Sorry for my ignorance, but what will the schrader valve do in this case?

Thanks,
Drake

 

Sorry, a Schrader valve is kinda like a valve stem on your tire, just a different application. I know it's common on HVAC systems. What I was going to do was put the valve in the front of the regulator, teed in with a fuel pressure sensor. Then I'd monitor the fuel pressure inside with a gauge and use the Schrader valve to install a gauge ONLY when I need to adjust the regulator. That way, the gauge would only be on there when I'm tweaking things and it should eliminate my mechanical gauge problems for the time being.

 

Can't you just remote mount the gauge? Vibration is killing it right? Hose from regulator to gauge, gauge mounted underhood on rubber isolators. Wouldn't that work?

 

Probably would... if it was an OBS, I might do it. I just want to try to keep the plumbing and mess to a minimum. Just me, though... might try it.

 

Why would it only work on an OBS truck. I've had a remote gauge on my psd sd a number of times. Just need the adaptor for the fuel bowl port to screw in an npt to it.

 

Oh, I didn't mean it would only work on an OBS, there's just a good deal more wiring and plumbing on my SD than there was on the OBS I worked on. I just wanted to try to keep the clutter down is all. That would work either way...

 

I have been running a liquid filled gauge on a remote mounting strap which is bolted to my alternator, and the hose runs to the fuel bowl. Four years of operation, which is roughly 80,000 miles, and no leaking or gauge failure yet. The guage I used is the same $20 gauge from ITP which someone else referred to above. Picture of it in my gallery, linked below.

2002 Ford F250 4x2 - Under Hood Fuel Pressure Gauge

 

What gauge? I do believe you get what you pay for... I only spent $17 on mine.

 

Answered above... the same $20 gauge from ITP that someone else referred to.

I expect that it is the rubber hose which dampens the fluid-induced vibration and helps promote gauge life.

 

I see... probably right.

 

One thing I noticed and it is a problem on my 99', which hasn't ran for a month. You should have wide rubber orings on your fuel lines entering the fuel filter sump, mine are very deteriorated and from your photos yours a gone. They are supposed to make a compression type fit and prevent air entering the system. When filling the fuel filter sump without the cap on or filter in, I could watch air bubbles entering the filter sump. I beleive I have either ruined the end injectors or have it air locked. It ran fine when parked, next morning it ran terrible for a couple minutes, before dying. I've just about eliminated everything else. It isn't too expensive, but there is a kit I plan to buy called the Fuel Rail Crossover Kit......very simple. I won't list the seller because I don't think I'm allowed to, but you can pm me.

 

You're right and I actually rebuilt the fuel bowl and re-O-ringed the whole engine about 6 months later. Thanks for pointing that out, though... as to the no-start, you might could start a thread and list your symptoms and what you've done thus far.

 

We name drop all the time here. One of the sellers that has a fuel rail crossover kit is a big sponcer of his forum. Check him out first is my suggestion. (hint...it's riffraff but I won't name any names)
The e99 you'll have to grind some on your up-pipe y some so the fitting will sneak in there, but late 99+ has no issue as is. Very nice kit though. No cutting nessisary.

 

Yeah, it sucks on an e99... I wound up rounding the corners off on my 45* to clear since I didn't have what I needed work the collector flange over.

 

Well, the regulator took a dump on me... I was tweaking it the other day and the housing stripped out. Plus, I mentioned I'd been having gauge issues so I figured it's time to redo some of it. I had done a fuel bowl delete with an electric pump on an OBS and had used some stuff on that truck that I liked so I decided to do some work to mine. I bought myself an Aeromotive regulator and a Russel pressure gauge and then various fittings to put it together. The way it was set up was stock passenger side rear supply line, 1/4" hose left supply line, and 3/8" hose return lines up front. Reason for the 3/8" was because the regulator I had came with 6AN ORB's... 6AN is 3/8" and I couldn't get any 90's that would go from 6AN to 1/4". Since my new regulator didn't have ORB's, I could pick out what I needed to make it like I wanted. I'd need more 3/8" line to do the project and I had planty of 1/4" left over. Plus, I didn't need 3/8" for the two return lines so I decided on 1/4" (4AN) for the two return lines. For the ORB's, I used two 6AN ORB to 4AN fittings for the inlet ports and one 6AN ORB to 6AN fitting for the outlet port. I had to put new barbs in the front of the heads... I also changed out a 90* 1/8"NPT to 1/4" barb fitting I had on the supply line. I didn't like the nipple on the 90* because it was short. The straight 1/4" barbs I used before were nice and had more real estate to bite on (pictures will show this) so I got a 90* 1/8"NPT M to F and then put the straight barb on that. For the regulator, I wanted to change the way it was mounted. Where the other one was got in the way of removing the filter. Plus, I thought it looked bad. I've seen several kits use the alternator bolts and a custom bracket to mount it. So, I made my own... just a piece of 1" strap that I bent. Not a machined look but I think it works. It's not really stout, but I'm thinking it might absorb some of the vibrations. For the tank return, I didn't change much... I did bend the stock return line some (pictures will show this as well) so that the hose would work better. The hose ends I used were 45* and 90* 4AN to 1/4" barb fittings for the regulator inlets and a 90* 6AN to 3/8" barb fitting for the regulator outlet and I ran the hose over the stock return line. Now for some pictures:

Fittings to change out with hoses pulled (passenger's side):


Fittings pulled:


The straight 1/4" barb (1/8"NPT threads) I used on the rear that I liked:


The old 90* and the new assy... you can see why I prefer the new barb:


The assy. installed:




Hoses on:


Driver's side 3/8" barb to change out:


Fitting out:


New 1/4" barb in:


Hose on:


New regulator, gauge, and bracket (not the pressure I run... just testing):




Installed (note stock steel return line orientation):


And a few shots of the finished result with hose ends installed:








Return line shots:




Overall, I'm really happy with the finished product. It looks much better and other than not being braided lines with all AN fittings, it's pretty close to how I'd do it if I had the money. The regulator is MUCH better built and the gauge is also noticeably better. The gauge's readings don't vary as much as the other gauge did. The other gauge would read less as it got warmer. So yeah, other than swapping the hose clamps to the "other kinds" (pictures later), I think I'll be able to leave it alone for awhile. Let me know if I've left anything out... I bought the regulator off eBay and the fittings and gauge from Summit.