:21 PM
  #21  
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That is real bad news re small filter --- because a lot of crud is almost certain to be in the fuel system.

Good luck.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 05:41 PM
  #22  
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Hope you do not take this the wrong way .........

This type of thread is why I did the "No-Start" checklist. I know that it is down a ways on the list, but steps #17 and #18 talk about fuel. Step 17 is to change the fuel filters. I know you said you were told that they had been changed recently, but what about bad fuel? You can get a tank of that at anytime. Also, a friend of mine had sand poured into his fuel tank.

Hopefully you do not have injector damage, but a twisted fuel filter means that it took a lot of pressure drop across it (as well as possibly by-passing contaminants).
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 06:10 PM
  #23  
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Bismic's fault charts are the best in the business, next to Ford's own...

But Ford need IDS to work it.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #24  
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Not taking anything badly... I appreciate any input someone gives me. As I've said, I started with the No-start checklist, and was checking filters as part of the list and the test to see how fast they fill. The checklist is awesome, has links to lots of other information (including a rudamentary breakdown of the systems) so I understand a lot more of what's going on.

Will be picking up a new filter set tomorrow morning, along w/ a new air filter, and putting it all back together.... here's hoping, although I doubt that will fix it. Next will be piercing the ICP harness for a reading there - assuming it reads low going after the IPR next... yeah!

Jon
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 07:31 PM
  #25  
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Ask if there is a way you can purge the crud that must have got past the small filter and is now in the injection system.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 07:38 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Jonota
Not taking anything badly... I appreciate any input someone gives me. As I've said, I started with the No-start checklist, and was checking filters as part of the list and the test to see how fast they fill. The checklist is awesome, has links to lots of other information (including a rudamentary breakdown of the systems) so I understand a lot more of what's going on.

Will be picking up a new filter set tomorrow morning, along w/ a new air filter, and putting it all back together.... here's hoping, although I doubt that will fix it. Next will be piercing the ICP harness for a reading there - assuming it reads low going after the IPR next... yeah!

Jon
As I said before, I compliment you for the amount of work you are doing yourself. Many times people get tired of the troubleshooting and want answers quick. It is just not easy sometimes w/ this engine. Hang in there!
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 04:18 PM
  #27  
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Update for anyone following (and giggling) along..

Replaced both fuel filters and the air filter... no change... although I can hear the HFCM/pump much better now !

On to HP oil testing....

Jon
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 08:04 PM
  #28  
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Just wanted to wish you luck. Have had a no start problem twice with mine. Luckily, after multiple attempts at starting, it finally started and ran fine for 3 weeks till it did it again 2 days ago. I'm sure I'll be screwed when it just won't restart.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 11:11 PM
  #29  
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Not being a smarty but where is your fuel guage laying at? I had a problem when I first bought my truck that when the fuel guage would get around 1/4 tank it would act like it had no fuel, shut off, and refuse to start back up.

I went through the no start procedure and kept scratchin my head dreading that it was the HPOP. I knew that their was fuel in the tank so I didn't think it was that until I dropped the tank and found that on the bottom of the fuel supply tube, on the rubber boot that holds the screen there is a small plastic bright orange valve about two inches from the bottom of the tank that had fallen out and was allowing my truck to suck air instead of fuel out of the tank. I figured the purpose of the valve was to allow the truck to get fuel even if the screen was clogged. I plugged it with a vacuum hose plug and haven't had a problem since. I wrote a thread complete with pics and instructions, but can't remember what I named it. I still have the pics in my gallery.

An easy way to test if this is it would be to add a 5 gallon can of diesel, enough to cover that opening and try starting it again. Just a thought.

Found it! https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...d-for-3-a.html
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 07:42 PM
  #30  
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Hubler- I didn't get a notification of your post.... but the fuel gauge reads just over 3/4... and I changed both fuel filters and could hear it clearly fill back up.

Got the AE w/ford expansion in the mail today. Intend run the available diagnostics IAW w/ the no-start procedure. Any more specific paths anyone recommends?

Jon
 
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