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Getting ready to start conversion, Am I forgetting anything?

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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 09:29 PM
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Getting ready to start conversion, Am I forgetting anything?

Got my Clifford intake, Edelbrock AVS 500cfm carb, EFI manifolds, gaskets, mufflers and new air cleaner all ready. Going to order some mandrel bends to fab the exhaust downpipes.

Planning to omit all the vacuum lines, except the distributor advance. Should this be a full vac port hook up, or timed? Seeing as I have no other power accessories, I shouldn't need any other vacuum lines, correct?

Do I need to do anything to the distributor (stock DSII setup) to compensate for the smog equipment removal?

Want to go with a heated spacer for my carb warming needs, as the manifold doesn't have any provisions for coolant to be routed to the bottom. Where did you guys get your spacers? Ebay, junkyard? What donor vehicle?

Anything else I'm missing here? THANKS!
 
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 09:59 PM
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On my old truck, my vacuum advance was hooked to the front metering block of the holley. I also had PCV and the brake booster hooked to the vacuum tree on the manifold. Here's an ok pic:
 
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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Mr. Gasket #260, factory washers ground down on one side for in/ex, carb linkage, cable, ball connect for accerator, muffler hangers.

Ebay for the spacer. IIRC, they come off a 60's Galaxie. Search for Autolite 4100, and sometimes there will be one there.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 10:02 AM
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The biggest and easiest thing to forget when doing the conversion is that the stock accelerator linkage won't work. The stock bracket bolts to the stock intake, so it's useless without it. You'll need to come up with a bracket for the accelerator cable.

Isn't the big plus about the Clifford intake the fact that it HAS heat provisions build into it? The spacers are generally from late 60s 4bbl Ford Galaxies. There's usually one on Ebay from time to time.

Here's one now:

FORD 1968 Mustang TORINO FAIRLANE GT 4BL Carb SPACER: eBay Motors (item 180559530615 end time Oct-10-10 20:41:08 PDT)

Just be sure to block off the open space that sticks out to the side.

 
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 11:53 AM
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I forgot to mention that to benefit the most from your mods., you need to port that head. That is the bottle neck of the 300. If you port match to the intake and exhaust, clean the exhaust runner, and the intake, but leave in. a bit rough, clean the bowls, take out any hinderance to flow, and do a 30 degree back cut on the intakes, along with a three angle v. job, you'll be amazed at the difference in performance. There are many vids online about how to port.

Of course a cam and kit would be nice too.
Side gapping the plugs will give you a boost as well.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
I forgot to mention that to benefit the most from your mods., you need to port that head. That is the bottle neck of the 300. If you port match to the intake and exhaust, clean the exhaust runner, and the intake, but leave in. a bit rough, clean the bowls, take out any hinderance to flow, and do a 30 degree back cut on the intakes, along with a three angle v. job, you'll be amazed at the difference in performance. There are many vids online about how to port.

Of course a cam and kit would be nice too.
Side gapping the plugs will give you a boost as well.

Ok , guess I'm ignorant........... whats side gapping the plugs?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 12:22 PM
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It is when one puts each plug in a vise and carefully uses a dremel to cut off the part of the plug that one usually adjusts when gapping them. About 1/4" is removed, so that the end of the adjusting tap no longer crosses over the top of the electrode, but stops at leading edge. One then gaps them like that (the guys are reporting a gap of about 50). The purpose is to allow a fuller spark coming nearly straight out of the plug, buring more of the mix.

Guys say the difference is like a kick in the pants. There is a great thread on just that over on Fordsixperformance forum.

You might want to check out gofast4less.com, and use his system for a great, inexpensive high energy ignition system.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 02:03 PM
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I would love to port/polish my head and install a hot cam, but this is my daily driver, so I can't have it down for too long. Plus I'm quite low on funds at the moment, and replacing my entire valvetrain isn't quite what I have in mind just yet.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 02:42 PM
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Use the Chebby rockers for a 250. It's a bolt in deal, and gives you a bit more lift w/o pulling the cam.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 05:31 PM
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Thanks for the tip, stock replacement rockers for the 250 will do, or should I go aftermarket?

What is the deal on the distributor? Is a re-curve necessary, and should the advance be full or timed vacuum? The Edelbrock carb has a port for each, and specifies in the instructions to find out which port is necessary.
Thanks!
 
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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OEM. Any autoparts and get the rockers for a (IIRC) 75 C-10 P/U with a 250 inline. It should cost about $50. Ported vacuum. You just need to have the dizzy recurved, which means changing the springs.


Use the forum search function to read up how-tos on all of this.

ck the forum at classicinlines.com. Most of this is covered in the FAQ section. Cheers.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer

You might want to check out gofast4less.com, and use his system for a great, inexpensive high energy ignition system.
I respectfully disagree as to the benefit of the GM module swap. It deletes the "retard on start" feature of the DS II ignition, and marries you to the TFI coil. If you want a high energy ignition, look at the DS II; it has everything you need, and is bone stock. No need to cobble the wiring or fab a heat sink.
That's not to say the GM module won't work; it will. But I don't agree that it's better, or that it provides any benifit to a daily driven truck.
 
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